1988 Sorrento Floor and stringer job.

patchkit123

patchkit123

Member
Dec 9, 2008
165
Ballwin Mo.
Boat Info
1988 Sorrento S23 bow rider
Engines
5.7 260hp with R M/R alpha 1 outdrive
I just bought this boat last october. The previous owner installed a new floor and carpet over this mess. He also covered a rotted out skii storage area in the floor. I need new stringers and a new floor and maybe a transom. I will be able to look closer at the transom after I remove the stringers. I am prepared for the worst. I was wondering about putting the foam back in the boat. I know it is there for safety reasons. How much does it help on sound deadening? The guy that is helping me says I am better off without it because of the drain system in the floor he wants to install. He said he wants to wrap all the new wood in resin before installing. He said all of the wood will be wrapped and the foam would obstruct the water flow. He also said because it is a bow rider that water will get in the floor area at one point in time and he wants it to drain back to the bildge. So i guess foam or no foam is the main ?? I am leaning towards putting it back in for sound reasons.
 
Looks like you have quite a job there - good luck!

About the foam, I asked a similar question a while ago, whether or not the foam is required for flotation. Lots of mixed answers out there. Here is the thread: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15200 It looked like flotation is required in boats 20' or less, so yours is exempt. I was at the Detroit boat show last weekend and talked with some folks about this too. The rep. there from the CG said that there was NO flotation requirements for any boat while another sales rep there said that any boat with a capacities tag riveted near the helm meets basic flotation requirements. Confusing, I know. I don't think you will ever get into legal trouble without the foam, and MAYBE the boat will float when swamped if you put it all in. If I were you, I would leave it out for simplicity and to keep your buddy happy.

Also, laminating fiberglass over the plywood in the floor is the right way to do it, but if you keep the boat indoors when not in use I would skip that step and get treated plywood. I don't see the sense in putting the extra time and money into the floor when it will prob. outlast the boat with just treated plywood. But that is just me, and the best way is to lam. it with fiberglass.
 
Thanks for the reply. I read the thread and enjoyed it. He wants to wrap all of the stringers and all other wood with resin. I am really wondering about the sound deadening of the foam.
 
I would highly suggest using the foam. Sea Ray used it for sound deadening, structural integrity, and to prevent fumes from accumulating in the voids. Also, should you strike a submerged object, the foam will significantly reduce the liklihood you penetrate the hull, and drastically reduce the rate at which you take water if you do.

I would build it back the way Sea Ray did, but use something like poplar or oak for the stringers and bulkheads. I would fiberglass every bit of the new wood. Resin only is pretty short term.

It is a big job. I have done one similar. It is not terribly expensive or difficult to do yourself, but it is very, very time consuming and requires a lot of precautions for personal safety.
 
The foam is not only used for flotation, but it provides structural rigidity. A hull without foam will flex unless it's backed by the foam. It also provides floor support. Install the foam.

When you install the new stringers, prep the surrounding areas with a grinder so that the new resin/glass will adhere properly. Each layer of glass should be larger than the previous. Do not let the layers of glass dry between application. It should all be done in one layup. Also, use epoxy vs. polyester resins. Epoxy will bond to just about everything whereas polyester will only bond to specific substrates. Unless you're 100% certain what was used originally, it just pays to use epoxy.

Doug
 
These pictures remind me of one of my favorite quotes from another guy at this site (or maybe the old SRO site)...

"This boat was built by mortal men and it can be repaired by the same"

I would agree to use the foam along with a ton of glass cloth and resin on all the new wood.

Good luck, sure looks like you know what you are doing.
 
They know more than me - especially Keokie has experience on this stuff - use the foam.
Can he spray it out of an expanding can, or does he need to cut pieces of rigid foam?
 
berth control said:
They know more than me - especially Keokie has experience on this stuff - use the foam.
Can he spray it out of an expanding can, or does he need to cut pieces of rigid foam?
Click to expand...

Neither.

