240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Anyone got some pictures of the port wall in the ski locker for a mid-2000's 240SD? Looking at buying a 2006, and it appears to have some gelcoat broken off, and the fiberglass appears a bit damaged. Trying to compare to what it's "supposed" to look like, and determine is this is a major issue or not.

Upload rotated the pictures, when viewing rotate 90 degrees. The mesh is the floor of the ski locker
It kinda looks like the fiberglass mat "slid" down before it was fully cured. The damage is probably just due to skis knocking into it when putting them in the locker. I don't really think it's something to worry about, though. Plus, at 15 years old, if it was a problem, it would have shown by know.
 
Hi, Please let me know your thoughts on this redesign I am considering. I have a 2005 SD with a 350 Mag that has the nightmarishly difficult 90A fuse on the starter.

My problem is that the 90A fuse on the starter has blown and I cannot figure out how to change it without removing engine components... so I got to thinking:

Given that power currently goes from the battery switch to the starter, through the 90A fuse, and then splits with a run to the 50A circuit breaker (red) and to the alternator (orange).

What if I essentially abandoned the 90A fuse on the starter by running a new cable, with a 90A inline fuse, from batter switch to alternator where it ties to the orange going down to the starter as above?

Thanks!
John
 
I don’t think that the wire from the alternator going down to the starter is thick enough.

Best bet is to remove the manifold and riser and you will have much better access to the starter wiring.
 
I don’t think that the wire from the alternator going down to the starter is thick enough.

Best bet is to remove the manifold and riser and you will have much better access to the starter wiring.

Thank you!
 
I don’t think that the wire from the alternator going down to the starter is thick enough.

Best bet is to remove the manifold and riser and you will have much better access to the starter wiring.

Update: redesign works, although I am continuing to test loads with an ammeter. (Not arguing with you, Epos4)
 
Update: redesign works, although I am continuing to test loads with an ammeter. (Not arguing with you, Epos4)
So you are protecting that orange wire off the alternator with a 90 amp fuse?

If so, the current flow through that wire when the starter engages will melt the wire before the 90amp fuse blows.
 
Hi, Please let me know your thoughts on this redesign I am considering. I have a 2005 SD with a 350 Mag that has the nightmarishly difficult 90A fuse on the starter.

My problem is that the 90A fuse on the starter has blown and I cannot figure out how to change it without removing engine components... so I got to thinking:

Given that power currently goes from the battery switch to the starter, through the 90A fuse, and then splits with a run to the 50A circuit breaker (red) and to the alternator (orange).

What if I essentially abandoned the 90A fuse on the starter by running a new cable, with a 90A inline fuse, from batter switch to alternator where it ties to the orange going down to the starter as above?

Thanks!
John
I’m not 100% sure what you’re trying will work but I can tell you I had to change out that 90a fuse on our old 5.0L. It was a huge pain but doable. I had a bruise on my chest for a couple days from laying on the manifold.
 
So you are protecting that orange wire off the alternator with a 90 amp fuse?

If so, the current flow through that wire when the starter engages will melt the wire before the 90amp fuse blows.
Starter is still powered via the 2/0 cable from the battery switch. But I see your point - I need to protect that wire (#8) with some where between a 40A and 70A fuse (rated max power of alternator). I’m not sure how to determine fuse - from wire size or alternator output?

We’re having some debate here on fuse size. I think you are right that I need to size the fuse per the wire size.
 
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Starter is still powered via the 2/0 cable from the battery switch. But I see your point - I need to protect that wire (#8) with some where between a 40A and 70A fuse (rated max power of alternator). I’m not sure how to determine fuse - from wire size or alternator output?

We’re having some debate here on fuse size. I think you are right that I need to size the fuse per the wire size.

Got it. I was having trouble visualizing what you were trying to do.

Your approach makes more sense after I read your last reply. Something to consider, if the original 90 amp breaker is rotted, it’s possible that it may physically come apart and one of the wires could come in contact with some part of the starter or engine block.
 
Hello all, I have bought my 2004 240 SD about 3 years ago from a retired Air Force pilot, and it was immaculate. I can fit my 9 grandkids on her, and we have a blast, a little hectic maybe, but a blast. I just found this forum a little over a week ago, and just read through this 240SD thread. Great info.
Ill be seeing you around.

