185 with 3.0 prop advice

[Brandon185]

I see a lot of threads on props for the 4.3 engines baht I can't find info for the 3.0 engine.
I have an 05 185 sport when the 3.0 and I'm looking to get a new prop. Currently there is an aluminum 14.5 x 17 that has seen better days. The hole shot is nice but I don't like topping out at 32mph.
What's everybody else using with this motor?

 

[Lazy Daze]

There's a prop matrix on SR's website - under Owner's Resources, I believe. It will show you what the original prop was for your model/year. But in the end, it really comes down to what you want to do with the boat - I'm sure you've read about that. You essentially have one gear to play with - do you want hole shot or top end? Go with a pitch in the middle for a balance.

What you may or may not have read about is that going to SS won't really help you - the little 4-banger just doesn't have enough torque to spin up the much heavier prop fast enough to take advantage of it.

Another option that will give you the best of both worlds - and you can search on this site or Google for more info as there's plenty out there - is to go with the stock prop and add Smart Tabs or even full-control tabs like Bennetts.

 

[Brandon185]

There's a prop matrix on SR's website - under Owner's Resources, I believe. It will show you what the original prop was for your model/year. But in the end, it really comes down to what you want to do with the boat - I'm sure you've read about that. You essentially have one gear to play with - do you want hole shot or top end? Go with a pitch in the middle for a balance.

What you may or may not have read about is that going to SS won't really help you - the little 4-banger just doesn't have enough torque to spin up the much heavier prop fast enough to take advantage of it.

Another option that will give you the best of both worlds - and you can search on this site or Google for more info as there's plenty out there - is to go with the stock prop and add Smart Tabs or even full-control tabs like Bennetts.

That's interesting.. I was looking at stainless props to gain some performance but I guess I can save some money if it doesn't help. I was actually laying out my trim tabs to install today although I don't think it's going to work with the plastic ones I have because of the curved transom on my boat. Guess I'll have to send them back.

 

[CNYBoater]

have you tried the "prop finder" function on iboats? I used that on my last boat, to find an optimum size for what I was using the boat for, it came with a prop pitched poorly for my needs. Current boat is satisfactory with the stock part number and traded the aluminum I got from iboats later (CL) for a spare SS mercury prop for the current boat.

Should mention that I had called iboats customer service and gave them current prop size, engine specifics, rpm at WoT, etc to hammer it out, then looked to see what was available in the recommended size. They ended up being cheapest for the models I narrowed it down to.

 

[Lazy Daze]

It's not too hard to make shims for the trim tabs. You can make a profile template from a piece of cardboard held flat to the underside of the hull and trace the curvature of the transom to it. Transfer that to a piece of HDPE and shape it. Trim tabs will make a HUGE difference - more so than a prop - and will not affect your top end. They really are the best of everything - hole shot, stays on plane a slower speed, calms the bow down/less bouncy, stabilizes the boat, retains top end.

 

[Brandon185]

have you tried the "prop finder" function on iboats? I used that on my last boat, to find an optimum size for what I was using the boat for, it came with a prop pitched poorly for my needs. Current boat is satisfactory with the stock part number and traded the aluminum I got from iboats later (CL) for a spare SS mercury prop for the current boat.

Should mention that I had called iboats customer service and gave them current prop size, engine specifics, rpm at WoT, etc to hammer it out, then looked to see what was available in the recommended size. They ended up being cheapest for the models I narrowed it down to.

I haven't tried that. What I was most wondering is what style works best for this combo. I know the boat comes stock with a black max 14.5x19 but I've about different stainless models giving good performance but I only hear discussions regarding the 4.3 motor. I'm just looking to maximize performance given the limitations of the 3.0.

 

[Brandon185]

It's not too hard to make shims for the trim tabs. You can make a profile template from a piece of cardboard held flat to the underside of the hull and trace the curvature of the transom to it. Transfer that to a piece of HDPE and shape it. Trim tabs will make a HUGE difference - more so than a prop - and will not affect your top end. They really are the best of everything - hole shot, stays on plane a slower speed, calms the bow down/less bouncy, stabilizes the boat, retains top end.

