260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by Dave S, Oct 4, 2006.

  1. Chip S

    Chip S Member

    39
    Jun 17, 2019
    Bordentown, NJ
    1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter
    1993 Mercury 150 hp Black Max Outboard
    I was able to measure the height of the windshield of a 2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer on a Venture VBT-8600 trailer. The total height from the ground to the top of the windshield on this trailer was 10 feet, 0 inches.
     
  2. b_arrington

    b_arrington Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Feb 21, 2007
    Setauket, NY
    2018 Back Cove 34
    Cummins QSB 6.7 480
    Check your owners manual and the parts manual. They will show the location of the sender. In my 270 AJ the sender was in the front of the tank in the storage hatch - where the aft berth is in the 260 DA. Try looking there before you go removing the granny.
     
  3. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Good point. In his post, he used the term "in the rear aft", and I took that to mean the mid cabin ('rear' of the cabin)... and that he already checked there. But if he DIDN'T check there... the sender could very well be far enough forward to be able to be accessed through a deck plate in the mid-cabin floor. Actually, if someone just asked me where it was, I would have said through the mid-berth, like you were mentioning - guess I got thrown by the phrasing... or maybe my reading skills...

    Oh... yeah, those granny's can be quite ornery sometimes - best not to mess with 'em. :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  4. robjr67

    robjr67 New Member

    4
    Aug 27, 2014
    Virginia
    2005 Sundancer 260
    496 Mag
    Thank-you all for the replies. I have checked the owners and parts manual. It shows where the sending unit is located on the tank - cut out drawings, but it doesn't show how or where to access it. Being new to this I did state that I located it in the "rear aft" meaning in the cabin rear bed is that the mid berth? Like mentioned, I was able to lift up the 'boards' and with a flashlight and I was able to see it, but seems like there still isn't enough room to test or to lift up and out to replace. It seems to be still on the other side of the rear wall. Before I start taking out the boards in the rear - it's has caulking around the boards - I would like to talk to someone who has actually replaced the sending unit on a 260 with a generator close to my year to know how they did it...oh, what and where is the granny....? :) Again, I appreciate you all - thank-you ...
     
  5. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    If you want to verify whether or not you can reach it from the midcabin, you can lift the board in the midcabin enough to get a stick or a tape measure in there. That should tell you exactly where it is. You could also sneak a tape measure or stick in from the bilge - which might be easier to do.

    I looked at your parts diagram for the tank - you're right - it's towards the rear of the tank. I'm just guessing based on the diagram, but I'd say it's roughly 2' from the rear of the tank? Does that seem about right?

    There's no magic here - if you measure and find that the only access to it is from the bilge, then you know what you have to do.
     
  6. skibum

    skibum Well-Known Member

    Jul 30, 2007
    Perry Hall, MD
    2005 Sundancer 260
    496 Magnum HO
    Before you replace it... Have you run through the Smartcraft calibration? It might not be "broken".

    Pro tip: Even when it works correctly, it's more of a "fuel guesser" than a fuel gauge. Mine will read 1/4 tank when sitting still and 1/2 tank when on plane. Don't rely on it. You might be cruising along and see 1/4 on the gauge when you don't really have it in the tank.
     
  7. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    I have a 2006 260DA with a 6.2 and bravo 3. Some shallow areas at low tide in the st. Lucie inlet. Even though trying to be careful, I did it, buried the outdrive in mud/sand/shell. I'm hoping I dodged a bullet but not sure. It overheated. I was 10 minutes from dock so watched temp not get over 185 or so pretty much idling back to dock with alarm sounding. There was some hot smell and twice I heard slight slurp like trying to circulate water. All raw water cooling. I know, should have shut down so go ahead give me hell, but when back to dock temp was good and no alarm. Flushed it back at home (on trailer), and temp 168. All seemed okay although now I'm forcing water at house and not letting it draw on it's own. My question, what to take apart and check? Thermostat? I dont know of a strainer. Seems like there would be. Maybe debris cleared out and no damage? It has a brand new impeller. Any thoughts would be a help thanks. Will
     
  8. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    It happens - sounds like you'll be OK in the end with no major damage. If you weren't in muck for long, there's probably no reason to pull the block drains and flush it out. But it's not that hard to do, either. Most likely, you may have just scored the impeller housing or vanes. Keep an eye on your temps and if you then start to run a little higher, then go ahead and address it then. If you want to be proactive, then go ahead and check the impeller out. Highly unlikely you did anything to the circ pump.

    No, if you have the stock system, there is no "real" strainer. Those holes in your outdrive are your strainer. You could install a thru-hull/seacock/strainer, if you want... it's a better setup all together, as well.

    It's unlikely that running on the hose is giving you better results than what you'd get in the water - you get much better (amount) flow in the water than on the hose.
     
