26 inch LED TV install

hack4alivin

Active Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Apr 18, 2008
2,518
Joppa, Maryland
Boat Info
320 Dancer
Engines
Twin 350 V Drives
I just finished my installation of a new Samsung 26 inch LED TV on the wall over the Aft Cabin. The hard part was running the antenna and DVD output from the location of the current TV on the other side of the boat. Radio Shack had a cable called RapidRun. http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=rapidrun&origkw=Rapidrun&sr=1

It is designed to run audio / video signals through walls, and it worked great for my application. I ran this cable and a 75 ohm coax for the antenna from under my helm station, behind all the cabinets on the starboard side, down behind the clothes cabinet, and snaked it into the area under the bed where the AC unit is located. I was able to follow the AC duct work, and then back up into the cabinet where the original TV is located. Once inside it was a simple matter of hooking up the antenna lead and the output plugs of the original DVD player to the audio and video inputs of the RapidRun cable. I used the 35 foot RapidRun cable and it was just enough, it was close.

Now the new TV can receive digital broadcast from the arch antenna or the shore supply antenna. The TV’s auxiliary is hooked up to the DVD player.

While I was in the process of pulling cables around the boat I also pulled in audio output from the TV to my Clarion radio. I already had the Sirius weather option on my Raymarine C80, so with that I would change my radio stations from the Raymarine. It was already using the auxiliary inputs on the Clarion. I installed a 4 way audio / video switch box in the small cabinet under the electrical panels, and wired that to the radio. Now all I have to do is push the selector button on this box to listen to the TV through the Clarion. There are also two spares, so connecting an IPod will be easy.

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Great job Bill,

Thanks for sharing the pictures. That project is on my list as well...

Do you have a separate switch for the two lights over the TV? I don't on my 340, but the ones delivered with the factory TV on the bulkhead have one for those two lights.
 
Do you have a separate switch for the two lights over the TV? I don't on my 340, but the ones delivered with the factory TV on the bulkhead have one for those two lights.

No I don't, but I think that will be the next project. Should be simple enough.
 
Is it really an L E D and not L C D? You really splurged if its an LED! Nice job though!
 
Beautiful installation! Can you share any information on the type of TV mounting bracket that you attached to the bulkhead?
Warren
 
Beautiful Install! I thought of the same place on my 330 but decided against it as I don't spend enough time inside the cabin to justify the cost. Great work!
 

I upgraded my Non-Hi Def TV that was factory installed to a a Sony 26". I didnt have to run any wires, just had to reuse what was there. However I shoud tell you that the outlet box installed by Sea Ray was mounted behind the electrical pannel in the cabin, not down in the bilge.

You might want to move that box. It is not a good idea to have 120 volts in the bilge.

Sea Ray also installs a "muff" around the TV to soften the looks. (The picture is before I modified the Muff to fit around the new TV. The sizes are different and I have not finished the install)


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I upgraded my Non-Hi Def TV that was factory installed to a a Sony 26". I didnt have to run any wires, just had to reuse what was there. However I shoud tell you that the outlet box installed by Sea Ray was mounted behind the electrical pannel in the cabin, not down in the bilge.

You might want to move that box. It is not a good idea to have 120 volts in the bilge.

Sea Ray also installs a "muff" around the TV to soften the looks. (The picture is before I modified the Muff to fit around the new TV. The sizes are different and I have not finished the install)

Vince,

The 110 VAC outlets are not mounted in the bilge; it is in the locker directly under the helm where the DC fuse blocks are located. For me this was a completely new install as I did not have a TV mounted at that location from the factory, I had to run the wires myself. I needed to get the TV antenna wire from the amplifier over to the TV and since I was pulling wires, I used the existing DVD played and pulled audio/video signals as well. Now all three TV can watch different stations or DVD movies if I wish.

The photo I am showing there is directly under my helm behind the hatch, not in the bilge. Good lord, I am not running 110 VAC in the bilge.

I have already looked into a vinyl material to match the existing vinyl in the cabin. The future plans are to build a frame around the TV and use matching vinyl to cover it. For now it looks good without the frame, but I think it would look better with it, plus add extra support.
 
No I don't, but I think that will be the next project. Should be simple enough.

I don't have the tv and is also on my list however(nice job) I complained to SR that the head light did not work seperatly so the installed a switch just next to the over head lights for free
 
I'm a liitle confused? I don't have 110v under my helm did you put that in? I think you spliced into the 75 ohm antenna by the existing by the galley/master berth? why not from the rear birth tv? HELP looks like you figured it all out for us great pictures, just a more info please!! Great job!!
 
I'm a liitle confused? I don't have 110v under my helm did you put that in? I think you spliced into the 75 ohm antenna by the existing by the galley/master berth? why not from the rear birth tv? HELP looks like you figured it all out for us great pictures, just a more info please!! Great job!!

Yes, I did add a GFI under the helm. Just for the TV installation. That was the first step, so I installed a utility box and ran the cable back and through the wall behind the electrical cabinet. Tied into the ground and neutral bus bar, and wired the hot wire to the existing breaker for the 110 volts outlets. Be sure to use a GFI outlet for this part.

Part two was to get the wires for the antenna and DVD player from the TV by the rear birth around the boat to the location under the helm. I wanted to get the wires to this location because I wanted to use the existing DVD player and leave it in its current location. I am eventually going to take out the TV by the birth and replace it with a wine cabinet, but that’s another project. Getting the wires around is the hard part, but the admiral and I did it in about 4 hours. I chose the “RapidRun” cable (RadioShack) that I described in my first post because it gave me flexibility with the type of TV input/output cable selections. If I ever decide to replace the DVD with something else and I decide to go with a Component Video cable all I have to do is change the plugs on both ends of the RapidRun cable. I bought the 35 foot cable as it was cheaper. 35 foot is just enough to make the entire run.

