UPDATE:
If anyone has a similar problem, I figured out the solution last weekend. The switch between the battery and the fridge had some corrosion on the terminals, resulting in a poor connection. Works great now!
I guess it's not too wet. Between my last boat which the sunpad drained into the engine compartment and draining the block while winterizing, I was just picturing it being wet. Now that I'm thinking about it, water wouldn't be an issue in this boat.
Could I power it with a portable Honda...
I would like to install a sub and amp in my 240DA. I have a 5ch amp that will fit where the OEM Clarion amp sits, but I'm not seeing any storage space I'm readily willing to trade for a speaker, minus the engine compartment. I'm thinking the engine compartment is too sealed and possibly too...
Good advice; that said, mine works fine when hooked up to a battery, just not on ac. I'm thinking the transformer is shot. I'm still not sure what that loose blue wire is for, though.
Yep, when that black 120VAC plug is plugged in and 120VAC is present the fridge doesn't work. The little green light on the transformer is on; dunno if that means the transformer is bad or not.
I was wondering if that blue wire I labeled "????" should be connected to something.
My fridge won't run when plugged into 110v. Here's a pic of the wires coming into my ac/dc marine fridge. Just to help decipher:
batt pos in = pos wire coming from battery
batt in = negative wire coming from battery
110v conv in = wire coming from 110v-12v transformer
to comp relay = black...
The batteries are new group 24 AGMs installed at the beginning of this season. What's strange is the fridge will cut off after on battery for an hour or two, but the radio continues to play and the engine will crank without any problem. ?????????????
My fridge has doesn't work at all on 120v and cuts off when on 12v after an hour or so. It will run when the engine is running or after it is plugged into shore power for a couple hours. My marina has advised me to junk it and put in a new one rather than have them try to fix it. Any ideas...
No, not sure exactly...I'm bringing a meter next time to find out actual voltage. I know that when the fridge cuts out, the battery still has enough juice to start the engine. If I run the engine at 1500rpm+ or plug into shore power for a while, the fridge will come back on. Dunno.
I'm working out some electrical gremlins on our new to us 2000 240DA. I've figured out that in order for either of the batteries to charge with the engine running or on shore power is to have the switch on BOTH. For example, if battery 1 is low, it won't charge if the switch is on 1; must be on...
Lake Monroe, Bloomington Indiana, isn't too far (hour or so?) from Brookville. Still nothing like the great lakes. A 45 footer would be one of the larger boats on the lake, but you'd have some company. Fourwinds Marina has the facilities for something that size.
I'm hoping someone with a hatch A/C can answer a few questions. I'm looking at a couple Ebay specials and noticed that most are missing the bag thingy that goes over the hatch. Is this necessary?
Also, some have a "power cord" included. I would have assumed that a power cord is usually...
We just bought a 2000 240DA; I tested the fridge (Dino Cool DC-65) before purchase, of course, no problems. Since handing over the money, it's acting strange. (could be the operator:grin:) Anyway, the problem shows up whether it's plugged into shore power or running on batteries. When I turn...