268 weekender transom rot (contains high resolution pics)

L

lime4x4

Member
Jul 24, 2007
341
Palmerton,Pa
Boat Info
1986 268 searay weekender
Engines
5.7 vortec alpha
268 weekender transom rot & repair pics (contains high resolution pics)

Had to remove the outer transom plate (worn out). Found alot of rot around the transom cut out. Since i just spent alot of money for new vinyl and all new canvas i have no choice but to repair this. This will be my first transom replacement. Must whole the trnasom be removed? The rot appears to be about 1 foot around the opening (according to the test holes i drilled). More pics are available at picaso (just click on the link in my sig)
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i think your talking about KC_Sundancer thread with a 270. His looks like he replaced the intire transom. From what i can tell so far it looks like just the middle of mine is rotted. I was wondering can u do a partial transom replacement or is it better just replace the intire transom?
 
Yes, you should replace it all. Could you or can you do a partial? Yes, but I strongly don't recommend it. It's dirty and nasty work but once it's all cleaned up. It's a pleasure to replace.
 
KC's transom was rotten about like yours, he replaced the whole thing. He did a SUPER good job of posting exactly how to do it.
 
I'm going to replace the intire transom. I'll get all the rotted wood out before it gets too cold then come spring i'll install the wood and reglass. Maybe now would be good time to upgrade to twins...lol
 
Thanks again guy's !

Good decision - replace the whole thing, much stronger.
It's really not that much more work.
I did the same thing getting the rotted stuff out before winter.
If putting in storage try not to wrap things up to tight so it can ventilate and dry out really good.
In the spring, I found my halogen shop lamps worked to keep the temperatures up for good curing overnight.

Here's a link to my post which includes the transom replacement.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23289

I included the tools I found to work best on removing the good and bad wood. Feel free to ask questions. :thumbsup:
 
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I've good thru your thread Kc very good. I will be using west epoxy cause i'm use to working with it.

Spookeay As i've right now my stringers appear solid yet. If i had to replace the stringers then i would really have to look at converting to twins. The way it stands now i just have to replace the transom. Hopefully this weekend i can start removing the old one and c exactly what i'm working with
 
Started taking the inner fiberglass off. My transom is 2 thickness's around the the cut out for the drive it's 2 inches thick. A 2 foot area. The rest is 1 inch thick. Odd u would think it would be the same thickness all the way around. Found some more rot thou. Around the gas tank floor is rotted so the foam is probably wet as well
 
i think the 2" thick part has more to do with, what mercruisers specs are for instillation. i know they have a min and max for that measurement.
when i changed my transom assembly i had read something about this
max was 2 1/4". don't remember min.

any a guess to your question.
gary
 
Sounds like your making good progress.
Amazing what you find as you go - water damage seems to really spread beyond the intial area.

Our transom only has wood (constant 2" thk) between the stringers as you can see in my post. Outside of that was just glass with wood pads near the lifting rings.

Keep diggin'
 
KC is there another name for Bi-Lateral cloth? I use jamestowndistributors to get my epoxy resin and such. I'm getting ready to place an order for more resin and was going to get the cloth also. I found plain 10oz cloth on there site but i can't seem to find the other cloth. Also i'm going to use 1/2 exterior grade 4 ply plywood to get my 1 inch and 2 inch thickness that is needed. None of the local lumber yards around here carry marine grade plywood.
 
lime; are you going to change your transom assembly? did the damage come from any one spot you might have found leaking when you removed your transom assembly?
 
yes i'm changing the transom assembly. I removed it cause my outer transsom plate is worn by the steering pivot pin. That's how i found out that the transom was rotted. Wasn't counting on replacing the transom. But since the motor is out. Plus if i just replaced the transom plate i know that it's rotted back there so that would always be on my mind when on the water. Too much money in it to sell it. When it was all togher i couldn't tell there was damage to the transom. I had no water leaking into the bilge. What i could c of the cut out looked good.. It's more rotted at the bottom which makes sense. They just had paint on the cutout. If there is more then 2 inches of water laying in the V of the bilge. The bottom cutout would be exposed to water.
 
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Man i just releazied now i have to remove the gas tank. I filled it up for winter storage to help keep the water formation low. Now i got to empty 100 gallons of fuel. Plus it looks like it's a metal tank yet so it's going to be real heavy..
 
As u can c by the added pics i will also need to replace the foam as well. Any ideas what to use? Since i have to rip out alot of the shelving plus maybe the stringers i'm going to go a full 2 inches for the transom.
 
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use http://www.rotdoctor.com/ and read some stories there...even if you replce parts, other parts of boat will need the pentrating stuff dr rot carries, the stuff is awesome...i have poured it on stringers and a week later the wood is like a rock whe it was falling apart...
 
lime4x4 said:
As u can c by the added pics i will also need to replace the foam as well. Any ideas what to use? Since i have to rip out alot of the shelving plus maybe the stringers i'm going to go a full 2 inches for the transom.
Click to expand...

If you are changing the transom thickness around where the transom ring is attached, just make sure the new finished thickness is within the specs for your specific engine & drive.

Henry
 
the thickness around the transom ring was originally 2 inches. So i will be good there
 
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