1997 330 Sundancer instrument panel replacement

LMBoat said:
Scott,

How thick are your new panels? As you know, the orginals are thin and prone to breakage <as shown in your pics>.

Thanks
Larry
A little thicker but made from much more rigid material, I use a panel grade acrylic for a backing, very sturdy when bolted in. the olds ones craked most due to the uv damage, the ones I have are like an eggshell now.
 
Here is another set I did for a customer and member here, he wanted the searay logo on the gauges panel. These are covered with the protective film so they to not look shiny like they are supposed to

P1010100.jpg
 
ScottC,

Nice work! I wish I knew about you a couple years ago when I was re-designing the helm on my 26. I ended up using solid teak and teak veneer. Took about a dozen layers of varnish with meticulous sanding between each coat to get the finish I wanted.
 
I now have a few more panels here for duplication so stay tuned I will have quite the assorment available very soon
 
This morning I sent Scott a check for the two panels on my 1997 330DA. I talked with a lot of printing and graphics people in the Chicago area. Either they weren't set up to do the work and/or they offered something that didn't suit. I should have the new panels sometime after April 1st. I'll let you know how things go. JS
 
Folks,

After a couple of emails, I ordered from Scott either the day he posted the pics or the day after. I received the panels, an exact match on layout to the originals, In about 10-days. I haven't swapped them yet as I haven't had the time, but the panels are gorgeous and very substantial. I am very pleased with the quality. Much, much better than the OEM panels.

I did pull the original panels out to judge the dificulty involved. The instrument panel is the simplest but challenging to get to because of where it is (way up there) and the limited harness length. The switch panel, while easy to get to is very complicated, and removing the existing switches is not easy. To make it easier I ordered a complete set of new replacement switches from Wes-Garde Components (referred by tech at Carling Technologies). A full set plus one extra of each of the six switch types (total 22 switches) cost an average of $8/switch (some more, some less). It will be much easier to move wires than to try to move switches.
 
Easier to move wires than switches. That confuses me, but I haven't seen my "new" boat but a few times. I just thought you removed- unscrewed the panel - pulled it forward - undid each switch - replaced with the new panel - put each switch back - replaced the now new panel and now connected switches (old or new).

I'm sure it will be clear when I get back home and see the boat and new panel. But will I then want new switches???? Just in case, Eric, please share any contact info you think useful at Wes-Garde Components. Thanks, JS
 
Divedaddy said:
Folks,

After a couple of emails, I ordered from Scott either the day he posted the pics or the day after. I received the panels, an exact match on layout to the originals, In about 10-days. I haven't swapped them yet as I haven't had the time, but the panels are gorgeous and very substantial. I am very pleased with the quality. Much, much better than the OEM panels.

I did pull the original panels out to judge the dificulty involved. The instrument panel is the simplest but challenging to get to because of where it is (way up there) and the limited harness length. The switch panel, while easy to get to is very complicated, and removing the existing switches is not easy. To make it easier I ordered a complete set of new replacement switches from Wes-Garde Components (referred by tech at Carling Technologies). A full set plus one extra of each of the six switch types (total 22 switches) cost an average of $8/switch (some more, some less). It will be much easier to move wires than to try to move switches.


thanks Eric, I appreciate the kind words. I have just ordered more of the burl material so i wil have plenty of stock to make them, I am makeing a full plug and play 330 switch panel including new el lighting. When it is done I will post pics witht he switches in and it lit up. I will also have the 400 series panels done very soon and I finished up a panel for Marine Max that don;t know off the top of my head what model. I will say one thing, you SeaRay owners are serious about your boats hahah :grin: I will be posting pics of all of them, as long as you guys do not mind.
 
Nice work... I've been wanting to redo the main switch panal on my 480 DB because 4 of the labels are not correct (older options like emergency shut off, etc.) and there are blanks there I would like to use for other stuff. If you go to the virtual marina and look at the shot of my dash, you can see the "duds" on the middle row of the lower left panal.

Yes... It seems people are addicted and anal about their boats here... I had a diesel mechanic in my engine room the other day and he said "wow... this is too clean".
 
