260 Sundeck vs. F150

Steve Craig

Member
Jul 26, 2011
453
Saint John, N.B.
Boat Info
'07 260 Sundeck
Engines
6.2l & Bravo III / Corsa
Hi,
Just executed the deal on our new-to-us '07 260 Sundeck. Dealer will keep it for the Winter & deliver in May, just before the river starts to thaw. Considering towing it with my '13 F150. It's a 4X4 with 5.0 litre & a max tow package. Truck is rated by Ford to pull 7800 lbs. safely. Checked the GWVR & GCVR against the load & I'm OK.
Boat is 4950 lbs. per Sea Ray, Venture trailer is 1350 lbs., full water is 120 lbs. & full fuel is 400 lbs. Total loaded works out to 6820 lbs. if my weights are correct.
Hitch is good for 5000 lbs or 10000 lbs. with a weight distributing set-up. The weight distributing hitch is easy to buy but I'm having trouble getting it attached to the trailer. The pole tongue with a large surge brake actuator up front leaves no room. Reese has an adapter for a pole tongue # 58393.Only place I can place it would be behind the actuator. The brake mechanism is 30" long & the chains need to be mounted within 30" of the ball centre.
Anyone here pulling a boat trailer with a weight distributing system ?
Can you provide some description & feed back ?

Like to avoid going to a 3/4 ton but if that's the safe answer I'll start looking over the Winter. Just bought this truck in March. Tucked away in a garage for 2 years since new, had less than 6K miles on it.

Thank you.
 
Be careful with the weight distributing hitch. Most surge brake actuators don't work well with the pressure the tension bars put on it. It basically keeps it from moving freely forward and back. I had a 2005 260 Sundancer that I towed all the time. My trailer was setup with electric over hydraulic brakes and WD hitch and it was the perfect setup for towing.

Today I tow my 260 Sundeck without WD hitch and it is fine no issues what so ever ...provided you have your boat/trailer setup right with the proper tongue weight. I think you will be fine with the F150 without the WD hitch.... At least try it before spending more money
 
Reese is telling me the WD will work well with surge brakes, the trunion bar set-up & chains.
What are you towing your 260 with ?
I've not had the electric/hydraulic set-up before. Might look at it over the long Winter.
 
If the surge brake actuator is designed to work with the WD hitch it is fine. Most don't work well. I have had a number of 240sundecks and towed with a 1500 Suburban and no issues. I tow the 2010 260 Sundeck with a Mercedes GL450 with auto leveling. It does a really good job and if I remember right it's rated for 7,500 lbs
 
This isn't the greatest picture but this actuator is pretty well built. I tried the WD hitch on it and you could not put any pressure on it or it would just freeze up.
 

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i pull my 250 with my '13 ram 1500 with no problems without a WD hitch. i have the hitch insert but no torsion bars. no problem at all. mine is supposed to be closer to 8000 with the trailer but thats according to the PO
 
When we bought our 260DA last year, I had a 2011 Silverado 4x4 w/ towing package, etc. I studied and looked long and hard at WD hitches. The only thing I could find that I thought would work and not impede the surge brakes was this-https://www.etrailer.com/question-3591.html. It made sense that the trunion bars could move back and forth in the blocks that attach to the trailer. I towed it home w/o anything but the factory hitch. Never towed it again with a 1/2 ton-bought a Duramax 4x4. Check out the Reese without the chains.

Bennett
 
Saw the Reese with the slides rather than the chains. Think I just got it resolved today.
My concern was with the 5000 lb. rating on the factory hitch. Talked to a couple aftermarket suppliers about it.
I can easily get a 10000 lb hitch to replace the original. No WD set-up required & I can leave the trailer alone.
Only minor challenge will be getting the load placed/balanced correctly.

Thanks everyone for the insight.
 
Saw the Reese with the slides rather than the chains. Think I just got it resolved today.
My concern was with the 5000 lb. rating on the factory hitch. Talked to a couple aftermarket suppliers about it.
I can easily get a 10000 lb hitch to replace the original. No WD set-up required & I can leave the trailer alone.
Only minor challenge will be getting the load placed/balanced correctly.

Thanks everyone for the insight.

Much eaiser and cleaner hook up that way. Just make sure to check your tongue weight. Don't take someone's word for it.

Bennett
 
The load you are pulling is still the same with the existing hitch - the WD setup just transfers some of the tongue weight to the front of the vehicle. It's not like something in the hitch is going to catastrophically fail with the existing hitch.
 
By transferring the weight, the WD assembly can significantly reduce the strain on the hitch and the frame it is bolted to. I would opt for having a hitch rated to carry the weight in the manner in which you carry it.

It is noteworthy that hitch ratings are based on 10-15% tongue weight which is common with most trailers like travel trailers. Boats tend to have less tongue weight (usually about 7%). This is because most of the weight is near the stern of the boat. Therefore, trailer axles can be moved back and stability is improved, so less tongue weight is needed.
 
Opted to go the W-D route with the Reese 66153 + the 58393. The slides on the system will allow full movement for the surge brake. Another consideration was vehicle warranty + overall handling. Rated at 7800 lbs with a W-D system, only 5000 lbs. without.
A light duty 1/2 ton will take quite a sag with 600-700 lbs. or more on the tongue. A few more boat bucks out the door but I feel it is well worth it.
Not sure about other areas but local road laws can be fickle. Get into an accident with an under equipped tow vehicle & it's not pretty. Heavy fines, invalid insurance etc.. At fault or not...............it's ruled at fault.
 
