260 Sundancer Windlass Installation (2003 Model)

Discussion in 'Modifications/Customizations' started by KevinC, Apr 3, 2014.

  1. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Next I started positioning the rocker switch. I thought it was best next to the trim tab switches.

    [​IMG]

    I marked the exterior then offset the cut needed

    [​IMG]

    after cutting the hole this is what the switch will look like mounted

    [​IMG]

    The final mount is completed by drilling some pilot hole and screwing to the console.

    This is my HDS-5 installed along with it. If anyone is interested in that install I can post later. It was pretty simple compared to the windlass.
     
  2. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    My next step was to find a dry location for the contactor. This is basically a solenoid/relay that controls the windlass. The contactor is connected to the battery source and also to the windlass. It works as a relay switch to allow for a basic "guarded" rocker switch to be used and will also allow for the connection to the foot switches.

    This is a picture of the contactor:
    [​IMG]

    and this is the location inside the helm I choose. It is to the starboard side of where the cabin door would slide too. Because some of the cable will be attached at an angle leave a little room to the side of the furthest position of the open door.

    [​IMG]

    and here it is mounted

    [​IMG]

    I don't seem to have any picture handy of it wired up.

    A this point I went to a clean up period.
    I spent some time reinstalling the shelves in the cabin and re installing everything that I removed.

    I did take the opportunity to address on thing. While the closet was apart I install a 12V power outlet on the closet wall below the CO detector behind the cushions. The intent here was to be able to have a dual port USB charger to provide power to toys on the starboard side. Since I sleep up on the v berth it made a much more handy connection to charge my cell phone or tablet over night.

    I will try to get a picture posted later to give you a better idea.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  3. rbryn

    rbryn Member

    254
    May 27, 2009
    Wilmington, NC
    2003 260DA
    350Mag MPI Bravo® III (re-powered 2013)
    Wow! This was awesome! My anchor windlass needs to be replaced (he's going off to college this year) so I've been thinking of putting one in but it felt daunting. Your step by step is just what I needed to see. It's not nearly as difficult as I imagined. The only thing I was thinking about differently would be to put a stainless steel plate down from the windlass to the tip of the bow as a rashguard before installing the windlass. It would cover the holes and protect the deck too.

    Thanks so much for the photos.
     
  4. MikeWood

    MikeWood Member

    111
    Jan 19, 2012
    Seneca Creek, Baltimore
    2008 270 Amberjack
    6.2 MPI & Bravo III
    Awesome write-up. Thanks for posting. This is on my to-do list as well...
     
  5. JeffM

    JeffM Member SILVER Sponsor

    532
    Oct 6, 2006
    Magothy River, MD
    2000 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    5.7 EFI w/Bravo III
    Great write-up -- thanks! The pictures of disassembly of the cabin and helm are very helpful, too. BTW, were those shelves OEM? They look great!
     
  6. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Thanks, more pictures and write up on the way. Just getting busy prepping the boat for this season.
    Hopefully more over the weekend.

    -Kevin
     
  7. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    The shelves in the cabin are OEM Sea Ray. IIRC, they were first introduced in 2003 on the the 260 along with the Cherry interior.

    -Kevin
     
  8. JohnS

    JohnS New Member

    4
    May 1, 2014
    Long Island, NY
    2001 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Mercruiser with Bravo III
    Thanks so much for the post and pictures. It's given me the confidence to attempt the same project. I'm assembling the supplies per your list, windlass just came today. Couple of quick questions which will show you how inexperienced I am. How did you connect the approximately 16awg windlass wires to the 6awg cables? Also, you indicated that you made a direct connection to the battery switch. Did you do so with the 6awg cable to the switch? And did you use the breaker in the line close to the switch? Looking forward to any more pictures you will post, especially if you had a picture of the contactor/solenoid connections and the breaker positioning in the bilge. Would you be interested in selling/renting the crimping tool to a fellow Long Islander to save a few bucks for both of us? Thanks again!!
     
  9. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    I pondered the connection for a while and eventually settled on making a crimp connection. What I wound up doing was cutting the top of the 6awg 1/4 post terminal crimp off leaving just the barrel. I then crimped the windlass line to the 6awg line and sealed with marine shrink tubing. I don't think I have pictures of that but you get the idea.

