1997 400 Sundance Home Made Hardtop

Dec 8, 2007
1,139
Dartmouth MA
Boat Info
1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
Engines
:
Apologies to those who have seen this in the 400 410 section. I have reposted it here because i have started back working on it and I have opinions to ask. It will be easier here as a different thread. With more eyes on it.


I need another winter project like I need a hole in my head. Anyway, here it is.
I decided to make a jig that fit the shape of the arch. This was used to lay core material over in the correct shape.
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I then glassed and gelcote the core. This will be sanded smooth, flat spots rounded Andre gelcoted

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Glass applied to core.

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Part pulled off leading edge of arch attached to top not yet trimmed.

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Final shape to top.

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Top with external supports to stiffen it up for test fit on boat. More glass and core trim needs to be applied to the inside.

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test fit on boat. It will appear thicker after inside trim/stiffening core is applied. Final edge thickness should be about 1 1/4

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inside core being applied. I still have a long way to go. The outside still needs more sanding, shaping and gel cote.
 
Inside core and outside edge applied. I still haven’t gotten discouraged and thrown it in the dumpster! More shaping glassing and gelcote still left before I can flip it over.

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Just thought I would post an update.
Core applied to underside for rigidity and looks.
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Gel coat rolled on.
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Board sander ready for another coat.
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Topside leading edge lip getting glassed. And adding more core at point of attachment to arch.
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Update. I still have not thrown it in the dumpster. It is a never ending process of gel cote, sand, fill and repeat. I like to do the sanding outside, however with it snowing I don’t think I will get anything done today
 
I am waiting on the color matched gel coat I ordered to come in. I would like to hear some opinions on my method of attachment. The aft edge of the top is the profile of the leading edge of the hard top. You can see it in the photos below
54B52D94-8DD6-4243-B5EA-54D1E95D3229.jpeg
9BC097FB-7961-41B4-BD7F-43E44C3C3028.jpeg
AFC90734-6D48-4FDD-9065-B96C168210FD.jpeg



The plan has been, and still is, to bend up an aluminum support attached at the front of the top like you see on most factory installs. This will attach to the boat just inside the center windscreen.

Here is the grey areas:
1). The back of the top (leading edge of the arch) was going to be either glued in with 5200 or thickened polyester resin. OPINIONS on that?

2) if there is a failure of the chemical bond, the top can’t go forward due to the aluminum support. However, it can come crashing down on my head where it attaches to the arch. In heavy seas that could be deadly.

Possible solution was to glass 1/2” stainless pins sticking out of the top in the contoured edge that mates up to the arch. They would not bolt into the arch. just slide in a 1/2” hole in the leading edge of the arch and provide a method or keeping the back of the top from falling down in the event of a failure. Of the chemical bond. The photo below shows 4 pieces of blue painters tape where I would put them. I would prefer just glassing in the two closest to the center to make it easy. But would bite the bullet and do four. Any thoughts on this?

Note: If you look closely at an above photo you can see a hollow fiberglass tube sticking out the center of the contoured part of the top. That is to run wires for lights. That is similar to what I would do with the stainless pins.
I look forward to ANY thoughts or ideas!

2A932A89-1255-4143-B7FA-2BE5F4D0A0DD.jpeg
 
Wow, great job. That is going to look awesome. I am impressed with your work. I can’t wait to see it floating around OB.
 
I am waiting on the color matched gel coat I ordered to come in. I would like to hear some opinions on my method of attachment. The aft edge of the top is the profile of the leading edge of the hard top. You can see it in the photos below
View attachment 102780 View attachment 102781 View attachment 102782


The plan has been, and still is, to bend up an aluminum support attached at the front of the top like you see on most factory installs. This will attach to the boat just inside the center windscreen.

Here is the grey areas:
1). The back of the top (leading edge of the arch) was going to be either glued in with 5200 or thickened polyester resin. OPINIONS on that?

2) if there is a failure of the chemical bond, the top can’t go forward due to the aluminum support. However, it can come crashing down on my head where it attaches to the arch. In heavy seas that could be deadly.

Possible solution was to glass 1/2” stainless pins sticking out of the top in the contoured edge that mates up to the arch. They would not bolt into the arch. just slide in a 1/2” hole in the leading edge of the arch and provide a method or keeping the back of the top from falling down in the event of a failure. Of the chemical bond. The photo below shows 4 pieces of blue painters tape where I would put them. I would prefer just glassing in the two closest to the center to make it easy. But would bite the bullet and do four. Any thoughts on this?

Note: If you look closely at an above photo you can see a hollow fiberglass tube sticking out the center of the contoured part of the top. That is to run wires for lights. That is similar to what I would do with the stainless pins.
I look forward to ANY thoughts or ideas!

View attachment 102783
I think the idea of SS pins is a good one. Is that lower lip of the contour fairly solid? Could you screw through that into the original arch almost like the rub rail hull and deck joint? If you glue it with epoxy, pin it with SS pins and screw the edge I would think it would be a solid joint.
 
I think the idea of SS pins is a good one. Is that lower lip of the contour fairly solid? Could you screw through that into the original arch almost like the rub rail hull and deck joint? If you glue it with epoxy, pin it with SS pins and screw the edge I would think it would be a solid joint.
Thank you. Believe it or not, I hadn’t thought of adding screws to the lip. I would have to think of a way to hide them. Then again if I just use a few, say six, that might look okay. Food for thought.
 
Thank you. Believe it or not, I hadn’t thought of adding screws to the lip. I would have to think of a way to hide them. Then again if I just use a few, say six, that might look okay. Food for thought.
I think it would look ok if you countersunk and used oval head screws
 
That’s quite the garage you are in...what are the columns holding up ?
 
Thank you. Believe it or not, I hadn’t thought of adding screws to the lip. I would have to think of a way to hide them. Then again if I just use a few, say six, that might look okay. Food for thought.
You can just put white screw caps on them & I'd bet no one would notice. Just a thought.
 
I went ahead and glassed in four bolts into the top that will slide into the arch. Does anyone have an opinion on glassing it to the top vs 5200? I would really like to hear some opinions on one vs the other
 
Looks great. Nice work on the profile. Fits the arch and the boat perfectly.
 

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