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Discussion in 'Classic Sea Rays' started by dmnolan, Aug 24, 2017.
Have to fight the kids for it!!
Thanks for input and sorry for slow response. Was away on vacation and just getting back at it.
All good input! Been chasing all the grounds to make sure they are OK.
It is the pertronics original, not the 2 or 3.
Coil is a flamethrower, 1.5 ohms internally resisted.
I am starting to think my problem is the ballast wire.
Going to go with a 12v relay to provide 12v direct to coil when switch is on. 12 V is not an issue full time without points to cook. and this will isolate the ignition to a dirct 12V and if grounds are good I should be OK.
We shall see, will know by this weekend!!
I’m going to go look at one, the seller says it’s a barn find. We’ll see. He’s asking waaay too much
Yeah 9 seems high to me. I have more than that into this project and dont think I could get 9 for mine!!
But I never expected to get my money back!
Nice job! Doing similar with ours. Did you reinstall floatation?
No. Based on how much water the old foam was holding I elected to go with out.
Not a requirement for boats under 21 feet by USCC standards.
I don’t really even believe there is enough foam in the boat when done to float the boat. IMHO.
I think the only possible negative is more Hull noise? But the hull is so thick? We shall see.
Oh cmon please foam it. I want to buy this boat when you’re tired of it. Just seal up bulkheads well. Foam is good for many reasons including buoyancy and sound deadening.
Did you mean over 20?
Kind of why I was asking. Figured you might have worked that out. I guess a void is still a void as long as the seal doesn't get broken.
Our boat has additional floatation compartments added on both sides of the hull in the engine compartment. As well, there is a fare bit more wood in ours than yours but my displacement calculations of the existing floatation still don't seem to come very close to what it weighs. Maybe it was there for more of a structural thing. Going to put the floatation back in ours and thinking about adding more in some unused space in the front part of engine compartment. Hopefully enough to ensure it floats. Ours it set up with a high rear deck.
No, under 20 ft.
Larger boats than that will never have enough foam to float them.
Of course this is all about floating when swamped. Not floating as in your everyday staying on top of the water, that work is done by the displacement of the hull.
The rule you’re refer to has been amended since it’s inception in 1977 and only applied to outboard motorized boats. It has been revised besides the American Boat and Yacht Council has a set of recommendations.
In 1977, the Coast Guard established flotation requirements for boats less than 20 feet in length, and established a weight table (Table 4 of subpart H in 33 CFR part 183) used to assist the boat manufacturer in determining the amount of flotation to be included in a boat's design and construction.
Table 4 was last updated in 1984, but the size and weight of outboard engines has evolved over the years to the point that Table 4 no longer accurately represents the weights of outboard engines available on the market.
The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) is a non-profit organization that develops voluntary safety standards for the design, construction, maintenance, and repair of recreational boats. Among the voluntary safety standards that ABYC develops and updates on a regular basis is S-30—Outboard Engines and Related Equipment Weights (ABYC S-30). This standard reflects the current state of marine outboard engine weights.”
Use the foam.
Interesting. Will give it a read.
“A sterndrive boat is required to have only “basic flotation,” which means that when fully loaded at least a part of it will remain above water for crew to hang onto until rescue. Sterndrives don’t have adequate space at their transoms for flotation to counteract the weight of their engines. Outboard boats under 20 feet with over-2-horsepower engines, on the other hand, must float level, as defined by a specific set of regulations in the flotation section of U.S. Code Title 46.”
Here’s a great read.
Been awhile since I posted any updates.
Will go through pictures and post some soon.
dig get rebuilt engine started and she sounds great! Got rid of resitor wire and went with continuous 12v to coil. Did the trick!
GOt the canvas done. Needed to build a new frame. Had canvas that was in good shape except for eisenglass which is currently being replaced.
will get the pics uploaded soon!!
So close to splashing the boat!
My current hurdle is the power trim on outdrive.
Alpha type pump(rebuilt)
Goes up all day long. Doesn’t want to go down.
Have bled per procedure with no change.
You beleive my hoses are connected correctly. Black/up on left side of pump as you face it. Grey on right.
Manifold/ cylinders I think are right. (Attaching picture)
Could I have the main lines from pump connected wrong to manifold?? Is there some kind of check valve in pump.
Even if I run down and stand in outdrive it won’t go down.
If I crack the lines it comes down nicely.
May have solved my problem! I think. Need more fluid to top off tank before I try again.
While pondering my trim issues I decided to reorganize the cylinder lines. They were not neat.
When I put them back on I think I connected outer most holes in cylinder to the holes in manifold closet to the boat.
They in fact should be closest hole on cylinder to The transom should be connected to the closest hole in the manifold block to the transom.
Yup. Operator error!! Hook things up correct. And they work!!
On to a final tune of the engine and sea trials
Walk through of cockpit.
Mechanicals are 100%. working on a splash plan.
video walkthrough I hope!