195 changing oil question

[1969Hemi]

got a project boat, and it has the 4.3 merc. its a 1995 195 signature open bow, do you just drain the oil into the boat and let it drain out the back, drain plug of the boat? i only ask because it looks as if it has been done before/ black oil stain were bilge pump is. not much space there. I could use these airforce absorbant rags. and dribble some oil out/ close it... change pad/ repeat. or do they sell a drain hose that hooks to plug area/ then out the back of the hole of the boat?

 

[Lazy Daze]

If you can get to the oil pan easily enough to remove the drain plug, you could install a remote oil drain setup. It will replace the existing drain plug. But, you can just suck it out of the dipstick - it's just as good.

 

[Stee6043]

Many of us suck the oil out through the dip stick. You can buy electric or manual pumps to do this. Far cleaner than the bilge method. Pumps can be had for pretty cheap.

 

[BillK2632]

+1 - I have always sucked the oil out of the dipstick - there are a number of different oil changers available. Don't even try to drain it into the bilge, you will never get it cleaned up completely.

 

[1969Hemi]

thanks, it is already black/ sutty from someone else,, so they make a pump to attach to the dipstick tube... new for me... lol

any links? good brands?

 

[Lazy Daze]

There's lot's and lot's to choose from. Almost too many. Which means there will be many opinions on what one to use, as well. Google something like "oil extractors". There are manually operated ones, 12V powered ones, even pneumatic ones (both "pump up" and air compressor powered). Prices go from about $20 to $600 - maybe more. Search on this forum for these things, too - lot's of threads (and opinions... including mine!) about them.

 

[SloBurn]

If you drain into bilge, the next time bilge pump kicks on, you'll
be dumping oil overboard. DO NOT DO THIS. Even if you try to clean up, you'll miss a bunch. Suck it out of dipstick, easy.

 

[1969Hemi]

thanks, i'll order one. the area is all black, so someone else has done that... idiots...

 

[Leardriver]

I have a $30 "sacrificial" Shop Vac that I only use for slurping oil, brake fluid, and other nasties. I store it inside a Hefty bag when not in use to keep the dribbles to a minimum. It has about 1000 times more power than a hand pump, and makes oil extraction very quick. I wrap duct tape around the spout where it connects to the oil dipstick pipe in order to reduce the size and make them fit to each other.

 

[blaster]

Pour some powder laundry detergent around the bilge and work it into the cracks and crevasses. Let it sit overnight. Then hose it out thoroughly. Should clean up most of the oil mess. Just be sure to recover the waste water if it's not on the hard. From there you can do a more thorough detailing.

And +1 on pumping it out through the dipstick. Don't let anyone tell you that it doesn't all come out that way. The difference is negligable.

 

[1969Hemi]

got the oil out, merky.. milk,, i ran the motor prior to pumping it out to warm it up, , purrs like a kitten, may change oil/ then do one of those copper?/headgasket flushes that are on youtube... anyone flush their motors? any brand work best?

 

[NorCal Boater]

If the old oil is milky looking that's usually and indication of water in the oil. The typical cause is a blown head gasket or it could be worse up to a cracked head or block but depending on the climate where you live it could just be condensation in the bottom of the motor. You did say it was a project boat, do you know how long it was sitting. If it were me I think I'd want to do a compression test ASAP before you get too far down the road with the motor.

 

[1969Hemi]

If the old oil is milky looking that's usually and indication of water in the oil. The typical cause is a blown head gasket or it could be worse up to a cracked head or block but depending on the climate where you live it could just be condensation in the bottom of the motor. You did say it was a project boat, do you know how long it was sitting. If it were me I think I'd want to do a compression test ASAP before you get too far down the road with the motor.

thanks to all who have answered,

So i did a compression test, 120-130 , on all cylinders except port side center, 85, runs like a champ, but looks like I'm pulling the head this fall/winter as one cylinder is lagging/ and blown, causing water to enter,, Also, i think i need a empeller/ that sucks the water into the engine, as i ran it in a large tub, and it was not spitting water out as much as i would like, So, in a nut shell im thinking, cooling empeller(not sure whats it called) failed----- headed motor up.. blew head gasket/ fail,, But the motor sounds great,, more to come

 

[Bt Doctur]

You cannot get the water level high enough using a tub, use the flush muffs.
Pull both heads and have them redone for piece of mind

 

[NorCal Boater]

+1 on the outdrive muffs. You don't say where you are but any boat store will have them as well as Walmart.

I know the other 5 cylinders were all the same but I would like to have seen them a bit higher, like the 140-150 range. But get the heads off and while off take them to a machine shop and have the valves and guides done. Look closely at the cylinder walls for anything out of the norm. Next, go to YouTube and search Mercruiser 4.3. Tons of how-to videos will come up with everything you need to know....assuming you don't already.

Lastly, lets see some pictures of the money pit. I have one of my own that I'm redoing right now (and have been for about 3 years now) as are about 4 or 5 other members. We need pictures so we can commiserate with you.

 

[1969Hemi]

ill try to get some photos in the next week or so,, winding down the farm, duties/ plating etc.. pounding fence post ,, blaaaa blaa..