240DA Central Vac Install

[jg300da]

One of the things I miss most from my 300DA was the central vac system that I installed myself. It's amazing how much cleaner you can keep the boat with an onboard system like this. The crumbs and hair and all the other things that seem to collect makes keeping things clean a real chore with a portable dirt devil or the like.
I first considered this install when I had the water issue from my AC condensate and noticed how much room there was in the compartment to the left of the AC unit in the mid cabin. This space is approx. 24" wide x 30" tall x 15" deep. I suspect the 260DA has a space of similar dimensions so this will work for that boat as well. Directly above this area is the seat base for the helm. I had suspected this space was vacant and I confirmed that when I removed the 110v outlet mounted below the helm seat and had a look inside. I also wonder why Searay didn't install some type of access panel here to take advantage of the storage space seeing as how it is already carpeted.

I searched for a way to run the necessary hose and low voltage line from the area next to the AC unit in the mid cabin to someplace accessible in the cabin area but ran into many dead ends, that's when I decided to mount the inlet valve next to the outlet under the helm seat.

This location is ideal as it is just a few feet from the mid cabin compartment below and I could tap into the 110V circuit from the outlet to power the vacuum. Here is a picture of the central vac unit I purchased online. It is the same unit that Searay installs on their larger boats from the factory.

I have installed the inlet valve but I'm still waiting for the unit to arrive. I will continue to update this thread with my progress including lots of pictures as I go along...

 

[RiverRat]

JG, Looks good so far! :thumbsup: Does the canister go in the engine room? Will you have another inlet in the cabin area? If so where?


Inquiring minds want to know... :grin:

 

[jg300da]

Fred,
No, the cannister is going into that space I decribed behind the panel in the mid cabin. I'll post pics of that tomorrow. The vac kit comes with an expandable hose that stretches from 8' to 30', so one inlet is all you need to reach anywhere on the boat.

Joe

 

[RiverRat]

So you will have to take the panel down every time you change a bag in the canister? :huh:

 

[jg300da]

The bag usually doesn't need changing more than once per season, so that shouldn't be a big issue.

 

[Dave S]

Another good idea. :thumbsup:

Is the hose long enough on that vacuum to reach everywhere on the boat? Where do you store the hose? Also, I wonder if there is a way to make the side panel removable without having to use a screw driver each time. That would really make the installation slick.

 

[jg300da]

Dave,
The hose is really neat, it's 8' long but stretches to 30' so it stores in a very small area. I had the same one on my 300DA and it easily reached every area on the boat with room to spare. I figured I would store the hose and attachments in that hanging closet opposite the head where the v-berth cushions are. That space seems perfectly suited for that. My wife had the same idea about changing those 4 screws for something quicker, maybe with a small handle up high to remove the panel.

 

[jg300da]

This is a picture of the space, with the panel removed, where the cannister unit is going.

Looking in from the mid cabin you can see how large this space is. The AC unit is on the right. The helm area is directly above, and from this space you can easily access the space below the drivers seat.
The large dark hose in the background is the waste line from the vaccuflush head running to the waste tank in the bilge. The smaller white hose in front is the AC condensate line running to the sump pump below the stairs.

 

[Dave S]

Not to hi-jack this thread but what did you do to solve the condensate overflow from the A/C?

 

[jg300da]

You can see the base of the AC unit on the right. I elevated the left side of the base 1/2" to produce more of a height difference for the condensate to flow. and clamped the condensate line down (it was wire tied to the vaccuflush waste hose about an 1" above the deck from the factory). I also elevated the right side of the base 1-1/2" to produce more of angle towards the sump pump. This leaves virtually no residual water in the pan. It seems to have worked, and Searay is replacing the water damaged cushions under warranty.

 

[Alex D]

I assume the space is vented very, very well because these vacs put out quite a bit of air when running and their efficiency can be reduced when this air cannot vent readily!

 

[jg300da]

Here is a picture of the finished project.

It fits with plenty of room to spare for access and filter changing.
Everything needed for the installation is included in the kit. I purchased a new inlet valve because I wanted white instead of the factory supplied tan color.
All in all a pretty simple project that one person could do in an afternoon. The only difficult part is snaking the hose and wiring through the boat by yourself. It helps if you have an extra set of hands.

 

[Dave S]

Nice Job JG. :thumbsup:

 

[Inkmann]

I raeally like this project.
What year 240 Dancer are you doing this on?
I don't reconize the panel or anything.
Is the vac capable of picking up a little water?
Is the vacum 12 volt or 110 volt?
Whats the cost for a vacume like this?

 

[jg300da]

Sorry, I just updated my signiture. The 240DA is a 2007, I'm not sure if your boat has the same access panel in the mid cabin. The unit runs on 110 volts. This vac is a dry unit only, although they do sell a wet/dry model as well. The complete kit cost $355.00 plus shipping.