Opted to go the W-D route with the Reese 66153 + the 58393. The slides on the system will allow full movement for the surge brake. Another consideration was vehicle warranty + overall handling. Rated at 7800 lbs with a W-D system, only 5000 lbs. without.
A light duty 1/2 ton will take quite a sag with 600-700 lbs. or more on the tongue. A few more boat bucks out the door but I feel it is well worth it.
Not sure about other areas but local road laws can be fickle. Get into an accident with an under equipped tow vehicle & it's not pretty. Heavy fines, invalid insurance etc.. At fault or not...............it's ruled at fault.

I think you made a smart decision short of a 3/4 ton truck.

Bennett
 
Think I'll print your reply & show the Colonel/Admiral/Gunnery Sergeant.
A few times, over the last 36 years, she's had some other noted opinions about some of my corporate decisions !:grin:
 
Think I'll print your reply & show the Colonel/Admiral/Gunnery Sergeant.
A few times, over the last 36 years, she's had some other noted opinions about some of my corporate decisions !:grin:

I know the feeling....However, when we bought our boat, I pulled it home with my 1/2 ton Silverado Z71 4x4. It was about a 55 mile pull to the house. Later that night, I told the admiral that I would never hook that truck back up to that boat again. Her reply was, "I reckon we need a new truck." I about fell over....

Bennett
 
Steve, The WD hitch has advantages past ratings. The whole rig will tow better with significantly more control and stability.

One thing to watch is the brakes, the sliding idea with the hitch will likely be mediocre at best. I've towed with a number of WD hitches and all of them including the sliding ones without chains hindered surge brake operation. I have not tried the Reese, but physics leads me to believe it will be similar to the others. If you find this is the case, the conversion to electric over hydraulic brakes is reasonably easy and should not break the bank. It would give you the added benefit of having working trailer brakes when backing down a ramp.

I would have full confidence that your truck, your boat, a WD hitch, and electric over hydraulic brakes would be an exceptional set up for extensive towing.
 
I was seriously considering the electric/hydraulic system before I found the # 58393 pole tongue adaptor. We haul it only a short distance to the ramp. 30 minutes gets us out of the driveway, boat into the water, truck parked & boat pulling away from the wharf. That was with the 210. The 260 may take a little longer first few outings.

Bennett,
I went the 3/4 ton route back in '03. Bought a new 31' travel trailer & a new F-250 to pull it with. Crew cab with 4 full doors, 8' box, 4X4, leather seats. Very nice truck. Pulled the trailer just for a warm up. Problem was, we only pulled it 3- 4 times a year, Rest of the year it was a work truck for me. V-10 gas & a 4.10:1 rear ratio had a lot of fun with my gas bill. 7 MPG empty/loaded, 7 MPG uphill/downhill, 7 MPG headwind/tailwind. 7MPG was all I ever saw with that truck. Unloaded it the following year.Took a real kick at trade but saved the difference in gas. Paid someone to move the trailer as needed.
 
I was seriously considering the electric/hydraulic system before I found the # 58393 pole tongue adaptor. We haul it only a short distance to the ramp. 30 minutes gets us out of the driveway, boat into the water, truck parked & boat pulling away from the wharf. That was with the 210. The 260 may take a little longer first few outings.

Bennett,
I went the 3/4 ton route back in '03. Bought a new 31' travel trailer & a new F-250 to pull it with. Crew cab with 4 full doors, 8' box, 4X4, leather seats. Very nice truck. Pulled the trailer just for a warm up. Problem was, we only pulled it 3- 4 times a year, Rest of the year it was a work truck for me. V-10 gas & a 4.10:1 rear ratio had a lot of fun with my gas bill. 7 MPG empty/loaded, 7 MPG uphill/downhill, 7 MPG headwind/tailwind. 7MPG was all I ever saw with that truck. Unloaded it the following year.Took a real kick at trade but saved the difference in gas. Paid someone to move the trailer as needed.

Wow! I am lucky as I drive mine full time as well, but I see yours was a gasser. I get 18 during the week and 11 on the weekends pulling the boat. I love my truck almost as much as my boat. Durmax with the Allison tranny, ext cab, 8' bed, LTZ. One day we will keep a boat in the water and I will likely downsize then.

Bennett
 
Be careful going by sea ray's weight numbers. They say my 280 weighs 8700 dry and venture said the trailer weighs 1800. Add some for fuel water and miscellaneous I figured 11-11.5K l. Mine weighed 12400 with no water 1/4 fuel and maybe 100 pounds of miscellaneous stuff. I have a ford 3/4 truck with a V10 rated at 12,500 so I am barely within it's rating It did ok but I am bought a new rated for over 16K. I told the dealerships the purpose of the truck and they agreed to let me test drive the truck with the boat attached. The engine still works very hard (power stroke) but everything else is superior (safer) than the truck before. Moral of my story is to get YOUR boat and trailer weighed. Even if it is within the rating of the truck you might find it is doable but makes you nervous.
 
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Wow! I am lucky as I drive mine full time as well, but I see yours was a gasser. I get 18 during the week and 11 on the weekends pulling the boat. I love my truck almost as much as my boat. Durmax with the Allison tranny, ext cab, 8' bed, LTZ. One day we will keep a boat in the water and I will likely downsize then.

Bennett
+1 duramax allison combo :cool: i pull the sorrento with a 2007 3500 with that combo. Although my boat doesnt weigh very much i pull a dump trailer and move concrete/soil/drain rock to the tune of about 12-15k lbs on a daily basis. It performs flawlessly.

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