E2kr6YmXoAI4-fG
 
Got it. I was having trouble visualizing what you were trying to do.

Your approach makes more sense after I read your last reply. Something to consider, if the original 90 amp breaker is rotted, it’s possible that it may physically come apart and one of the wires could come in contact with some part of the starter or engine block.
Agree - that is a concern. From feeling around they currently feel solidly connected and the fuse doesn't have any give to it.

At some point I'll need to pay someone younger/skinnier/more nimble than I to replace it...and as long as they are down there I'll replace the starter. From the pics I was able to get things look a bit rusty down there.

The fuse in my new wire will protect against a short anywhere between battery switch and the 50A breaker.

Thank you for the critical thoughts, I much appreciate them!
 
Hello all, I have bought my 2004 240 SD about 3 years ago from a retired Air Force pilot, and it was immaculate. I can fit my 9 grandkids on her, and we have a blast, a little hectic maybe, but a blast. I just found this forum a little over a week ago, and just read through this 240SD thread. Great info.
Ill be seeing you around.

E2kr6YmXoAI4-fG
Congratulations! The best times are when we have our kids and their friends on the boat. Enjoy it, they grow up way too fast.
 
Anyone know if a fortress FX-11 will fit into the factory anchor clips on a 2006 240SD? Looks like the shaft is 30" total, but I don't have my boat nearby to measure the clip spacing
 
Anyone know if a fortress FX-11 will fit into the factory anchor clips on a 2006 240SD? Looks like the shaft is 30" total, but I don't have my boat nearby to measure the clip spacing
We have West Marine's 13lbs Danforth style on our '07 240SD. I had to cut an inch or so off both sides to get the width small enough to fit in the front anchor locker. It's fits nicely in the factory spot now.
 
New to us 06 240 SD. 380 hours. Runs perfectly. Interior in great shape. Some minor scratches on the graphics. Paid asking price, PM me if you're really curious. Brokered through Silver Tree Marine who fixed minor issues and more. Very happy with them, the sales guy recently moved from mechanic to sales and he knows the boat well. Chose this boat because I love the layout, BIL has a similar Chapparal 26'. Hope I don't have a love/hate relationship. I have a few questions after reading the entire forum, I'll post them as I go.
searay 240 SD.jpg
 
New to us 06 240 SD. 380 hours. Runs perfectly. Interior in great shape. Some minor scratches on the graphics. Paid asking price, PM me if you're really curious. Brokered through Silver Tree Marine who fixed minor issues and more. Very happy with them, the sales guy recently moved from mechanic to sales and he knows the boat well. Chose this boat because I love the layout, BIL has a similar Chapparal 26'. Hope I don't have a love/hate relationship. I have a few questions after reading the entire forum, I'll post them as I go.View attachment 108641
Welcome aboard. You chose a great boat!
 
Had my 04 for 3 seasons now....looking to see what everyone does for yearly maintenance. I obviously change the engine oil, outdrive oil, and have it winterized (in Ohio on Lake Erie). I also get the outdrive pulled to check alignment and have it lubed every season. I had the bottom painted the first year I owned it (stays in water all season) and I had the impeller changed once (two seasons on it now). Late this season, it pretty much died on me and found out the fuel filters were saturated with water...and they pulled a little less than pint of water from fuel tank. I use only non-ethanol fuel and have the fuel treated each season at the end and keep the tank full, thinking maybe the previous owner who trailered to inland lakes used ethanol fuel? In any event, how often does everyone change those? They also replaced plugs and dist cap so its had a good tune-up. What about bellows? They look in great shape to me, but going to ask marina on their thoughts as well. What else do others do as preventative? 350 Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
 
Read with interest that you can move the gas spring on the mid floor hatch in order for it to open at 90 degrees. Anyone accomplish this and if so how.
Thanks
 
Read with interest that you can move the gas spring on the mid floor hatch in order for it to open at 90 degrees. Anyone accomplish this and if so how.
Thanks
You could move either mount - that part is simple enough and pretty self explanatory. The question would be how much closer could you move it. This depends on how close to the "compressed" or "closed" position it already is. Generally speaking, hatches like this often use a 12"/20" (closed/opened) spring. Check the numbers on the spring and/or measure. BUT... that ski locker is so big that you can just have someone lie down in there with a flashlight and measure/check things out while someone else closes the hatch over them.
 

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