260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Thank you for the advice! We did put some fuel additive in as an extra step to be safe but it turned out to be the idle control valve. It was all burned up the mechanic said. No idea what that is, but it was running great again after he replaced that!
Yup - bad gas won't cause an alarm. But the IAC (idle air control) will set an alarm (not all the time) and does exactly what happened. The IAC controls "idle". For future reference, you CAN start and operate the engine with a failed IAC. Advance the throttle to start the engine - then shift into netural and back into gear very quickly before the engine dies. Makes for touch docking/trailering, though.

EDIT: Bad "gas", not "guess"
 
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Yup - bad guess won't cause an alarm. But the IAC (idle air control) will set an alarm (not all the time) and does exactly what happened. The IAC controls "idle". For future reference, you CAN start and operate the engine with a failed IAC. Advance the throttle to start the engine - then shift into netural and back into gear very quickly before the engine dies. Makes for touch docking/trailering, though.
If I was cruising at a faster speed, would I have not gotten the alarm until I slowed down to more of an idle speed? That is good to know because I wasn't far from the ramp and probably wouldn't have had to wait 2+ hours for a tow!

I've noticed you have offered a ton of great advice on here, any thoughts on my other original question? Any advice on the best ways to learn all about this stuff? Thank you!
 
My 2006 260 DA. Conversion to thru hull water intake using seacock head dump. Also my flush system getting extra strainer cap and attaching PVC. For a non forced garden hose fill. Overflow goes out to hatch gutter. Solved my overheat problem at high rpm.
 

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Hi, I have a 2007 260DA and I was curious if anyone knows how to access the windshield wiper motor to replace it?

thanks!!
 
Hi, I have a 2007 260DA and I was curious if anyone knows how to access the windshield wiper motor to replace it?

thanks!!

I believe you have to go in from the hanging locker. I had to open mine up for something else and I remember seeing it in there
 
Hello,

Long time lurker-first post. I decided to post this here instead of the modifications section because many details will be highly specific to this model and year.


I've owned a 2006 260DA for about 4 years now. I tackled a big project as soon as i bought it and wanted to share (3 years later-better late than never?). We planned on trailering for the first few seasons (ended up being 3) and I store it in my home garage which has a 12' garage door. Because the boat sits around 13'4" on the trailer i needed to lower the arch to get it in and out. I found a few pictures online of boats with hinged radar arches. The arch for the 260DA's are bolted (with sealant) onto the gunwales in a way that lends itself to this quite well. I did some careful measurements and modeled it up in 3d and found that i could hinge it forward to the top of the windshield and get under the 12' garage door. I made up templates of the arch footprint and scanned them into a CAD program. I sent the 2D .dxf file to a fab shop and had them water jet 4 pieces out and put a mirror finish on the visible sides of each (i say visible even though nobody ever sees it... completely unnecessary but makes it look more professional). I made a homemade hinge from a stack of round spacers and a hinge pin I bought from McMaster. I assembled all the spacers on the pin, sandwiched the plates together, and had a coworker weld each spacer onto alternating plates. I did this on both ends-one end is the permanent hinge and the other end I insert a quick release detent pin when the arch is in the up position (this was meant to be a fail safe if the actuators ever developed any excess play but it still shuts very tight without the pins).


For attaching the plates to the radar arch I used a combination of thru bolting (in the center where there’s access for a washer and nut through the arch’s access cover) and then epoxied-in SST threaded inserts into the fiberglass towards the outer edges. I then used flat head machine screws to attach the SST panel to the arch. On the hull side of things i just tapped directly into the fiberglass (or thru bolted with a nut on the other side if there was access). I believe I might of put a light coat of sealant before finally bolting everything together (hard to remember 4 years later…).


I took a piece of SST tubing and had it bent into an arc using a conduit bender and had this welded to the arch plate on the starboard side. A corresponding slot in the gunwale-mounted plate safely directs the cabling from the arch down into the boat during open/close.


I mounted a screw type actuator on each side to raise and lower the whole thing. This was the hardest part. They mount to the “deck” of the boat but I had to build up a mounting base to a precise height so that the actuator would shut the arch tightly at the end of it’s travel. This, in areas that are VERY hard to access. The port side actuator base mounts behind the battery isolator (all that has to come out to access….) These are controlled by a toggle switch i mounted (hidden) beside the under-dash fuse panel. They receive power simultaneously. I do worry that if one ever quit that the other would twist the arch and potentially cause damage but I just listen and watch carefully when I’m moving it up or down….no problems so far. The actuator mounts to the arch with a clevis bracket and hinge pin. So, theoretically if one actuator quit you could remove the actuator without tools and close the arch by hand. The arch takes about 30sec to move the full travel. If I don’t stop it halfway through and reverse direction or anything they usually finish their stroke within a half second of each other.