  9. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    I was told by a marine max mechanic that the boat has aftermarket risers and that they are prone to pitting and leaking, possibly destroying the engine. That's now a worry too. The boat is so heavy I hardly felt it bury the outdrive. The props are not a scratch but the nice black paint is really scratched off the lower half of the outdrive.
    Btw, the smartcraft LED on the speedo was burnt and unreadable, so I sent it to guagesavor.com , got it back in 2 weeks with new LED and cover. Now I can actually read it. But to see "check engine" and "overheating" was not a pleasant sight. Thanks much for your help. Will
     
  10. robjr67

    robjr67 New Member

    4
    Aug 27, 2014
    Virginia
    2005 Sundancer 260
    496 Mag
    Good day - Does anyone know where I can get this exact anchor mount for 2005? I've looked for several days, with no luck. SeaLux makes one similar but it's for a 65ft Yacht …maybe one day...lol.. Thanks again,

    upload_2019-8-13_21-27-30.png
     
  11. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    2006 260DA Sundancer 6.2
    No power to Engine lift hatch.
    Anyone know where exactly to look for the problem? Fuse good, toggle switch has power and works fine, but getting no power to the motor that lifts the hatch. Thanks for any help, Will
     
  12. Happy Dayz

    Happy Dayz Active Member

    537
    Jun 26, 2017
    Sarasota, FL
    '06 260 Sundancer, 6.2, BIII, Kohler 5kw
    79' classic Kona Family Cruiser jet boat..
    6.2 w/ BIII, 502 w/ Berkekley
  13. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Do you have the transom door fully open?
     
  14. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    Yes door open. It will operate with transom door closed but you would break it in a bind when you lifted the hatch. There is no lock out switch.
    The lift was kind of intermittent then quit altogether. I had to go through the under seat access and disconnect the rod, and manually mussel it open and prop it up.
    Since the switch has power, but it's not getting to the motor, I was wondering if anyone knows where to trace the problem. The wiring diagram shows a relay or something between the switch and motor, but I dont know where that is located and the manuals dont help. Thanks. Will
     
  15. andy k

    andy k Member

    431
    Feb 7, 2009
    Door County, Wisconsin
    1998 3075
    Mercruiser 5.7 w/ Alpha one. Kohler 5kw
    My 260DA did not come with a anchor roller. My dock mate did have a factory installed anchor roller. I looked for the manufactures sticker on his anchor roller and called that company. They were able to make me one for around $300. This was 9 years ago so I do not remember the manufacturer or if they would still have the templates in stock.

    Your 05' 260DA is the newer generation than my 99' but the roller looks the same.
     
  16. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    There is, indeed, a lock-out switch (or, there "should" be). It's magnetic and mounted behind the fiberglass where the door opens. It sounds like yours may be malfunctioning. Whether that's the whole problem, or not, I'm not sure. If memory serves, once you're in the bilge, look for two small wires coming down from the door area. I think (again, going off memory here), you can disconnect the plug and short them together to bypass the lock-out switch.

    EDIT: Just to be clear, you can definitely short/bypass the switch - it's just a simple on/off switch. I "think" there are quick disconnects in the wires that come from the mag switch that you can easily disconnect to bypass.

    Now, maybe this is what a previous owner had done and their "bypass" is corroded or starting to fail.

    I thought there was a large fuse (25/30 amp?) under the dash for the hatch motor? Or maybe that's where the relay is? Take a look there for starters.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
  17. bbwhitejr

    bbwhitejr Well-Known Member

    Apr 14, 2013
    Lake Lanier GA
    2007 44DB
    Cummins QSC 8.3s
    My '06 260DA had the magnetic switch mounted behind the fiberglass wall behind the door when it is open. The hatch would not open unless the door was open. As Dennis states, you can short the two wires off of it together and it will by pass the switch.

    Bennett
     
  18. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    Thanks I had no idea about the lock out. One time I was lifting the hatch with the toggle, and after a few inches I saw the door was closed. I thought wow I better watch that, it would cause damage. So the previous owner must have disabled the lockout. When I am back home I will check it out. Thanks again, Will
     
  19. yarecki

    yarecki New Member

    1
    Oct 15, 2019
    2006 260 DA
    VOLVO PENTA D6 310
    Hello everybody, for a few days I am trying to find a left side windshield for my 2006 260 DA, no effect. Windshields are branded by Taylor Made, but they don't have it or can "produce" one for me for ONLY 2450$ :/. Sent message to dealer and most of sea ray parts shops on internet waiting for response, but I am afraid it won't end succesful. Do You have any idea or maybe saw something somewhere to help me in this case? :)
     
  20. Artemus6

    Artemus6 New Member

    21
    Dec 12, 2018
    Florida
    2006 SeaRay Sundancer 260
    6.2 merc w/Bravo 3
    That was it, one of the two wires came apart from a connector going to that lock out switch. Works fine now. Thanks for pointing that out about that door lock out. Will
     
    techmitch likes this.

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