260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

[Artemus6]

Your vacuflush is a 12v system. On your 12vDC breaker panel you have a breaker labeled “Head” I believe. Turn this on. This will activate your vacuflush pump and your system will build up vacuum pressure. Beside the key to the right of the toilet, there is a green and red light if I remember correctly. Green means OK to flush, red means no.

If you want to dump the holding tank overboard, you should have a 12v breaker that is labeled “Macerator.” Turn this breaker on. Then once you are 3+ miles offshore, open the ball valve in the bilge that is on the macerator line. Go into the head, push and hold the little black button beside the key and turn and hold the key as well. This energizes the macerator pump and should empty the tank.

Bennett

The problem is for one thing, I flip the breaker on at the DC panel and hear nothing happen. Does the fresh water tank need water in it to trigger the vacuflush to build vacuum?
And in the head, I dont find any other controls, like waste tank level or mercerator.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Here is a parts diagram from your Parts Manual. If you do to not have #6, you have a problem. You do not need FW pump for the vacuum pump to come on. Do you have power to your 12 v panel by turning on your batteries?

 

[Artemus6]

Here is a parts diagram from your Parts Manual. If you do to not have #6, you have a problem. You do not need FW pump for the vacuum pump to come on. Do you have power to your 12 v panel by turning on your batteries?

View attachment 63044

Thanks for that diagram, I'm not at the boat now, but when I get home I will look better. I cleaned that whole boat real good when I bought it, and I dont remember seeing that in the head. Will know in a week or so. Thanks

 

[Artemus6]

Can someone tell me about the emergency bilge pump wiring on my 06 260. The pump in the engine room has 2 wires on the pump. The pump under the stairs next to the shower sump box has 3 wires. Is one of the wires for an alarm? The float is missing so I have to figure out the wires to hook up the new float switch. Two of the wires on the pump are on a double connector. The third wire is by itself, I think it has a yellow stripe and says main on the wire. If someone has a diagram that would be great. Will

 

[Little Ducky]

Can someone tell me about the emergency bilge pump wiring on my 06 260. The pump in the engine room has 2 wires on the pump. The pump under the stairs next to the shower sump box has 3 wires. Is one of the wires for an alarm? The float is missing so I have to figure out the wires to hook up the new float switch. Two of the wires on the pump are on a double connector. The third wire is by itself, I think it has a yellow stripe and says main on the wire. If someone has a diagram that would be great. Will

Are you sure it's missing or is it built into the bilge pump? Post a picture.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Can someone tell me about the emergency bilge pump wiring on my 06 260. The pump in the engine room has 2 wires on the pump. The pump under the stairs next to the shower sump box has 3 wires. Is one of the wires for an alarm? The float is missing so I have to figure out the wires to hook up the new float switch. Two of the wires on the pump are on a double connector. The third wire is by itself, I think it has a yellow stripe and says main on the wire. If someone has a diagram that would be great. Will

Here is your owner’s manual. Wiring diagrams are close to the back.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/srweb-pvt-...-manuals/2006_260 Sundancer_260 Sundancer.pdf

Bennett

 

[Artemus6]

Are you sure it's missing or is it built into the bilge pump? Post a picture.

I will get a picture when I'm back home, but the pump is like the one in engine room, barrel shaped 1100 gpm I think with red top. But it has 3 wires coming from it instead of two. The manual shows it with 2 leads and a separate float switch.

 

[Artemus6]

Here is your owner’s manual. Wiring diagrams are close to the back.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/srweb-pvt-prod-us-east-1-294962523550/static/owners-manuals/2006_260 Sundancer_260 Sundancer.pdf

Bennett

Thanks I have the manuals at home, but like i said the wiring diagram doesn't really show the pump having 3 wires coming from it. But maybe I'm just reading it wrong. And once again we are talking about the forward emerg. Pump under the steps. It must be wired to an alarm right? And BTW, is there a certain water level that must be reached in engine room, before water spills into that area under the steps where shower sump is?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks I have the manuals at home, but like i said the wiring diagram doesn't really show the pump having 3 wires coming from it. But maybe I'm just reading it wrong. And once again we are talking about the forward emerg. Pump under the steps. It must be wired to an alarm right? And BTW, is there a certain water level that must be reached in engine room, before water spills into that area under the steps where shower sump is?

Go back and follow the wiring diagram completely (use the link that Bennett graciously provided, if you don't want to wait till you get home). Don't just stop on the page with the E-pump - follow it to the other pages. It will show you that there should be an alarm hooked up to the end of the circuit, as opposed to a manual switch as there is no switch for that pump. Yes, there are only two wires, since that system used a float switch. If the pump you currently have has 3 wires, then that is an automatic pump (no separate float) that a previous owner installed, or possibly a change was made over the years by Sea Ray and just not reflected in the manual. Either way, power is power is power.

There is (should be) no spill over from the bilge since the cabin is a separate entity. The e-pump only covers the cabin. If water is "spilling over" into the cabin from the bilge, you should already have made a May-Day call, life jackets on and be overboard... I think you get where I'm going here.

 

[PatrickM]

Artemus6: Here's a screen shot of the circuit. Power in on 313-14 to the float. If the float makes, power is supplied to the pump and also the high water alarm on 315-16.
-Pat-

 

[Artemus6]

Go back and follow the wiring diagram completely (use the link that Bennett graciously provided, if you don't want to wait till you get home). Don't just stop on the page with the E-pump - follow it to the other pages. It will show you that there should be an alarm hooked up to the end of the circuit, as opposed to a manual switch as there is no switch for that pump. Yes, there are only two wires, since that system used a float switch. If the pump you currently have has 3 wires, then that is an automatic pump (no separate float) that a previous owner installed, or possibly a change was made over the years by Sea Ray and just not reflected in the manual. Either way, power is power is power.

