I am looking at purchasing my first boat (I have used a friends boat for years!) It is a 1997 290 Sundancer with a single 502 Bravo III. It has 402 hours and has been kept up in mint condition. No generator which is not a deal breaker. Is there any major issues I should be concerned with on this year/model? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
1997 290 sundancer
- Thread starter Flash
- Start date
CV-23
Active Member
- Jun 25, 2010
- 1,891
- Boat Info
- 1990 270 Sundancer, 2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 Limited
- Engines
- 454 merCruiser w/Bravo 1
Sea Ray is not listing the 502 as an available option for that year? It may use some oil due to piston ring isses but that's no big deal. I would rather have the 502 than two 4.3's but that's just me. Your looking at a 9' 8" beam...a bit wider and longer than mine with a 454. Should be a nice runner, Mike.
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/company1729/1C1_27_74DERNSXL908.pdf
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/company1729/1C1_27_74DERNSXL908.pdf
mrcoolgli
New Member
I just bought a 1994 290.. . Couple of things we found and I was looking for. I am not sure if your year model has the same issue but apparently there is a defect in some models on the aft bulkhead cracking under stress. I think you can look for it on the outside about 115 inches from the stern. Look for stress cracks. Ours was perfect. Also we had to have the generator rebuilt because there was no flap in the exhaust to keep water from rushing back into the engine when stopping after being under way. Your main engine should have these too, but they are hard to check since they are in the exhaust bellows. Your generator flap will be visible from the back of the boat. One last thing, on the front of the boat where your anchor line is stored, there should be a drain that goes overboard. Make sure it's always clear, or the water will back up and flood the inside of your boat.
I have posted this list many times and much of it will apply to the boat you are considering.
1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)
2 – Props okay?
3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other
4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced (3 to 4K)
5 - Maintenance records available?
6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.
7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.
8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$750...no kidding.
9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.
10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.
11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected
12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 5200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?
13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.
14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?
15 - When was impeller last changed?
16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)
17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.
18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.
19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.
20 - Toilet work?
21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.
22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it investigate further.
23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.
24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.
1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)
2 – Props okay?
3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other
4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced (3 to 4K)
5 - Maintenance records available?
6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.
7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.
8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$750...no kidding.
9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.
10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.
11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected
12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 5200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?
13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.
14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?
15 - When was impeller last changed?
16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)
17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.
18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.
19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.
20 - Toilet work?
21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.
22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it investigate further.
23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.
24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.
Sadler
Member
- Nov 29, 2006
- 907
- Boat Info
- 2005 Nordic Tugs 37 FB
Mercury RIB dinghy with Honda 2 hp 4 stroke,
sold: 1997 290DA,
- Engines
- Cummins QSB 380
The 1997 model year of the 290 is a great choice, and as far as I know has no major issues. Quint's list is a good one, carefully check everything on his list, and you'll be good to go. You might also check the bilge pumps, the stove, the microwave, and water heater for operation, as well as when you try flushing the toilet listen to see that the vacuum pump cuts off after 20 seconds or so. The '97 by the way got the raised canvas with eisenglas panels above the windshield in front (great for extra visibility when driving with the canvas up), a vacuflush head (the raw water heads can smell if used in salt water), I believe a windlass as standard equipment, and updated interior. There were actually two different hulls offered in 1997--the "original" hull like you see in Quint's and my photo where the radar arch leans backwards, and a new wider and heavier hull which had the radar arch leaning forward. My comments are directed towards the "old" hull, since I don't know that much about the "new" hull.
