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sure!

And....??? :)

Contact Southco directly - maybe they can help.

Salvage yards are your only source for an original - not that it really matters, though. Just keep googling and calling. Marine Glass Specialties can fab a new one - although it takes effort on your part and it won't be cheap.

The holes you see are for removal/installation of those caps. Yes, you could add clamp-on anodes. Especially if you're in salt (you didn't mention, though).

I wouldn't worry about the one near the rubrail - that will get splashed but will dry pretty much right away, as well. Besides, to fix that, you have to remove the rubrail. You always have to grind out more than you initially think you have to. I wouldn't be "overly" worried about the one...

I would say AT LEAST every 3 years... realistically, you could go longer... especially since you're in fresh water. There is absolutely no reason to do it every season. I assume you had the bellows done? If you used Merc bellows - those are most likely good for at least 10 years (but visually...

Gotcha. Sea Ray does have some info going back much, much older. I just double checked. I didn't look closely at the brochures, though.

What kind of info are you looking for? You can find old brochures on Sea Ray's website - and sometimes you can look to other, close by, model years as well. But there really won't be anything in any printed Sea Ray manuals that are going to help you with your project. Repairing rotten wood...

You popped all the casting plugs and had no damage? Play the lottery tonight.

Good - that is helpful. PSI is funky. Check for good spark at each plug. Drive "trim" use?

I don't think you had ever responded in your other thread about the block... how was it determined that the block is OK? Don't want to go into too much detail if you're not doing this yourself, but... the circ pump is on the front of the engine and (assuming you have a Bravo drive), the raw...

If you have water, that's pretty much your "check" :) There's no way to pressure test it, if that's what you were after.

Tape some paper towels in key areas to determine if it's the valve or hose. Gravity works.

I've driven all of those and I never felt uncomfortable behind the wheel. They have long bows and your seating position is certainly not elevated like you're used to. But the seating position is normal for the style boat they are. The reality is that once you're up and cruising you're really...

The pleats (lines) are pretty much a non-issue - it doesn't really affect "cleanability" like you would think. Black will be hotter in the sun - but most colors get at least quite warm. And, yes, Blue's opinion DOES matter! :) Edit: Just to be clear... although Blue's opinion matters, it's...

A local hydraulic hose shop can make it for you. Most decent sized cities have at least one of those nearby.

What do you mean by "functionally"? As far as color - sure, I have an opinion. But my opinion doesn't matter! 100% and totally up to you... color/pattern decision is all you! :)

On a little boat, though, it is, by far, standard practice to use a 12V DC battery. Not that (2) 6V "couldn't" be used, of course.

You said "it looks like" the bilge pump stayed on. Can you explain how you verified that? I ask because it it sounds like you might be guessing? Depending on the batteries age and their level of charge when you put the boat away a few months ago, they may simply have withered away and died...