260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by Dave S, Oct 4, 2006.

  1. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Well, I'll be. That hull number is, indeed, for a '05 260DA. Honestly, I thought it was going to come back as a 240DA and a previous owner had renamed the boat! It's also the first '05-'09 260DA that I've seen with the tank up forward. I think B Arrington might have a good explanation for it, as it he pointed out.

    FYI, '99-'04 260DA's had the tank in the bilge... well, at least every one I've ever seen! :)
     
  2. aerobat77

    aerobat77 Member

    314
    Aug 12, 2014
    germany
    2006 240 DA Sundancer
    5.0 MPI / Bravo III
    hard to believe searay ever built a 260 dancer out of a 270 amberjack hull , don't you think ? any specifications , wirings , pipings and more would not fit in this case by design . never heard of it before .
     
  3. Dadsturn

    Dadsturn New Member

    23
    Jun 14, 2017
    texas
    2005 Searay 260 sundancer
    6.2 merc.
    Everything else on the boat is exactly like the manual layout
     
  4. Dadsturn

    Dadsturn New Member

    23
    Jun 14, 2017
    texas
    2005 Searay 260 sundancer
    6.2 merc.
    OK, its official. my 260 has the exact freshwater tank assembly as that of a 270aj. triangular under where table stows.
     
  5. werdnaycart

    werdnaycart New Member

    8
    Sep 16, 2016
    Fort Myers
    260
    350 MAG MPI
    I need some help with an overheating problem...I have a 2005 260 DA with 350 Mag MPI w/ bravo III. The engine is raw water cooled. I just had a new water pump (the entire pump not a rebuild) installed. The impeller had come apart, and there was bad scoring on the inside of the pump (which is why we replaced the whole thing) and we fished out all the old impeller pieces. The boat ran great for about 15 hours. Now this weekend, we put about 10 hours on the boat...drove about 100 miles round trip. Around hours 7-8 of our trip, the engine started increasing in temperature from 150-160ish up to about 185 over the course of 10 minutes. We were running around 3800-4000RPM when this happened. (we were in Pine Island Sound in FT. Myers, FL area) I then slowed to idle, and the temperature immediately spiked up to 200-210ish and alarm sounded. We shut down the engine lifted the hatch and all seemed normal (no leaks, belts were fine) checked the outdrive, no obvious blockage. After about 10-15 minutes we restarted the engine, and it cooled immediately down to 150-160 at idle (was around 185 when I turned the key). Ran at about 3800-4000RPM for about 10-15 minutes and began heating again slowly up to 185. Slowed to idle and immediately alarms went off and temp raised to 200ish, shut down motor waiting to cool, and restarted and again temp dropped and stayed steady at 155. This happened about 3-4 times over the course of an hour. Then for the last hour to 90 minutes of the trip, it did not reoccur. I noticed that while running at 3800-4000RPM the water pressure was up around 5 PSI. It seems to usually be in the 3-4 range. Manifolds and Risers on the boat are just under 2 years old. Most of the boating is done in fresh water (although not this day). The engine is always flushed with salt away after use. Any ideas on what could cause this? Thanks in advance everyone!
     
  6. Little Ducky

    Little Ducky Active Member

    513
    Jun 5, 2017
    Chattanooga TN/Dickson TN
    1998 SeaRay 290 Sundancer
    Twin 5.0L w/Alpha 1 drives
    Does anyone in here own or have owned a 2011 260 DA?

    I was just wondering if you had the same hull blister issues I've had.

    Thanks
     
  7. Bk124tt

    Bk124tt Member

    37
    Apr 23, 2017
    Long Island NY
    2004 260
    5.0 MERCRUISER
    No hull blistering on my 04 260
     
  8. skibum

    skibum Well-Known Member

    Jul 30, 2007
    Perry Hall, MD
    2005 Sundancer 260
    496 Magnum HO
    Bravoitis.

    Follow the water inlet line from the water pump to where it connects to a plastic housing on the transom assembly. Remove the 2 bolts holding that housing to the transom assembly, and take a look at the hose inside of it. If it is squished closed (or mostly closed), then you need to replace the water inlet tube.
     
  9. Fish Peddler

    Fish Peddler New Member

    24
    Nov 24, 2014
    Gloucester
    2005 Sundancer 260, Garmin 741xs, Venture aluminum tandem trailer, 2 2008 STF-15 Jetskis, Caribe din
    Mercruiser 350 w/Bravo III
     
  10. Fish Peddler

    Fish Peddler New Member

    24
    Nov 24, 2014
    Gloucester
    2005 Sundancer 260, Garmin 741xs, Venture aluminum tandem trailer, 2 2008 STF-15 Jetskis, Caribe din
    Mercruiser 350 w/Bravo III
    Hey Dadsturn,

    You're not crazy, my 260 has the freshwater tank under the v-berth too. I wish it was in the engine room so I could visually check the level, because that's impossible where it is. The fill is on the left side of the bow deck.

    I'm having a problem that I think is coming from the tank. If I fill it up, or even mostly fill it (which is a guess) the next time I move the boat the carpet gets wet right in front of the step up into the seating area for the table.
    Most people I have asked have said I either have a leak around the portholes or the shower sump may not be working correctly. I think I've pretty much eliminated those two possibilities. Only adding small amounts of water to the tank seems to be solving the problem for now, but it sure doesn't look like this tank would be easily accessible to try to spot and fix a fitting leak. Anyone ever had this problem?
     
