1981 SRV 245 Sundancer running hot

Bill Nelson

Member
Oct 21, 2019
58
New River, AZ
Boat Info
1981 Sea Ray Sundancer
Engines
5.7 L Mercruiser
Hi all,

First outing on my new (1981) Sundancer and everything was beautiful. Trailers nice, easy to put in the water, and dock. After about 5 minutes running 3/4 throttle she starts to chug and smoke a bit. Shut 'er down, and opened the engine bay, and see the port side flex water fitting (my nomenclature is surely wrong, it's rubber - connects between the out drive and the engine water plenum) cracked and burping water. So I definitely need to replace it, but when the motor is running, there is not that much water coming out of the split. I would expect that to spray quite a bit with the impellers working properly. Is this something to worry about? Is there an "easy" way to test if there is sufficient water flow after replacing the fitting?

Any help is much appreciated!

Bill
fitting.jpg
fitting detail.jpg
 
Welcome aboard!

The water is falling vertically at that point into an open tube (the y-pipe). I don't think there's anything abnormal to what you are seeing. That split is below the waterline and that's why you are seeing water bubbling/burping out when the engine isn't running - in other words, your boat could sink with that hole. Once the engine is running, the exhaust is pushing everything out.

Now, in saying that, that doesn't mean you are/are not getting sufficient water to the engine. That could very well just be 'another' issue. You have another post where it looks like you can't shift and the problem there is either a frozen lower shift cable (you mentioned it shifts fine when disconnected at the engine, right?) or buggered gears. If the gears started to lock up, that could also explain the running issue.

The point here is... Figure out what is going on with your drive first. Remove the lower and check things out. Still have shifting problems with lower removed... likely a bad cable. Shifting is now easy... likely a bad lower.

How's the drive fluid look?

Is the drive currently in neutral? Check by spinning the prop in both directions.
 
Hi Daze,

Thanks for the response! Yep, drive is in neutral. spins both ways and the transom cable won't budge for anything. Agreed something is going on in the drive and needs to be fixed first. How tough is removing the lower?
 
Easy. I'm not sure what drive you have, but they're all basically the same. Fasteners on the side between the upper and lower... One fastener underneath the anti-vent plate anode. One at the forward edge. Tilt the drive up so it's easier to clear the driveshaft. Slide it out. Bang on it to get it moving if needed. Then you can also check the condition of the impeller and plate/housing.

Probably looks a whole lot like this one that's been sitting in my garage for 3 years!

Make yourself a quick stand, too. (4) 2x8's - 18" long.

 
I'm not sure what drive I have either! :confused: The data plate is toast. I think it's an Alpha Drive?
 
Easy. I'm not sure what drive you have, but they're all basically the same. Fasteners on the side between the upper and lower... One fastener underneath the anti-vent plate anode. One at the forward edge. Tilt the drive up so it's easier to clear the driveshaft. Slide it out. Bang on it to get it moving if needed. Then you can also check the condition of the impeller and plate/housing.

Probably looks a whole lot like this one that's been sitting in my garage for 3 years!

Make yourself a quick stand, too. (4) 2x8's - 18" long.


I heard "bang on it" so that''s all the encouragement I need! :)

Thanks Daze!
 
I heard "bang on it" so that''s all the encouragement I need! :)

Thanks Daze!
Yup - sometimes they are just stuck. You'd have to do something really crazy to hurt it, though. Twist/rock/bang/kick - just be ready for it to drop. Sometimes I leave two of the nuts on, but loosened. Gets stuck more often in salt water use, though.
 
Looks like from the sterndrive.info website, this in a Pre-Alpha MC-1. Thanks for the help, Dennis and Bill! More to come when(if) I figure out how to drop it!
 
MIne was a pre alpha type MC-1.
They dont have the side mounted trim position switches like the above.
Think this is an Alpha 1??
 
Hi all,

First outing on my new (1981) Sundancer and everything was beautiful. Trailers nice, easy to put in the water, and dock. After about 5 minutes running 3/4 throttle she starts to chug and smoke a bit. Shut 'er down, and opened the engine bay, and see the port side flex water fitting (my nomenclature is surely wrong, it's rubber - connects between the out drive and the engine water plenum) cracked and burping water. So I definitely need to replace it, but when the motor is running, there is not that much water coming out of the split. I would expect that to spray quite a bit with the impellers working properly. Is this something to worry about? Is there an "easy" way to test if there is sufficient water flow after replacing the fitting?

Any help is much appreciated!

BillView attachment 76110 View attachment 76111
Hi Bill, please get those hoses ( exhaust tubes )changed asap all of them before you sink your boat
 
So I managed to snap the heads off of all 4 (!) water pocket cover bolts. As I was looking up in there It looks like the receiver spline shaft bushing (not sure of the name) is all ganked up. I don't see any way to replace this from outside of the upper?
upper mounting 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I got the pump rebuilt. Turning the shaft turns the propeller, but it is pretty tight. Is that just a function of a new impeller?
 

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