    I did not use the panel mounted breaker provided by Lewmar and instead purchased a similar surface mount breaker. For the connection I ran 6awg from the switch and mounted the breaker in the engine compartment just below. From there I extended the 6awg to the helm. I have pictures of that I will be posting. From what I learned, since it is a thermal breaker you would want the breaker as close to the power source as is convenient.
     
  10. Nehalennia

    Nehalennia Well-Known Member

    Aug 22, 2007
    Marysville, WA
    2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
    Twin 350 MAG V-drives
    Looking good. Thanks for documenting and sharing this.
     
  11. Cod Father

    Cod Father New Member

    20
    Sep 8, 2014
    Philadelphia
    2001 260DA Garmin 720S
    454 Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drives
    I have a 2001 260DA and would like to see your pics, video or whatever you have. I can't seem to find a way to get from the helm to anchor locker. I don't know where to run the wire. Would appreciate any help you could give.

     
  12. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Cod, he has some pictures near the beginning of the thread.
     
  13. Cod Father

    Cod Father New Member

    20
    Sep 8, 2014
    Philadelphia
    2001 260DA Garmin 720S
    454 Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drives
    Thanks Kevin I must have had threads hidden, I saw your pics and explanation, it was awesome and will help me. I have 2 vinyl boards going across both my sides in cabin, that will be my main challenge getting them off. I'm looking at getting a Lewmar v700, Lewmar said I should get a horizonal for mine for the space, but I like the looks of the vertical and was wondering if you had plenty of room for your motor.
     
  14. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    deleted. double post.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015
  15. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    I'm not Kevin, but I installed a V700 (vertical) in my 260DA (the 260DA's were the same from '99-'04). The locker is PLENTY big enough for a vertical.

    Vinyl boards? It sounds like a previous owner changed things around a bit. The originals would have been cushioned and wrapped in coordinating material. But, look for fasteners behind it or under it as I assume the screws are not in the face of it since you would have readily seen that. Or do you mean "soft" vinyl boards - with cushioning behind the vinyl? If so, the screws are hidden in the horizontal cleat - it takes about 2 minutes to remove those.

    While you're up at the bow checking things out for your windlass install, check the condition of the wood core in the locker's deck area. Removing the hawse pipe and anchor roller will give you access to check the wood out. Although, I think I mentioned this earlier in this thread.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015
  16. rbryn

    rbryn Member

    254
    May 27, 2009
    Wilmington, NC
    2003 260DA
    350Mag MPI Bravo® III (re-powered 2013)
    Kevin.

    Thanks for the detailed post on this. I have the same model and am in the process of ordering parts to do the same job. It's been a little while since this post was made... would you do anything different now that it's been a while since the install?
     
  17. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Sorry that I have been neglecting this post. I have been busy and not as much time online. If you have any questions you can still post them here and I will try to respond. I also have more pictures that I may have not included if anyone needs something specific. If you also PM me I will see it when I login. My last big project on this 260 was a total cockpit upholstery outfitting - learned a lot. Last year I completed most of it and this winter finishing some small items (primary the captains chair). I will probably make a post for that sometime in the future.
     
  18. rbryn

    rbryn Member

    254
    May 27, 2009
    Wilmington, NC
    2003 260DA
    350Mag MPI Bravo® III (re-powered 2013)
    Kevin,
    I wanted to thank you for this detailed post. We added the windlass to our 2006 26' Dancer last October and your photos and notes were spot on and a HUGE help. The only thing we did a little different... we cut some starboard to match the shape and outline of the windlass with a 1" border around it to help close up the slight hole underneath it. This helped us cover the hole itty bitty space that was left over as well as ensure that there was enough overlap to be waterproof (we sealed it with marine adhesive to the deck).

    The only other word of wisdom I would add for anyone undertaking this project... make sure your deck buttons to raise/lower the windlass from the deck are aligned to allow water to drain out instead of collect in the button wells. We weren't smart enough to do that and they are already starting to rust (less than 6 months later).

    I look forward to your cockpit upolstery pics!
     
  19. DjNiki4

    DjNiki4 Member

    95
    Sep 26, 2016
    NJ/NY/CT
    2004 260 Sundancer
    MAG 350
    deff on my to do list
     
  20. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Let me know if you have any questions. While I no longer have the 260DA (great boat), I am still around. Just working on my 340SDA these days.

    -Kevin
     

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