  11. DTW

    DTW Member

    31
    Apr 21, 2010
    Columbus, Ohio
    2011 260 DA 350
    Previous boats: 2002 240 DA, 1999 215 Chap, and 1988 Searay Seaville
    350
    Yes
    I had major hull blisters. After 3 tries of getting my Marina to fix it correctly, they finally sent it to a glass shop in Indy to get it fixed. Now I don't leave in the water more than two weeks just in case.
    Unfortunately, it ended my relationship with some good people at the Marina as the owner tried to bill me for the proper fix saying the warranty was at 25%, but he was willing to split the cost. My belief that from day 1 it was never fixed correctly so I refused to pay.
     
    Little Ducky likes this.
  12. Rohan

    Rohan Member SILVER Sponsor

    82
    Jan 23, 2012
    Pittwater and the Hawkesbury River, Sydney, Austra
    2008 Sea Ray 275 Sundancer, NorthStar 657 Chartplotter, 2.6m Zodiac tender 3.3 Mercury O/B
    350 Mag SeaCore Bravo III drive
    FWIW I just removed the 3 standard cushions from the mid cabin and purchased a double mattress - as the area is just slightly narrower (by 2inches) and the same length as a standard double mattress. Make sure not to get too thick a mattress however, maximum of say 8" or 20cm. I bought an inner spring mattress from IKEA which came rolled up - so at least I could get it in there before I then opened it up and let it expand to fill the space. Not sure how I would ever be able to get it out though...

    So now a proper sprung mattesss in my mid cabin. Best investment yet. I had tried wool toppers. 3 inch memory foam, combining wool and memory foam - nothing like the sprung mattress which is also a lot cooler to sleep on.

    One more thing I've done is to put a fresh air vent in the starboard bulkhead at the end of the mid cabin and installed 4" ducting from the vent, up under the helm seat to another vent allowing fresh air to circulate. And on a hot night - it gets pretty warm here in summer, I can put a small battery powered fan at the vent near the helm and pump fresh air into the mid cabin.

    And we've taken to sleeping with our heads to the starboard end of the mid cabin as we realised the port end tends to be a little lower - my guess is the less than full holding tank to starboard does not offset the full water tank to port.

    I'll post some pictures of the venting setup shortly.
     
  13. Richard N

    Richard N New Member

    18
    Sep 29, 2017
    Southern California
    270 Amberjack 2007
    Achilles LT2 dinghy
    6.2 Mercruiser w/ Bravo III Drive
    How many gallons is the bait tank?
     
  14. Happy Dayz

    Happy Dayz Member

    99
    Jun 26, 2017
    Sarasota, FL
    '06 260 Sundancer, 6.2, BIII, Kohler 5kw
    79' classic Kona Family Cruiser jet boat..
    6.2 w/ BIII, 502 w/ Berkekley
    ...it appears I'm getting rain water intrusion from the rub rail and dampening the carpet from the head side... uuggg
     
  15. Kendall

    Kendall Member

    365
    Feb 3, 2009
    Lake Wylie SC/SC Coast
    2006 260DA
    "WET BAR"
    Generator

    Tow Vehicle:
    2006 F-350 Dually 4X4 Diesel
    350 MAG w/Bravo III
    More details please.... The top hull overlaps the bottom hull at this joint so rain water does not normally enter here near the head. If there is a gap at the hull joint at the rub rail near the back of the boat wave action water can force its way into the bilge. Is there rain water/ocean water in the bilge or just forward carpet wet?
     
  16. Happy Dayz

    Happy Dayz Member

    99
    Jun 26, 2017
    Sarasota, FL
    '06 260 Sundancer, 6.2, BIII, Kohler 5kw
    79' classic Kona Family Cruiser jet boat..
    6.2 w/ BIII, 502 w/ Berkekley
    thought i read here that was the cause. just a couple times and this last week we had rain and the bottom hull floor gets damp on the starboard side? rained last night and going to check when get home if wet.. i get bilge water somewhere else...lol
     
  17. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Most common reason for rain water showing up below the head door opening is from a leaking head portlight. Leaking NOT into the head, but between the head and the outer hull. This is from the sealant around the outer trim failing over time. Take a close look at that (outer trim pieces).

    It's not uncommon as the sealant will naturally breakdown over time and it's relatively normal to expect to have to reseal things now and again. It's also a pretty easy job and there have been multiple "how to's" posted about this if you can't figure it out by just looking at it. FYI, the carpeted trim piece below the head door takes about 3 minutes to remove, giving you better access to see what's going on (simulate rain with a hose).
     
  18. Happy Dayz

    Happy Dayz Member

    99
    Jun 26, 2017
    Sarasota, FL
    '06 260 Sundancer, 6.2, BIII, Kohler 5kw
    79' classic Kona Family Cruiser jet boat..
    6.2 w/ BIII, 502 w/ Berkekley
    ...thank you Dennis. will check her out and appreciate your time and help!
     
  19. Maggieiscrazy

    Maggieiscrazy Member

    58
    Oct 14, 2016
    Northern Wisconsin
    240 Sundancer
    5.0. Bravo III
    The front hatch leaks on my boat when it rains hard. What is the best sealant to use to fix it?
     
  20. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    I don't know what year your boat is, but there's a good chance that there was no sealant originally used. Instead, a foam gasket may have been used. Either way, a good sealant is what you want and this is maybe an hour-long job. Check the coring out real well, though. As far as sealant, there really is no "one best" product, but DO NOT use 3M 5200... regardless of what you may read on various forums. Me, personally, I like the Boat Life products such as Life Seal. Lot's of posts/threads about resealing a deck hatch, too - should provide you with PLENTY of reading material on this subject! :)
     

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