1988 Sea Ray 200 BowRider - Stringer configuration?

NatedoggAZ

New Member
Mar 4, 2019
9
Boat Info
1988 Sea Ray Seville
Engines
4.3L2 V6
443S100AR
Hello,

I am looking for the stringer configuration - or anyone who may have pictures of this boat with the decking removed.

I may need to partially replace a stringer... just need to see how they run under the deck.

Thanks!

ND
 
No picture, but, stringers run straight. Pull the fuel cover off.
 
That is actually the stringer that is bad - on the starboard side of the fuel tank cover. The stringer that the cover sits/rest on...

Any tips on cutting up the floor to expose the bad areas?

Thanks!
 
Well, the stringer i need to replace pretty much stops right at where the vent tubes go through... i just need to replace up to the tubes because after the tubes the stringer is good...
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Well, the stringer i need to replace pretty much stops right at where the vent tubes go through... i just need to replace up to the tubes because after the tubes the stringer is good...View attachment 66192 View attachment 66193 View attachment 66194
Pull the floor, pull the tank and get to work. It's going deeper than you think. That stringer goes to the bottom of the hull and forward far below and forward of the fill and vent hoses that you have pictured. Keep digging, it's imperative if you want do it right.
 
NatedoggAZ,

Going through this now on a 19' Sorrento which has a similar configuration as your Seville. All good advice above but I would add that it might not be as bad as it looks. For most of its life our boat was stored in the hanger, covered. The majority of our damage came from the last few years being outside, covered but the cover leaked and the boat wasn't at a sufficient enough angle to adequately drain. I mention so you have a sense of how ours rotted.

These boats had a design issue where water seeps into the seams in the floor (ski locker, fuel tank hatch) and rotted the stringers from the top down. We had a company rip into the floor to find that the only damage was really what was visible. The foam was dry, the rest of the stringers in good shape. The cost was under $3k for the inspection, remove/replace, re-glass and beefed up the top of the stringers so it wouldn't happen again. I had removed everything in the boat prior which likely saved me a few hundred.

Attached is a diagram of how the center section of our stringers/bulkheads were for our boat. I'm not a fiberglass expert so I chose to have somebody else do the work.

There is a set of video's done by Friscoeboater that VLOGS through the process of taking it apart and putting it back together.


Very detailed and really worth the watch even if you are going to have it done by somebody else.

Suggestion: Look at what you want long term. If your planning on keeping it for the long haul then I would go after the "better than new" approach.

Will you be doing the interior, etc? I have put together a spreadsheet to keep track of costs and things that need to be done in our restoration process.
 

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Thanks @jroach !

This is very helpful information!!

I live in AZ and it is really dry here... so I don't think it is as bad as it looks either. Just the part where I took the pictures has the rot. Actually, I think it may originally have been dry rot - but got soggy when we had a few days of rain here recently and water got in.

I really don't want to pull the whole floor up - its a 30 year old boat and I already have some $$$ into it...

Also, the seat risers are molded into the floor which would be an exponential amount of work to remove and replace them. I am just going to tackle the section behind the seat on the starboard side - it is about a 3 foot by 3 foot area.

ND
 
@jroach

Had to cut my message short last night because I had to run out...

I will be re-doing the interior as well. I bought a whole roll of marine carpet and also some new lounge seats.

What I think I am going to do is after I remove the carpet (and fix the area) is put a new top layer of treated plywood down over the whole thing, screw it down, and put a new layer of glass on it. I'm thinking maybe a new 1/2 inch ply layer on top should hold it for a while.

Also, what did you do (or what did your mechanic do) to keep water from entering into the fuel tank hatch and getting the stringers and wood wet underneath? Did they add a layer of glass to the stringers?

-ND
 
A couple of thoughts (IMHO):

- It seems strange the the risers are intergrated. Maybe that was a common practice but wow does that make floor work more difficult.

- I would be reluctant to put a layer of wood over the current floor. If the floor is “spongy” then I would address the stringer issue. I’ll bet the DIY could be less than a few hundred. This assumes your handy....I have no experience in actually doing this.

- Performance Fiberglass fixed the tank area by glassing the tops of the stringers exposed the gelcoat. We then moved the mounting of the tank hatch screws in by an inch with a new mounting brace underneath. This keeps the screws out of the edge of the plywood. If you need pics, let me know...the boat is being fitted for a new cover so it’s not at home for another week.
 
@jroach
Actually - the floor is not spongy anywhere. It just has that area where the stringer needs addressing. Since I was going to be tearing up the carpet, figured I would also give the floor a face lift as well with new glassing while I was at it.

I am pretty handy and can do most stuff - if not, I'll find instructions somewhere and learn a new skill =)

If you have pictures - would definitely like to see them!

ND
 
ND,

Got th eboat back but its raining so I haven't had a chance to get inside and snap a photo of the new tank well deck mount. Here is a pic of the tank well without the new mount but shows the repair.
 

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ND, I've attached a few pics of how the tank is secured. The tank hatch now attaches to the new wood and can be removed/replaced if it rots for some reason in the future.
 

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Hey @jroach

Hope all is well..

I finally got to rip open the deck this weekend...
The area that was of concern was ONLY that one stringer. The decking was actually fine and there was no floor rot at all.

I cut out that portion of the stringer - I am only going to replace that part that I tore out.
...man was it a pain...

I just need to tear out a little more and then put in a new stringer board.
Probably going to go with a 2x6 or whatever will fit in there.

I'm thinking I will mount in the 2x6 just on the other side of where that little fiberglass line is.
I ground it down pretty good as you may be able to see.

I just need to find out whatever angle I need to cut the stringer board at and glass it in...
stringer2.jpg

stringer4.jpg
stringer1.jpg
stringer4.jpg
stringer4.jpg
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great progress! The top of the stringers are not sealed well so place like the fuel hatch and ski locker are prone to this problem. An angle finder can help but I think it's a bit of trial/error. Remember to use a marine grade plywood. It might not seem like a big deal but it will give you longer lasting results. We glassed over all the exposed stingers like the one in your last pic.

Looks good, hope your having fun
 
...I tell ya... It sure is hard finding marine grade plywood on the shelf here in AZ. I have come to find that it is a special order item unfortunately... unless I'm just not calling the right places.
 
Look around for a "real" lumber yard, not a Lowes or HD.
 
@jroach

I cleaned up the area to be replaced and ended up removing the tank...urgh... damn tank had about 22 gallons of fuel left in it... was able to fill up the tanks of 2 cars and 2 motorcycles..

Does anyone have thoughts on replacing the fuel filler or vent hoses?

The end of the ski locker is going to have to be replaced including that portion of the decking...

I also did find the ACX plywood at 84 Lumber last night and picked up 2 sheets for about $60 total.

OH - does anyone have recommendations on the types of resin to use? - polyester vs epoxy resin? or whatever?

I would like the type of resin that I can use for everything if possible - instead of having to get 2 different kinds... a multi-purpose resin for: gluing the boards together, making PB, and using it to layer CSM or 1708.

Tank removed:
floor4.jpg

Floor and stringer cut out
floor2.jpg
 

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