I will add more details on making this cable run later in this thread when I take some pictures and add details. I will also add the parts list.
 
Beautiful installation! Can you share any information on the type of TV mounting bracket that you attached to the bulkhead?
Warren

I used the Chief Universal Low-Profile mount from Home Depot. There catalog number #100523041. I choose this one because I want a low profile mount to get the TV as close to the wall as possible. My plug jacks for the aux inputs on the TV are recessed so wall clearance was not an issue.
 
great stuff now i got it. i was a litle confuse when i thought you said in your first post that you ran it on the "port side" thats what confused me. I got the 110cv ac outlet and like the rapid run wire. All I need is a little more on cable routing. Did you say you ran the wire thru the ac duct under the master birth? Where is the tap into the rear dvd? Did you pull the dvd player out to expose the wires or remove the rear birth drop down tv to get to the wires? Then on the wire run I assume across the boat under the trim pannels below the helm area but still in the cabin? Thanks for all the help but it seems you got figured out and the help is great. Once again nice install.
 
I don't have the tv and is also on my list however(nice job) I complained to SR that the head light did not work seperatly so the installed a switch just next to the over head lights for free

TopGun - if you have time, could you post (in a separate thread) the details of how you added your switch? Which part # switch you used? Did you cut the vinyl, etc? I've got the bulbs out of mine now as a "temp" fix, but I'd like to get a switch in there.

Thanks,
 
great stuff now i got it. i was a litle confuse when i thought you said in your first post that you ran it on the "port side" thats what confused me. I got the 110cv ac outlet and like the rapid run wire. All I need is a little more on cable routing. Did you say you ran the wire thru the ac duct under the master birth? Where is the tap into the rear dvd? Did you pull the dvd player out to expose the wires or remove the rear birth drop down tv to get to the wires? Then on the wire run I assume across the boat under the trim pannels below the helm area but still in the cabin? Thanks for all the help but it seems you got figured out and the help is great. Once again nice install.

Sorry for the confusion, and my mistake on the “Port” side. The run goes down the Starboard side. I have no idea why I wrote Port side, must have had too much wine that night! Anyway here is some more detail:

Parts List:

Item 1: RapidRun 35 foot cable, RadioShack Cat # 5502430. Price $55.99 1 required
Item 2: RapidRun Composite Video and Stereo wall plates, RadioShack Cat # 55010806. Price $19.99 each. 2 required
Item 3: 50 foot coax antenna cable, any type will do. 1 required
Item 4: Small electrical utility box
Item 5: 110 Volt GFI ,Leviton SmartlockPro GFCI Model #015-07599-00A from Home Depot. $9.75 each, 1 required
Item 6: 15 feet of Triplex 14-3 wire MFG 131512, West Marine $1.65 per foot.
Item 7: TV wall mount, I used the Chief Universal Low-Profile mount from Home Depot. There catalog number #100523041. I choose this one because I want a low profile mount to get the TV as close to the wall as possible. My plug jacks for the aux inputs on the TV where recessed so wall clearance was not an issue.

Special Tools Required:

Cordless screw driver
25 foot electrical fish tape. I had one already but if you don’t Home Depot has them.
Electric drill, and bits and a 1 inch drill or hole saw

As I said getting the RapidRun cable and the 75 ohm coax cable around the boats was the difficult and time consuming part of the project, but it is doable. Getting from the electrical cabinet to the clothes closet is relatively easy when you remove all the access doors in all the cabinets on the starboard side, and the access panel over the starboard side window. Use an electrical fish tape for this, and MAKE SURE YOU TURN YOUR SHORE POWER and BATTERIES OFF. You don’t want to hit anything while running the fish tape into your electrical cabinet. Once in the clothes closet getting the wires down under the bed became a bit harder. I removed the door on the cabinet and then remove the 3 screws on the inside closet right next to the door. This allowed the entire panel to move just enough to get behind it, pull the wires through, and then fish them back under the bed following the air conditioners duct work. Once the cables where through into the air conditioner compartment you are home free. I followed the duct work all the behind the AC unit and all the way around to keep it neat and out of the way of anything. Once on the other side remove the existing TV to gain access to the panel behind it, remove that panel and you can run the fish tape down into the compartment under the bed, and then pull the wires up. Bingo you’re done.
 
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Great posts Bill, I think I speak for all when I say a sincere "THANKS"!
Warren
 
TopGun - if you have time, could you post (in a separate thread) the details of how you added your switch? Which part # switch you used? Did you cut the vinyl, etc? I've got the bulbs out of mine now as a "temp" fix, but I'd like to get a switch in there.

Thanks,

SR/MM put the switch in on warrenty for free in my second year. It seems easy though. The switch is the standard rocker with a rectangular plate for mounting. Thei cut into the vinyle and installed the switch next to the starboard side lite. Seems like they probly remove the starboard light to get to the wires. Then they cut an access/mounting hole about 6" towards starboard (towards the electrical panel) from the starboard light. Then all they did was reach inside to pull down the wires and splice into them. Now those 2 lights work indepedently now I have lights in the head compartment without lighting up the entire cabin. Plus helps viewing tv, when I install that.
 

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