Four Suns said:
Nice work... I've been wanting to redo the main switch panal on my 480 DB because 4 of the labels are not correct (older options like emergency shut off, etc.) and there are blanks there I would like to use for other stuff. If you go to the virtual marina and look at the shot of my dash, you can see the "duds" on the middle row of the lower left panal.

Yes... It seems people are addicted and anal about their boats here... I had a diesel mechanic in my engine room the other day and he said "wow... this is too clean".


I just took a look, I could make you whatever you like including putting your boat name or whatever graphic you might want on them. I could make a matching plate for the panel under the helm as well. I can engrave any text and it all will be able to be back lit for night viewing.. There is really no end to it.
 
Divedaddy said:
bliss said:
---so about $225 to $275 in all on the switches??

Mine has 16 switches in six types. I ordered all 16 plus one extra of each types, total 22, for $165 including shipping.


did you buy exact replacements? If so could I truble you for a copy fo the layout, I have a drawing here but I would like somthing to compare it to, like for instance which switches are spst and spdt and so on, I need to build a panel that will plug directly into the existing harness so this would help be tremendously.

Thanks
 
Scott,

If I can remember I will send you an Excel spreadsheet tonight with the switch info in it. Will that do?

Most of the switch specifics are available in the Sea Ray Parts catalog for the model. To get the right switches I used the Sea Ray parts numbers with Wes-Garde who is the Carling Distributor that supports Sea Ray. They were able to use that to get the exact replacements, they even have the SR part number stenciled on them. The designations stenciled on the switches by Carling are not, of themselves, sufficient to specify the replacement - they only include a portion of the part number. And at least two of the switches (Port and Starboard ignition switches) are not standard - they are something unusual that was made to a Sea Ray spec.

The actuators are sold separately. There is also an inexpensive tool that is needed to get the actuators off without breaking them - I bought one under the Blue Sea Systems label.

If you need any other info on the switch stuff, send me an email - I assume you still have my address in your file.
 
Divedaddy said:
Scott,

If I can remember I will send you an Excel spreadsheet tonight with the switch info in it. Will that do?

Most of the switch specifics are available in the Sea Ray Parts catalog for the model. To get the right switches I used the Sea Ray parts numbers with Wes-Garde who is the Carling Distributor that supports Sea Ray. They were able to use that to get the exact replacements, they even have the SR part number stenciled on them. The designations stenciled on the switches by Carling are not, of themselves, sufficient to specify the replacement - they only include a portion of the part number. And at least two of the switches (Port and Starboard ignition switches) are not standard - they are something unusual that was made to a Sea Ray spec.

The actuators are sold separately. There is also an inexpensive tool that is needed to get the actuators off without breaking them - I bought one under the Blue Sea Systems label.

If you need any other info on the switch stuff, send me an email - I assume you still have my address in your file.


I stock the carling line of switches as well so I should have everything I need but I just need to double check. the spreadsheet would be a nice thing to have, but I was hoping you had a drawing or picture of the back fo the panel. thanks I appreciate your help. Also I ordered some halon indicators.
 
Divedaddy said:
Scott,

You've got mail!

I sure do, THANKS! what a nice spreadsheet, it is exactly what I needed, you cured a huge headache for me Eric. anything you need in the future will get special pricing :wink:
 
Ours has held up pretty well. We had a piece of canvas made to go over the entire console. It velcoros over the compas, velcros over the throttles and we have a strap\snap around the chrome bar to the left of the steering wheel. Keeping it covered has helped with fading a lot.
 
We have had the custom sunbrella cover over our dash for as long as we've owned it (4 years), and I believe the previous owner used it as well. But the panels are still somewhat faded.

These that Scott makes look great, and are a lot cheaper than what the dealer had quoted me a couple years back.

It's one of those "cosmetic things" that I'd like fixed, but I can still buy a bunch of gas for the cost of replacement. Well, actually, it isn't a "bunch" of gas like it used to be :grin:
 
I have the same problem.

Have you tried to get new panels from Sea Ray?

Here are the OEM Part numbers:

#919308 - Gauge Panel
#769281 - Swich Panel
#772285 - Control Staion Breaker Panel
 

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