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Yes, the area can be wet while you buff

Put some water in a spray bottle and spritz the area you're buffing. The pores are open after wetsanding, so the OR is soaking in. Also, run at 2400-2600 with the buffer.

I've had a few PMs, so figured it was time for TTT. Hope everyone had a great summer!

Great to hear J! I remember when I posted this up a few years ago and a choice few had a hard time believing that we do over 250+ a year with these. Also, check out their newest 3500 with digital readout. I bought two last year to go along with the 3ks and they've worked perfect. A bit heavier...

Just wanted to put some quick info up. Spider Wax spray wax is a polymer wax that has a non toxic, eco-friendly spider repellent additive. It won't kill spiders, but repel them. Spider Wax also has the same spider repellent additive in their Vinyl Conditioner, so you get protection both for...

Sorry to hear about your Dad as well. Part of buffing a boat is the odd angles in which you work. I've buffed for years and the best way I've found is take the cord and go once around your forearm then step through the cord once with your right leg. If you're buffing bent over then still...

Hey Tom, It's winter, so sorry for the late reply. I would only use my OR with the buffer for the results you're looking for. By hand just won't give that same shiny, clear reflection.

This is my International distributor. http://www.topnotchperformancemarine.com/~topnotch/Leverage-Products-c2.html You might want to send BOE an email first just to make sure.

Congrats on the SR! Towels- I use Terry Cloth only. The hold up very well and you can rewash as needed. Polish- I own/produce Leverage Polish. Get it on the fiberglass/metals while the boat is new and keeping it clean will be allot easier. You can also use it on your glass and your isen...

I assumed on something that I need to correct. You always need to try buffing first before wetsanding..... Thanks Neha & Barry!!

New buffer link... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=66615

Yep. I run into it occasionally. Sometimes the surface is so oxidized that buffing just isn't enough. Thanks for adding the info Chris! Yes, dip the paper in soapy water...:grin:

The wetsanding thread is up. :grin: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22869

I know we have a lot of experts on the board, so I'm sure everyone can tell us what's worked for them. We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each may require different grits to obtain the optimum shine. I will give some examples of what I use to do the job...

OK, 1 more post then I think I'm caught up. :grin: I want everyone to remember that my Polish isn't a total miracle that will solve all of your problems if you have any. If your boat is stored outside and is more than one year old then buffing first might be likely. I've also seen brand new...

Hey Dave, Sounds like everyone has you ponited in the right direction. If the Hull still shines then just put a coat of polish on her. All the SR's I maintain that are in a covered slip get 1 light coat of Polish per year.

Good conversation Dennis! Let me know if you need anything else.

If it still has a shine then I recommend buffing with the OR then following up with the Polish. Some spots may or may not need more attention like wetsanding, but it all depends on the condition. Always buff first then wetsanding as a last option. The HB buffer is the tool to use unless you...

Sorry for the delayed response guys. It's summertime, so I've been covered and on the road. Sorry about your results, but please check post #57 in this thread. Your fiberglass should have a lasting mirror reflection with no dull spots.

It sounds like your oxidation is worse than anticipated. Are you using the rotary buffer with a wool pad? I run into this problem occasionally and it's either that the oxidation is heavier than expected or there's been some type of sealant like PG used on the fiberglass. If it's oxidation then...