280 blower switch

G

gsmallwood

Member
Jul 14, 2009
200
Gainesville, Ga.
Boat Info
2002 Boston Whaler 13 sport 40hp
2021 Yamaha VX Crusier
2021 Yamaha VX Deluxe
Engines
Boatless
Went to the boat tonight, turned on blower and when I went to turn it off it would not. It acts like its trying but when you release button it comes back on. It's like the switch is stuck in on position. Can you replace just blower switch at the helm?
 
If its a rocker switch, then yes. It's probably a carling. There should be an alpha-numeric code on the side of it. Something like VEDA1. Get that and match it up. Simple.
 
magstang1 said:
If its a rocker switch, then yes. It's probably a carling. There should be an alpha-numeric code on the side of it. Something like VEDA1. Get that and match it up. Simple.
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It's not. Its an integrated EIM control pad manufactured by Digital Switching Systems that handles multiple functions and as was previously stated, expensive and at one time, hard to find. Not sure if they started making them again or not. Wish they were individual switches.
 
I have the same year 280, and as far as I know there are a few unused switches on the instrument panel. I wonder if you can track down the wires (probably two) and allocate one of the unused switches to the blower? I guess you know, you have easy access to the switches by opening the helm hatch and crawling in with your upper body. Sure was nice of Sea Ray to put that hatch in there!
 
Danny Troy said:
I have the same year 280, and as far as I know there are a few unused switches on the instrument panel. I wonder if you can track down the wires (probably two) and allocate one of the unused switches to the blower? I guess you know, you have easy access to the switches by opening the helm hatch and crawling in with your upper body. Sure was nice of Sea Ray to put that hatch in there!
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if it is an eim with a PME in the engine room there are only 4 wires from the helm to the PME in the back 2 are power the other are low voltage serial bus wires they carry the signal to the PME then the PME activates the proper operation I have been having problems with my windlass for 3 years because of these soft switches I hope yours are different just my .02
 
I talked to MM. They said it was most likely the black box in the bilge. It is the one with the rubber covered fuses. Said it was 1200.00 to 1600.00 to replace. Also said there was a way to put the blower on one of the acc switches. Said the whole box was probably not bad. Has anyone had the black box apart? Also could seperate the blowers and just put in a toggle switch.
 
I'm sure the blower is powered by just a (+) and (-) wire, so installing a switch if you had to shouldn't be a huge problem. Before utilizing an unused switch you need to find the amp draw of the blower and make sure the switch can handle the amperage. You may also need to install an in-line fuse. If you install a new switch and need to route wires to the helm, drill a hole next to the existing wiring harness on the starboard side (just to the left of the harness) to route the wires. Don't try to mess with the harness, since it's packed with caulking. You are drilling through somewhat thin plywood at that location, so it's an easy job. If you can't fish the line from that hole to the helm (most likely you won't be able to) you need to remove the three screws holding the throttle/shift panel) and cut the white caulking to break the seal. You can then pull the panel away and get easy access to the helm and the hole you drilled. Cut the caulking with a razor, so when you screw it back together it will look good (in case you don't want to re-caulk it). What a PITA job for such a small problem!
 
gsmallwood said:
I talked to MM. They said it was most likely the black box in the bilge. It is the one with the rubber covered fuses. Said it was 1200.00 to 1600.00 to replace. Also said there was a way to put the blower on one of the acc switches. Said the whole box was probably not bad. Has anyone had the black box apart? Also could seperate the blowers and just put in a toggle switch.
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Yes, it could be the black box and yes you could bypass it with a toggle switch however from what others have reported in the past when they had similiar issues, once these boxes start having issues they just get worse so you may want to consider a long term plan if you don't want to replace the box. Also, is there any chance your dealer would let you plug up another switchpad to make sure that is not the true problem? My dealer has a "shop" keypad they let me use on another boat when I was trying to figure out an EIM issue. I was able to just plug up the spare keypad real quick to tell for sure whether it was a bad keypad or EIM in that situation. Just saying, since the true problem is unknown, it would be a shame to go to all that trouble if it was really just a keypad that needed to be replaced, that is all.
 
themikehyde said:
But have you tried turning the blower on from the generator panel in the cabin? It may be a little inconvenient, but it got me by uuntil my new switch pad arrived.
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It will turn off at the Gen panel but after a few seconds it comes back on. That is why MM thinks it is the black box in the bilge.
 
Is there any other place to buy these parts other than MarineMax? I am going to order a switch pad. Everyone now seems to think it is the switchpad.
 
Dang! I am glad I have just good ol circuit breaker switches that cost me about $12! Sometimes having an old classic pays off. Advice, do it right as the blowers are very very important to you and your family!
 
gsmallwood said:
Is there any other place to buy these parts other than MarineMax? I am going to order a switch pad. Everyone now seems to think it is the switchpad.
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If you can find out the maker of the switchpad, and order it through another source, you will save a lot of money. I bought a circuit breaker from MM, and found that I could have gotten it three times cheaper from Greatlakesskipper.com.
 
Danny Troy said:
If you can find out the maker of the switchpad, and order it through another source, you will save a lot of money. I bought a circuit breaker from MM, and found that I could have gotten it three times cheaper from Greatlakesskipper.com.
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The maker of the switchpad is Digital Switching Systems in RTP, NC. Problem is that others here have reported they offered little or no help directly to end users. Worth a try though I suppose. http://www.digitalswitchingsystems.com/
 
Sent DSS an e-mail. They sent one back stating they had a contract with SeaRay. I had to order from a dealer. Just went ahead and ordered it from MM. $338.50 shipped directly to me.
 
themikehyde said:
But have you tried turning the blower on from the generator panel in the cabin? It may be a little inconvenient, but it got me by uuntil my new switch pad arrived.
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Mike, I know it's an old post, but hopefully you can help me. I have the same situation. It works great using the panel switch in the cabin. So, you are saying replacing the switch, and not the module in the engine compartment, fixed the problem? I'd like to spend a few hundred, not 1k+!!!
 
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