It does work very well. It’s not something I would want to do in choppy seas (why would you?!) and the arch is only extremely rigid in the up (normal) position. You wouldn’t want to leave it in the forward/down position if you were trailering or under way (unless to go under a bridge in calm water) – the weight is just cantilevered forward too far without any secondary support. It’s perfectly fine for storage purposes. Unfortunately, as I write this I realize I don’t have many pictures of it on my computer. If there’s any specific questions you have I can get more pictures or details. These are screenshots from a video I have of the actuation.
View attachment 86042 View attachment 86043 View attachment 86044


I’d love as much detail and pictures of this as you’re willing to share, I am considering purchasing a home where a fixed bridge of 11’ may be a factor
 
I believe you have to go in from the hanging locker. I had to open mine up for something else and I remember seeing it in there
This is correct. There may be a panel at the top of the locker that needs to be removed to access the wiper motor.
 
Hi,

Has anyone done the vinyl Aqua Tread Floor in a sundancer 260 cabin right below the step?
If so, could you share your results and sq ft approx?
Thank you
Matt
 
Hi everyone, looking forward some help either repairing or replacing the riser arms or complete hatch on my 2003 260DA. Sea ray does not support this part anymore.
 
Hi everyone, looking forward some help either repairing or replacing the riser arms or complete hatch on my 2003 260DA. Sea ray does not support this part anymore.
Are you talking about the powered actuator that raises the hatch? Is that what is not working and needs to be replaced?
 
Hi everyone, looking forward some help either repairing or replacing the riser arms or complete hatch on my 2003 260DA. Sea ray does not support this part anymore.
And which hatch are you referring to? Engine hatch or cabin ceiling hatch? I rebuilt the arms of my cabin hatch with oem Taylor Made parts. And the engine hatch on my 2000 260 is just an assist cylinder - no electrics or hydraulics.
 
And which hatch are you referring to? Engine hatch or cabin ceiling hatch? I rebuilt the arms of my cabin hatch with oem Taylor Made parts. And the engine hatch on my 2000 260 is just an assist cylinder - no electrics or hydraulics.


Wow! that was quick! Thanks Darrell. This is the forward ceiling hatch above the V Berth.
 
No power to vacuflush head...

Ok, I'm helping new owner of a 2008 260DA I recently sold. Never issues with electrical or head. Was working previously (survey). She had it hauled from eastern LI up to Peekskill this week. We Facetimed and she had everything right; battery switch on, DC panel switch for head on and key turned to on as well. No indicator light at switch and obviously no power to flush the head. IS that a potential fuse issue and is the fuse located at the key switch? There are 2 black buttons near head key switch; one marked head and the other I believe is for the pump out. Is the head black button a fuse?
 
No power to vacuflush head...

Ok, I'm helping new owner of a 2008 260DA I recently sold. Never issues with electrical or head. Was working previously (survey). She had it hauled from eastern LI up to Peekskill this week. We Facetimed and she had everything right; battery switch on, DC panel switch for head on and key turned to on as well. No indicator light at switch and obviously no power to flush the head. IS that a potential fuse issue and is the fuse located at the key switch? There are 2 black buttons near head key switch; one marked head and the other I believe is for the pump out. Is the head black button a fuse?
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/vacuflush-head.104227/
 
Installing the Bennet Marine Auto Trim Control in the Engine compartment near the Trim Tab pump. I need a 12v power source for the relay module. Can anyone suggest a source that is switched on?

Thanks for any help!

Kenny
2007 260DA
 
Installing the Bennet Marine Auto Trim Control in the Engine compartment near the Trim Tab pump. I need a 12v power source for the relay module. Can anyone suggest a source that is switched on?

Thanks for any help!

Kenny
2007 260DA


You may have an accessory switch leg in the bundle on the starboard side by the water heater. That’s the accessory switch on the dash and I used it for transom lights
 
You may have an accessory switch leg in the bundle on the starboard side by the water heater. That’s the accessory switch on the dash and I used it for transom lights

George, no luck finding that bundle. I'll keep looking or I'll run a connection to the helm. Thanks, though!

Kenny
 
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AF9A6A7C-FB51-44E7-9AE9-4330AB8C5EF0.jpeg

need help here, and my “mechanic” knowledge not good.

I changed the IAC valve today and took boat out....overheated after ~2 miles

temp highest around 200 degrees

When opened engine bay saw “oil” in the bildge and belt was off. Seems a “pulley” broke....see pics

why would that happened? Just need replaced that “pulley”? Cause damage to engine and that’s why oil out??

my boat is a 2015 DA 260 with Magcruiser 350
 
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