For the amount of foam that you will need, purchase 2 part expanding foam in either 2lb density or 4lb density (I would order the 2lb density in a 16lb kit). There's a part A and a part B. Mix them up in small batches, and pour fast. Once the foam rises, let the foam set for a few minutes, and mix the next batch. Once you get to a greater height than your floor, take a small wood saw and cut the foam level with the top of the stringer. Finally lay your flooring and fiberglass the seams.

I order all my fiberglass, resin, and foam products from www.uscomposites.com

If you need any further help, let me know.

Doug

Edit: For your job I would recommend:

1. Epoxy Resin, Fast Curing 4:1 in the 2 gallon kit - Part # EPOX-635414 - $103.00
2. Expanding Eurethan Foam, 2lb density, 16lb kit - Part # FOAM-0216 - $62.00
3. Glass, use DBM 1208 Kyntex Biaxial, 12 oz stiched @ 45 degrees, 50" width - Part # FG-120850 (specify the # of yards when you order - maybe 10 yards?) - $7.75 x 10 = $77.50
4. 8 oz w/ beaker plastic cups - great for measuring (better than pumps for epoxy), 25 count - Part # CON-C08 - $5.50
5. Quart mixing cups - great for mixing foam and epoxy - Part # CON-MM032 (specify # of cups - recommend 25 count) - $.55 x 25 = $13.75
6. Mixing sticks, 25 count - Part # GLV-PS050 - $3.95
7. 2" disposable brushes, count 24 - Part # BR-TA20B - $12.25
8. Fiberglass Roller, 3/8" dia, 5" long - Part # FR-1215A - $7.80

It's your call if you decide to go with marine plywood or not. It can be hard to source and it's expensive. If you decide to use regular lumber, use exterior 1" plywood for the floor and 2x8" (or whatever your stringer height is) cut to length for the stringer. In addition to the piece of stringer that you're replacing, add in a sister piece on the side. Glass over the entire section with 2 - 3 layers of glass. I would also use a single layer of glass on the floor to provide extra rigidity and seal the entire floor with a thin coat of epoxy before it's installed. If you are going to add glass to the floor, I would order a lighter glass vs. the 12 oz. that I specified above. It tends to suck up a lot of resin. I would then glass in the seams for the floor after installation.
 
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Wow! Thank you all very much. I can't tell you how much I appreciate all of the help. I am learning a ton. After reading the post, I will use the foam for sure. I will use some one inch pvc pipe in the floor to drain any water that gets in the bow area under the seats. That way the foam will not block the water flow to the bildge from the ski locker and bow. The foam question now seams like a no brainer. Thanks again.
 
DUed, how much did you pay for the boat? How much to replace all this? Unless you are looking for a grueling project or feel like emptying your wallet, why not just but a new boat???
 
Mike Tyson said:
DUed, how much did you pay for the boat? How much to replace all this? Unless you are looking for a grueling project or feel like emptying your wallet, why not just but a new boat???
Click to expand...

I paid 2800.00 for the boat and trailer. I will have about 2500.00 in repairs. I like older boats and I think this one has some nice lines and I liked the curved windshield. My wife is saying things like "are you out of your mind." If I was paying for all of the labor I think I would have about 5000.00 in repairs. Thanks for looking and your input.
 
In a hot climate, that 2 part epoxy foam starts to expand right as you mix it. To prevent this, cool the components in the fridge.

When we used the foam, we calculated the volume needed and mixed accordingly with a few percent extra. We poured it into completed compartments with appropriately placed 1 inch escape holes. This allows for a "perfect" fit. Simply cut the overflow foam after it cures and patch the holes. Beware, if you overdo it with the foam, it will burst the compartment. A little too much will come out the escape holes, but way too much cannot be stopped.
 
Things are coming right along. She is almost ready for the new wood.
 
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This is in the bow. This is where John had to work some magic. This is a open bow boat but its not really open if you know what I mean. I didn't really want to take the whole top of the boat off. Still nead to do some more grinding, remove the center rib and redo. The white stuff is where water had sat under the foam. Everthing looks and feels good. The best thing is the transom is fine.
 
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