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Hmmm...can't get a tow truck into my yard behind the boat. I looked at buying a gantry crane, but never thought about a rental. Anyway if the boat ends up in my side yard for the winter, I may give this more thought. Thank you.

In the past I was considering changing the engine myself, but when on blocks the boat is pretty high. And the beam is close to nine feet. I would need a big movable hoist arrangement of some kind. It needs to be movable because I don't have a trailer. I guess I could try and buy a used trailer...

C'mon guys, pulling the heads might be the next step from a "technical" viewpoint, but respectfully you can't possibly appreciate the practical, financial and circumstantial aspects of my situation. IOW, I think I'm the person who knows what's best for me. So, for now I'm selling the boat as-is...

Actually, I believe it's the exhaust valve that's tuliped. I think my prior mention of intake valve was relative to the "remove the pushrod" test, as I thought it might be good to stop fuel from entering the cylinder during that test. Anyway, there is no backfire through the carb that I hear...

Before this problem the boat was for sale, haven't been using it much, I'm looking to downsize. I really don't want the boat, so I'm not sure if I want to put in a new engine..if I'm halfway convinced it's just a valve problem I'll probably go for a valve job. In the meantime, I've got at-least...

Update: Did some more troubleshooting yesterday. I wanted to check oil pressure and also see if removing the pushrods on the zero cylinder changed anything. The good news is that oil pressure was good, up to 40 lbs while cranking. The bad news is that removing the pushrods didn't seem to change...

All I'm saying is that pulling the heads is not likely to reveal a fault that you can look at and say, "yes, that's what's making a horrible, clanking, banging noise". It's not impossible, but I think it's a long shot given what we already see with the bore camera, etc. And if pulling the...

Given the bore camera, rocker arm inspections, and other tests have not revealed the reason for the banging, I think the overwhelming outcome possibility of removing the heads is: 1. It will not show anything about the banging. 2. It will show a major fault causing the banging. 3. It...

To me, it seems highly unlikely that it's worth the expense of removing the heads considering repair shop costs, hauling, etc. given the age of the engine. I still think removing the pushrods might provide valuable insight and would like to hear more pro's and con's. Thanks for your input. Frank

Espos4, True, losing oil pressure is not a good thing, but I'm only thinking about running it for maybe 10 seconds to see if that horrible clanking disappears. Given that the engine is likely bad anyway, I'm not risking much. Of course, if removing the pushrods is not likely to produce...

Wow, more great comments. Thanks everyone. At this point I'm sure that the valves are shot and, although likely, it's not certain that the engine is shot. Because the camera seems to show that the cylinders and piston are okay, and the failure happened after several minutes of low speed...

Thanks, everyone for the help. I'll respond to the comments and suggestions below: 1.It's a 1995 Merc 454 Gen 5 Bravo II, with less than 900 hours. I doubt a valve job was ever done, but could be. 2. True, the valve seats may not be a separable part, but the valve does seem to be countersunk...

After a 20 minute trip, with the engine running great, and then slow trolling around my destination for a couple of minutes my engine suddenly died. Upon restart it made a horrible fast clanking/banging noise and I shut it down immediately. Got towed back to home slip. Upon inspection, # 5...

Thanks...

Thanks.....I'm still a little concerned that the older model B2's (mine is 1995) might be naturally a little harder to shift, but other replys also have implied otherwise.

Bt Doctor, I think I am aware of that adjustment. I'm not sure what model shifter I have, but I think I have the Quicksilver manual stored on the boat somewhere. Thank you for the offer, much appreciated. If I can't find my manual, I may get back to you. BTW, nice to know that it's possible...

Thank you.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Thanks, everyone for the comments/suggestions. The shift control and all it's cables were replaced by the prior owner with a new Quicksilver unit although I don't know how long ago it was done. I have always had the hard shifting problem since I bought the boat about 5 years ago. Maybe it...

I removed the lower shift cable and re-lubricated it a year or so ago and I still have the problem. Maybe I should have asked other Bravo 2 owners with a single handle control if they have any overshoot problems with their setup. If other B2 owners don't have that problem then maybe I do have...