I'm definitely putting tabs on. I have the smart tabs as but turns out they're not optimal for the curved transom because of the way the adjusters work on these. Apparently you can use them but they aren't as easily adjustable. I guess to adjust them instead of just moving the shock between the different holes you have to change the shock to a different weight. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if they'll let me upgrade to the stainless ones which work for curved transom.

 

[CNYBoater]

I've read reviews of the smart tabs stating their customer service on getting the right tabs on the boat is very good. I kind of liked the bennett self leveling 10x10s better than the smart tab SX though.

On the old boat, I liked the aluminum prop for the replaceable hub. hit something hard and the aluminum has more flex and hub gives and you pop in the spare hub, I have the solid hub stainless stock prop and a spare of the same model. Fixing a stainless prop is a heck of a lot more expensive than a hub kit. In fact, I called a few shops to have mine checked out and tuned since both came to me used and the cost was the same as a new stainless 14x19.

 

[Brandon185]

So what I decided to do was just buy two aluminum props. I ordered the stock 14.5x19 and a 15x17 black max. I'll swap them out depending on what I expect of the trip. Hopefully that'll cover both cruising/tubing and pulling wakeboard/skiers with more assumes on board.

 

[Brandon185]

Also for people reading this I called smart tabs and they're sending a different end for the gas shocks that'll allow their fitting of curved transoms and allow at least the use of three out of five adjustment positions. I'm looking forward to trying them out.

 

[CNYBoater]

Good customer service there.

 

[Searayguy185]

So what I decided to do was just buy two aluminum props. I ordered the stock 14.5x19 and a 15x17 black max. I'll swap them out depending on what I expect of the trip. Hopefully that'll cover both cruising/tubing and pulling wakeboard/skiers with more assumes on board.

So which prop did you like better?

 

[Brandon185]

So which prop did you like better?

I'm currently running the 15x17. This motor just isn't liking the 19 pitch prop. It should be able to run it fine but I just came get the rpm up high enough with it. Still looking into causes but I get close to 35mph on gps with the 17 and it pulls tubes and wake boards really well so I've been ok with that.

 

[Scott06]

You may want to try a four bladed prop. I assume with the tower you use it for water sports? With the 3.0 I had in my 170 I had a 16" 4 blade Michigan vortex for skiing, and a18" vortex for tubing and general use, hole shot, stern lift and planning speed were all improved, with a slight loss of top speed. Basically performance where I used the boat (rpm wise) was better.

You are right you should be able to spin the 19", would be worth verifying engine tune up and check that you didn't loose an exhaust shutter in the down pipe

 

[Brandon185]

It's very possible I have an exhaust shutter stuck in there. it was missing when I got the boat and I got the pieces out I could find but if there's one stuck in there it would have to be in the y pipe or whatever you call that piece in the 4 cylinder. I'll check it out before next season. I even looked with a snake camera but it very difficult to see properly.

You may want to try a
four bladed prop. I assume with the tower you use it for water sports? With the 3.0 I had in my 170 I had a 16" 4 blade Michigan vortex for skiing, and a18" vortex for tubing and general use, hole shot, stern lift and planning speed were all improved, with a slight loss of top speed. Basically performance where I used the boat (rpm wise) was better.

You are right you should be able to spin the 19", would be worth verifying engine tune up and check that you didn't loose an exhaust shutter in the down pipe[/QUOT

 

[beeker]

Let us know how how the fitting for curved transom works out on the smart tab install

 

[Brandon185]

Let us know how how the fitting for curved transom works out on the smart tab install

I don't have pictures right now and the boat is at the storage place but the difference is the bracket is a one sided thing. Basically it doesn't limit the range of motion like the two sided bracket does. Other than that it mounts the same.

 

[midway]

Let us know how how the fitting for curved transom works out on the smart tab install

I have the original stainless steel version installed in 2005, they are well worth the money. Follow the link to see getting ready for install and installed photos. https://www.facebook.com/nolan.lain/media_set?set=a.1016382207919&type=3 Your install should be similar, as you can see I did a rough assy and taped to the boat to get angles correct, my install was on the Smart Tab site as an example. If the link does not work I will try something else.