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Really taking your time and going slow like me. Maybe a 1/2 day. I had my 350ci out in less then 3 hrs. Very little to take off and disconnect. Drive, motor mounts, 10 P elec connector, ground cable/battery cables, water heater hoses, raw water hose. Job goes amazingly fast.

No responses ?? Maybe the new gauges and senders are incompatible? Wrong ohms.

Two new fuel tanks, senders, and gauges. With ignition on. the gauges move under the empty mark. The tanks sat empty for a year before filling, and Sea trial. Could the sending units get damage or stick by not being submersed in fuel for a long period of time?? Purple wire has 14v at gauges...

16x16 quicksilver alum prop if you have the Merc drive.

The 8.1 does not have a single piece off the 454ci. New design of the block, complete engine makeover. Nothings interchangable.

Out in my waters. Most lesser boats head back in during the afternooon whitecap and swells. I have my own little joke for these guys. Whitecap? What whitecap. :huh:LOL The 16x16 is a great prop for these boats. Per a local prop shop. (I never used it) Performance numbers may be.... WOT...

Hey Getaway, You sure have lots of fishing goodies on your boat.:thumbsup:

The 4 blades are suppose to give stern lift and mid range performance. A cupped 3 blade is also suppose to help mid range performance.

Thats kind of funny, I think. :wow: :smt009 I always wondered if a mistake like that would break the windshield. I'm glad the boat took it well.

This is a easy one :smt043 My 8.1 Merc has the 4 relays by the PCM. Anyone know where the Black wire with the blue stripe gets it ground source from on the starter relay??? #86 ground pin on the starter relay. 3rd relay from the front of engine.

Heard good things about SEI Alpha drives also.

Alpha 1 to Bravo drive. New Bravo transom assembly. Steering ram. Drill two more holes in transom for the Bravo assembly. cutout is the same. Maybe a new trim pump for the heavy drive? I switched mine out.

No luck, New ignition switch. 13.8 volts Power at ignition switch, same through neutral safety switch.(red/yellow wire) Starter Relay not energizing even after switching them around. The other 3 relays click Have 13.8v Red/yellow wire at the 10P and the starter relay with the key in start...

Thanks a bunch. I had looked at the post before. Very good info. Was kind of bummed when I was not able to view pics. Guess I have to join there site to view pics. I dont have a slave solenoid. (like Volvo) Using a test light for checking my battery is almost useless. Fuel relay clicks, do not...

Find your fuel tank. Your bug issue hose. The vent hose is 5/8" ID. The 2nd to biggest hose on the tank. Your fuel feed hose to engine is 3/8" Fuel tank filler is 1 1/2" All connected with hose clamps. Disconnect vent hose at fuel tank. Blow out with compressed air. Replace the stainless vent...

There may be a tag on the tank telling you the Gals.

No crank/no start condition. I bypassed the neutral safety switch. Everything else electrical on the boat works. Jumped the red/purple#6 and red/yellow#7 on the engine harness. Thats the main power and the neutral safety/ignition wire that goes to the starter. I have two battery ground cables...

Ignition switch has juice, power down to 10pin engine harness. The 4 fuses on engine are good. swapped the 4 relays around. Fuel pump has power, and engine will start when jumping off the starter/solenoid. The yellow/red wire from the engines 10P to the starter solenoid is not getting power...

Looks like a very good spot. You basically dont want anything in front of the ducer causing turbulance. You need a clean flow of water over the transducer. Same thing goes for the prop. Check out the airmar flush mount transducers.

I had always thought yellow is the warning given to mash on the throttle before the light turns red.:smt021 Good thing there is no yellow lights marking the no wake zones.:smt043