2005 340...need to replace or repair tacho's and speedo

S

SWF340

New Member
Dec 26, 2013
129
Florida
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2005
Engines
Horizon 8.1S
It's always something...my awesome mechanic hauled the boat to replace a seal on the prop shaft. Sadly, he left the helm uncovered and facing the sun for a full day of southwest florida sun. My perfect gauges are now burnt. After a lot of reading I'm confident it's not the lenses per se, as everything on all five gauges can easily be read...rather it looks to be localized to the LCD (LED?) display portion versus the analog portion.

My manual has part numbers although I've learned from reading the speedo has a new part number which I now have. I haven't called the dealer yet to see if the tach's have a new part number altho it seems likely they would.

Short of ordering new from the dealer, I'm wondering if anyone knows where to get replacements more cheaply than the dealer...or, where I can send these gauges for repair.

I came back to add this...the 2005 changed part numbers from 1738325 to 1777616 in mid-production. The part "looks" exactly the same...is there a difference?

Thanks!
 
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Sounds like you have the SC1000 Gauge set. Now would be a great time to consider a Vessel View upgrade. Since you have Sea Ray branded gauges, if you cant find them on ebay or flounder pounder you will have to order from the Sea Ray dealer (BIG $$) or go with non-matching Merc gauges. I would recommend you consider replacing with Vessel View and switch the Speedo and TACHs out to System link gauges. You may come out very close price wise.
 
SWF340 said:
I came back to add this...the 2005 changed part numbers from 1738325 to 1777616 in mid-production. The part "looks" exactly the same...is there a difference?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Probably just updated firmware on the gauge or some other internal change by Merc for that gauge. If I had to guess, both of those part number have probably been superseded by now with a newer Sea Ray p/n.
 
Thanks Jason!

I was able to find a new number for the speedo which is 1909621. I'm hoping you're right about the firmware biz because I found a new one out of the box a bit earlier on ebay for a great price. The good thing is I use the speedo the most for syncing engine rpm's.

I still can't find the new tach number so I should call.

Now, on to Vessel View. Logistically, I think the vessel view goes in the area directly behind the wheel...lol, right where my SiTek autopilot is. I'll definitely have to study this a lot more. If I can find a couple of tach's for cheap I'll stay with the old, but if not...maybe the vessel view is the way to go.

Thanks again, Jason.
 
No problem-

The VV would have been installed on the blank panel right behind the steering wheel. I don't know what your helm looks like now but I think the newer VV is smaller so you may be able to have a new panel cut to fit both components. Tecnografic, a sponsorer of this site made the woodgrain panels and can make you one that is an exact match and cut whatever you need in it. Just tell them the SR part number of the blank panel from the manual so they know the correct exterior dimensions (as I recall it is kind of a tombstone shape). The new one is a perfect match. I had one made for a friend who moved from a System View to a VV Gen1.
 
I had Techno do a piece for the Plotter area on the left when I replaced an older Raymarine with a newer. They did a very nice job.

I can't tell which VV is appropriate for the 2004-2005 Smartcraft gauges and the 8.1 Horizon's.
 
SWF340 said:
I can't tell which VV is appropriate for the 2004-2005 Smartcraft gauges and the 8.1 Horizon's.
Click to expand...

You would be best off using one of the Newer Generation Vessel Views. Since you have 8.1 engines, any flavor VV should work fine. kaz did a nice write up on switching to the newer generation Vessel Views. If you are in the market, I recommend you contact Don Weed at European Marine. http://www.europeanmarine.org/ He knows all about this and can talk you through everything once you tell him what you have now. He has great prices too. He is who I used for my friend's VV G1. (G2 was not available at that time).

Keep in mind you would still need to get Sea Ray branded System Link TACH gauges and a speedo but these are generally much cheaper than the SC1000 gauges. Flounder pounder usually has an ample supply.
 
Hey Jason, my current gauges work fine, it's just the lcd part of each that has become difficult to read. Does the Vessel View work with those? I think they might from what I've read but I'm not sure.

Thanks!
 
