2001 410 Sundance Cherrywood repair.

LG111

Active Member
Jan 4, 2015
730
NW
Boat Info
44 Sedan Bridge - 07
Black Hull
Engines
QSC500’s
Hi, I am new to the SR site and would like to share my latest project. I repaired damaged delaminated areas on my cabinets. However, I can't get the pictures to upload and save. What is the trick? Is it a maximum file size or something else?

LG

Mark
 
The website seems to be very picky about file size and format. I have found it is much easier to upload photos to photobucket and post images from there.
 
Pictures of Mark's project. I'll let him give the details.
-John
 

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What an improvement!

Welcome to CSR
 
Thanks John for posting my pictures! You were a huge help guiding me thru this project!!! Restorationmarine.com is a perfect match and very pleasant work with!!!!

Here is my story... And I have never done any type of laminate work!

I suggest buying the Makita RT0701C 1-1/4 HP Compact Router.
Home Depot for $100! The bit was $20... However, where the cabinet curves in I had to use a fine razor blade carefully (the craft type that snaps), then palm sander all edges.

The steps were easy...

Friday afternoon.
1) Once I got and edge up from the cracked area lifted, the entire old sheet peeled right off. I did not have to remove the gold trim. The original panel was cut just below it with clear silicone.
2) I used the old panel as a template for the top cut along the gold trim area and the right vertical cut along the padded wall. The bottom and the left vertical sides were the overhangs and future cuttings to fit.
3) The cabinet surface was left with a layer of the old paper. I used a wet sponge to get the paper off. It rolled and fell off as I scrubbed it.
4) Then I used my palm sander with 400 until smooth.
5) I practiced putting the new material on the cabinet to get the right angle and technique before I glued. I had one shot to get the top and right side to adhere in the correct location as I wrapped the material to the left. After 5 or so practice runs I was ready!

Saturday morning:
6) I taped off the entire area. Including the area the router would touch so it would not mar up the underside of the cabinet.
7) The brushed the glue on evenly, ensuring every part had glue. Especially the edges and corners.
8) 10 min later the peeled 5 inches of the white backing off the new material and starter at the padded area following my procedure I practiced on.
9) Over the 20 Inches, moving right to left, I would peel and press every 5 inches to ensure no air gaps or funny bends would develop.
10) When I got to the end (left side) I trimmed the last major part off and left the top and bottom connecting points to overlap the original good material about 1/2". Leaving the white paper on and let the new overlap the original. Then carefully cut both layers at the same time. The area was small, so I used the tip of the knife to clean the old glue/paper off, applied glue and waited 10 min. Then pealed the white backing off the joining points and BOOM then snapped right into place!!!
11) I spent the next 5 minutes pressing the entire area to ensure everything was smooth and well contacted.
12) Went to lunch for an hour!!!
13) At this point I router'd the edges and then sanded them smooth/ flush to the edge of the cabinet. Remember I taped the edges, so the sander did not hurt the real wood edge stain.
14) Pulled all the tape and re-taped the top edge and applied a small bead of clear silicone below the gold trim and 1/16" edge to the new material. Pulled tape for super clean edge.
15) Cleaned up and marveled at the end result!!!

Note: If you zoom in on the finished product, there are two points I like to make. 1) Can you see the cut joints new to old... NOPE! 2) The white edge between the door and the new material. I could not get the last small amount of glue off without harming the real wood edge stain. It was very thin residue so I bought a cherry colored stain-stick and colored it to match. Now it's invisible!!!

Total time for me (one guy) was about 6 hours. Though I took my time!!!
I am now confident I could to the entire cabinet if I had to... :)

Thanks Again John!

Mark

 
What was the Formica you used to replace the old one, do you have the Firmica name and number?
thank you
fernando.
 
Nice job. I've contemplated changing our white cabinetry to a darker variety - but then the reality of it all kicked in. Looks good.....
 
Nice job, that gives some of us confidence to do similar repairs!
 
Look up Restoration Marine.com. They manufacture the original sea ray cherry laminate. My understanding for those that have white can directly apply the cherry right over it. It's really a very easy job. Just do one door and trim at a time. They have a video they can share with you on how to apply. I have never done laminate work or router. It was very easy after I practiced on one door.

LG
 
Really nice job! I also have this discoloration. Is it moisture? Why does this happen? I am a interested in doing this.
 
The over all cost was in the material. Go to restoration marine website. Dementions and cost listed there. I bought two 24x24 or 36x36 can't remember, but enough to cover two small areas. All in all well under 300 for all the supplies. Plus 100 for the compact router. 5 star service from restoration and 100% color match!

Water damage is from moisture on top of the cabinets. Port light.... Water wicks under the black cap to the laminate edge. Then delamites the clear coat and the paper picture which resembles wood. It's not wood. It's an image with a hard clear plastic coating. Sanding and staining is not an option.

Highly suggest running a bead of clear sealant on the top edge of the cabinet behind the black cap. Sealing off the chance for water damage on the top edges of the high gloss faux wood. Even if you have no damage yet.... seal it!!!



Mark
 
That looks amazing.
Can you please post a photo as to where the sealant should go. I think it would be beneficial for everyone here.

Thanks.
 

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