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Some other maintenance issues took precedent over this. Been dealing with an engine hiss, leaking heat exchanger, and high idle rpm/throttle issues. Once these are taken care of though I'm likely going to do injectadeck on the bow but fiberglass replacement in the cockpit. I realized someone...

check distributor cap and rotor. i've had an engine start and run all day and then just decide the corrosion was too much to keep going lol. changed em out and starts like a champ every time

shameless last ditch bump on this one...

i agree here. i constantly have about 2cm of water in my bilge because of my hatch covers. i've given up trying to keep it dry

Well its not a lost muffler. There's definitely a muffler in there. I even changed it just to be sure. This particular engine is my problem engine. The shifter is much harder to push/pull than the port side and the heat exchanger on this side likely has a small raw water leak cause I can't keep...

theres a video?

hmm yeah its worth a look. i remember when i lost a muffler before though it would hiss constantly at me and not just when givin er gas

My starboard engine is making this weird short hiss/air release sound whenever I put it in gear or give it some throttle. It doesn't stay hissing... just a quick PSHHHHHH. What could be causing that?

Well... the internet has officially sent me on a wild rampage of learning how to restore an entire boat and how to work with fiberglass. I now know three things for sure: 1. I probably have a lot more rot than I'd like to believe 2. Shit 3. I have a lot of work ahead of me this winter

I've seen this. Maybe I'll give it a go

So first of all... I already own the boat so telling me to run is not going to help :/ I noticed the other day when tying off the boat that on the bow above the cabin near the hatch on the starboard side there is a soft spot about the size of my foot. Thinking back to when I bought the boat I'm...

get yourself a fuel pressure tester to rule out leaks and to see if your getting fuel. it hooks into the schrader valve right near the IAC valve. crank the engine and it should read about 40-50 psi. im gonna lean more toward Wanderer's response though. It's likely the distributor cap and/or...

looks like sink drain or water tank overflow. same as on mine. fuel vents look more.... venty

Well I got my answer. Apparently my uncle drained the tank at the end of the season last year while doing a compression test and didn't tell me. I was able to get it full after all... just took a lot of filling. Now let's hope it stays full haha

Hmm could be that the seller just doesn't know any better too. Mercury typically use Ford parts for their other engines but the mercruiser ones specifically use chevy. They prob just assumed mercruiser was a part of the mercury family and therefore would use the same parts

Awesome. I don't know if you noticed but when I closely examined the inner workings of the IAC from Amazon it did have some minor differences from the OEM one I was replacing. They also are definitely deleting reviews (not sure how) because when you click the 1 star or 3 star reviews it says...

OP could you send a link to the OEM part? Did switching to the OEM part fix it? I am having the exact same problem with the exact same part on almost an identical engine.. mine is just a 2006

Turned out to be a corroded distributor cap and fried rotor. Switched them out and she fired right up. Thanks for the suggestions everyone

wish i had someone like you with me when i bought this boat. almost all of the electronics didn't work on it and when I asked the owner about it he said "oh that's weird, they were working fine". He seriously did not know that the boat needed to be plugged in to shore power for the AC converter...

Man reading this felt like a page out of my first trip out. Nothing but issues. Still have yet to get a full season out of mine without something going bad. Too bad there's no lemon laws for boats lol