There is (should be) no spill over from the bilge since the cabin is a separate entity. The e-pump only covers the cabin. If water is "spilling over" into the cabin from the bilge, you should already have made a May-Day call, life jackets on and be overboard... I think you get where I'm going here.

When I got the boat, I found that e-pump not hooked up. Three wires hanging out. I will have to do some testing to see why it got unhooked. One of the 3 is separate, brown w/yllw stripe and says main on it. The other 2 brown and together with a double Male connector. I see another harness nearby where it would plug into. But the other separate wire not sure where it connects. Must be some problem with the pump or alarm to make someone disconnect it all.

I poured water into the shower sump. It filled with water and did not pump out. I pinch a couple times the water exit hose next to the box and it pumps out great. Not reliable, must need a new shower pump. I did have some bilge water there and carpet wet. So I'm thinking water spill over from shower sump, making alarm go off with bilge pump triggering, so they disconnected the pump?

 

[Artemus6]

View attachment 63091
Artemus6: Here's a screen shot of the circuit. Power in on 313-14 to the float. If the float makes, power is supplied to the pump and also the high water alarm on 315-16.
-Pat-

So 316b is the double brown with connector that comes out of pump. Then the 3rd wire on pump brown with yllw stripe and says main would be ground?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Black is ground - as noted on the diagram. Brown's carry the voltage - from various sources.

Don't attempt to try and figure out "why" a previous owned did something. You'll spend an ungodly amount of time and, the truth is, it really doesn't matter. Just fix it and move on.

 

[Artemus6]

Go back and follow the wiring diagram completely (use the link that Bennett graciously provided, if you don't want to wait till you get home). Don't just stop on the page with the E-pump - follow it to the other pages. It will show you that there should be an alarm hooked up to the end of the circuit, as opposed to a manual switch as there is no switch for that pump. Yes, there are only two wires, since that system used a float switch. If the pump you currently have has 3 wires, then that is an automatic pump (no separate float) that a previous owner installed, or possibly a change was made over the years by Sea Ray and just not reflected in the manual. Either way, power is power is power.

There is (should be) no spill over from the bilge since the cabin is a separate entity. The e-pump only covers the cabin. If water is "spilling over" into the cabin from the bilge, you should already have made a May-Day call, life jackets on and be overboard... I think you get where I'm going here.

Are you sure it's missing or is it built into the bilge pump? Post a picture.

The manual shows a separate float and I see where one was mounted. Just not sure why pump has 3 wires. I guess one goes to an alarm.

 

[Artemus6]

Your vacuflush is a 12v system. On your 12vDC breaker panel you have a breaker labeled “Head” I believe. Turn this on. This will activate your vacuflush pump and your system will build up vacuum pressure. Beside the key to the right of the toilet, there is a green and red light if I remember correctly. Green means OK to flush, red means no.

If you want to dump the holding tank overboard, you should have a 12v breaker that is labeled “Macerator.” Turn this breaker on. Then once you are 3+ miles offshore, open the ball valve in the bilge that is on the macerator line. Go into the head, push and hold the little black button beside the key and turn and hold the key as well. This energizes the macerator pump and should empty the tank.

Bennett

Thanks for the info. I tried to activate the pump out but didn't know you had to hold the black button while turning the key. There is no instructions in all the boat manuals that I have about this panel.

 

[Artemus6]

Here is a parts diagram from your Parts Manual. If you do to not have #6, you have a problem. You do not need FW pump for the vacuum pump to come on. Do you have power to your 12 v panel by turning on your batteries?

View attachment 63044

Where did you get that diagram? My manual does not have this. That is my panel but no instructions how to use it. I turn key all the way while holding either or both black buttons and it doesn't pump out. Seacock open, water pump on, head DC switch on.

 

[maxse]

I have an estimate to replace my risers/manifolds for 8 hours of labor does that sound about right for an 07'?

 

[Fish Peddler]

I have an estimate to replace my risers/manifolds for 8 hours of labor does that sound about right for an 07'?

Hey Maxse,
I had my 2005 done this summer, same engine as yours. My mechanic charged for 5 hours at $95/hr ($475), 2 X Merc 6.20 G.I. Exhaust manifolds @ $453.58 each ($907.16) and 1 X Merc 6" riser kit @ $672.43, so this came to a total $2054.59. There could have been some other misc. parts, I had a lot of other work done at the same time.

 

[maxse]

Ok, so I have 2 extra parts - 2 x elbows at $413/ea so maybe that is part of the extra time involved.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I have an estimate to replace my risers/manifolds for 8 hours of labor does that sound about right for an 07'?

They may be giving a high estimate as a "worst case" scenario. Sometimes you don't know what you're getting into till you get into it. Especially if they're not right there looking at things. Is there anything that needs to be moved out of the way, first? That's another reason for a higher than normal estimate. The elbows won't account for the extra time. They have to come off first, regardless of being replaced or not.

I would suggest talking to them and just asking for a more detailed explanation. In most cases, the reason for "questions" is simply a combination of not understanding the procedure, not asking enough questions and not being given enough explanation to begin with.