SWF340 said:
Hey Jason, my current gauges work fine, it's just the lcd part of each that has become difficult to read. Does the Vessel View work with those? I think they might from what I've read but I'm not sure.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Normally, YES but not really in your case- let me elaborate. You could set up the VV as Station 1 and the SC1000 Gauge set as Station 2 and it could work that way. They allow 2 "Stations" on the Smartcraft Network for dual helm applications. You would just have both "Stations" on the same helm. The hard part for you would be re-configuring the SC1000 Gauge set as Station 2: with the LCD screens out, I don't see how you could do it.

As I recall when you mix a VV and SC1000 set in a dual station configuration, the VV must be set as Station 1 but that may have changed with the newer generation VV. That guy Don Weed at European Marine that I mentioned earlier can probably tell you for sure. He was very helpful for me and does not mind talking on the phone. He also gave me better pricing on the gear than I could find anywhere else. He should also be able to answer your DTS/Cruise Control question.
 
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Thanks again, Jason! I created an acct yesterday at European but haven't called yet. I appreciate your help!
 
Just want to recycle this thread with a related question...

I'm away from the boat for another 10 days but want to be prepared when I get there. I'm going to replace the polarizer film on the tachs.

My question is...what is the procedure to remove the gauges on this model?

I have a new old stock speedo so I can see that there is a plug on the back which I expect will be on the tachs, too. Plus, there is what I'll call a retaining bracket, a threaded circular white plastic piece that I imagine secures the gauge to the helm dash.

I think I recall some small screws hold the dash panel in place so again I'm imagining the task is remove the screws, lower the panel, unplug the gauges, unscrew the mounting bracket and voila! I hope it's that simple.

Help please! Thank you.
 
SWF340 said:
Just want to recycle this thread with a related question...

I'm away from the boat for another 10 days but want to be prepared when I get there. I'm going to replace the polarizer film on the tachs.

My question is...what is the procedure to remove the gauges on this model?

I have a new old stock speedo so I can see that there is a plug on the back which I expect will be on the tachs, too. Plus, there is what I'll call a retaining bracket, a threaded circular white plastic piece that I imagine secures the gauge to the helm dash.

I think I recall some small screws hold the dash panel in place so again I'm imagining the task is remove the screws, lower the panel, unplug the gauges, unscrew the mounting bracket and voila! I hope it's that simple.

Help please! Thank you.
Click to expand...

Once you remove the woodgrain dash panel, just unplug the gauge connector, unscrew the white ring and the gauge pops out from the front. Very easy to remove/replace. What are you replacing on the gauges again? They are supposed to be sealed/non-serviceable so if you could find out a way to service them, I'm sure others would like to hear about it as well.
 
Great Jason, thanks! "White ring"...simple, I couldn't think how to describe it.

The tachs and the speedo are Merc SC1000 style so in addition to the analog part there is a digital readout at the bottom. My ex-mechanic left the helm uncovered and the gauges facing the sun for two days resulting in the polarizing film that covers the readout being burned. I haven't seen it done on a Smartcraft gauge, but other boat gauges I've seen taken apart and the film replaced.

To replace all three gauges with non sea ray logo sc1000's is about $1000. I refuse to believe that other gauges can be repaired but not these...absolutely no offense to you Jason, please. As it is, I have a new old stock speedo I picked up $150, and two SC100 tachs for $100 each. The speedo readout provides the rpm's (should we say r'spm, like baseball now says r'sbi? :smt009) for both engines which is all I'm really after, so not having the digital portion on the tachs isn't essential. And, I am considering the vessel view option as well. So, if I can't replace the film in the tachs then I have the SC100's and the SC1000 tach and I can go from there.

Thanks again Jason, your reply really helped. Now I know I can easily get to the gauges and remove and replace them. In the meantime, I'm going to research more about disassembling this type/brand of gauge.

If I'm able to, btw, I'll definitely post the results and the procedure, because given the number of views here and on my other thread, you're right...I'm sure a lot of people would like to know.
 
Well I can't upload pics because even one less than 100 KB's exceed my quota somehow. I can't even find what pics I have posted but didn't think any. So you get an explanation instead.

First and foremost, the SC100 series are sealed from the back. They don't have the digital readout so I'm not concerned with that but it confirms what you said Jason, they are sealed. Here is one for sale on ebay that shows the back of the unit. No way in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-79-...em-Link-Multifuction-Boat-Gauge-/141689967435

However, the SC1000 series is much different. Here's a link on ebay that lets you see the back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Sma...21-Boat-7000-RPM-Tachometer-Kit-/191725224187

Note the blue cover has three star screws. Those require a T10 driver to remove. Easy peasy.

No more pictures...

Once the blue cover is off, the motherboard is right there....and to my dismay there are three more star screws that require..... a T9 driver...so back to the hardware store... :smt001

Once those screws are removed the motherboard is free to be removed with would expose the LCD screen EXCEPT..... any guess?.... that's right the analog needle on the front of the face prevents removal!!! Dangit!! So now, I have to figure out how to get on from the front after I carefully remove the chrome bezel.
 
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Okay removing the chrome bezel is a bear. If I knew how it went on.... time for a main forum question.
 
I am very close to solving this problem. It's tedious but probably more so the first time... you know, like building the first swing set for your kids. Once finished, you've figured out the tricks and could do another one in half the time.

I'm working on an SC100 tach as my learning piece. With the help of Henry Boyd I was able to figure out how to get the bezel off. The next problem was the lens. I read a thread that said once the bezel is off the lens comes right off. Not the SC100 or SC1000 models. There are a bunch of horizontal slots around the housing for lens tabs to insert into thus keeping the lens in place. The housing is rigid plastic as is the lens. I noticed two areas on either side of the lens that didn't have slots. The lens is flat there providing a nice entry point for your prying tool.

I don't have a prying tool, but I was able to use a laminated card to get in there and slide across the slots, freeing up about three tabs and remove the lens. Maybe if I had firmly gripped the lens with my fingers and squeezed I could have released some slots that way. I'll give that a try later.

Next step was removing the needle. On the SC100 model the needle and black hub are one piece that simply push on to a spindle coming through the face. Saying "simply" now is pretty brave but when you don't have a clue how to get it off, deciding to gently pull with increasing pressure wasn't easy. Anyway, that was the ticket. On the SC1000 if I get this far I should be golden.
 
The SC1000 has proven more difficult to get the lens off. And, since the speedo I have is the replacement, I don't want to screw it up. I'll wait until I get to the boat this weekend and can work on the tachs that are already messed up.

I bought one of those cell phone repair kits for ab0ut $7. It has a few different prying tools that are thin and really makes it easy to remove the bezel without bending it. Funny though, the most valuable tool in the kit has been the "triangular prying tool".... more commonly known as a guitar pick..! I only have one but I'm able to slide it between the two slots and tabs. Today, I'm going to the music store to get a bulk bag of 10 for $2 so I can work them in around the housing and hopefully be able to remove the lens. The kit also supplies a little suction cup which should be handy to pull the lens off once I get the picks in place.

You know...$289 each for two tachs is starting to sound reasonable! :smt101
 
Well, darn!

But first....jason...you were dead on accurate. Unscrew the dash and there everything was. Neat and plug-and-play ready. The new old stock speedo plugged in, synced up and voila! Ready to go. I also noticed that the harnesses for the tachs had the necessary SC100 Link harness attached in case I go that way.

Okay so... the lens is an absolute bear to get off. I ended up breaking a few of the tabs but really that wouldn't have been a problem later. There is a nice rubber? seal that would have kept moisture out and enough tabs were intact to be secure.

Took off the lens on the burned speedo, popped off the needle. Turned gauge over and removed the back. Now, with the needle off, I could pull the motherboard away and expose the lcd screen. Pulled that out and peeled off the polarizing film....ONLY TO FIND THAT THE FILM WAS FINE AND THE LCD WAS BURNED..!!! :smt089 Lol!!! Oh well. But, I did learn that the unti can be disassembled, it just isn't very easy at all. The two tachs look exactly the same so they stayed put for now.

Interesting to note....when the NAV lights are on and thus the dash lights are on....I can see the tach readouts fairly well. Yeah it's through a brownish hue, but it's fairly easy to read.

Anyway, I'll keep searching for two new or used SR logo tachs, or break down and get two new Mercs, or hook up the SC100's and go with the Vessel View. But, as I said, the speedo gives me digital rpm's for both engines and that's all I really needed.
 
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