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Whoa...that is a nice one. Mine is cheaper than a Walmart hair dryer and I don't think would get hot enough to do the job. Good news is the connectors I got in work great and a dab of liquid tape at their ends will make them water proof not just weather proof. No crimp, no heat, no solder, so...

I have no recommendation for a heat gun. I suggest you start a thread in the repair/maintenance section with that question. Someone will probably answer.

No pro here but.the heat from the electric guns that are somewhat like a hair dryer only put out the really hot temp just past the nozzle so if there is any room at all at the wires to be connected I would think okay...but...this is why I chose the connectors in this post. I can barely get my...

You may want to start a new thread with that question. jb Only way I've seen it done is with an open propane flame..not good. I have an electric heat gun but like you I don't know if it will go the job on shrink wrap. If no answer comes you can google it and products that appear may give...

I am planning on using this type of connector (blue ones for 14 ga.) and some liquid tape at each end for a sump pump connection. Any opinions on this type of wire connector?

Is the DC distribution panel on a sport cruiser at the helm under the switches and circuit breakers, accessed through the shower compartment?

10/4 and thank you.

My new shower sump pump's manual says to use one of two positive wires to connect it to power. One is for auto operation the other for non auto. It does not say what to do with the extra wire that is stripped back about 1/4". Should this wire be sealed from water or just cut off?

Is it possible to operate total range trim with just the trailer switch? Will #4 send the drive all the way down? Say if pulling out to trailer..just hit the up on the trailer switch to full up position or must the #2 be used to bring it partially up then use #4 for full up? (My first trailer...

With that in mind. Does the #2 rocker stop working at some point of lifting the drive then the trailer button has to be used to get the drive up higher?

Please let me know if I have this right concerning switches and throttle. (no manual have I) 1. Top angled button is pressed to put into gear. 2. Rocker switch under no. 1 activates trim and tilt. 3. Push button to give throttle without being in gear is at center bottom of throttle handle 4...

10/4 and believe it or not I thought the same thing as you described that once the floor/shower tray had filled up over the outlet drain because sump pump box was full and dead, that yes..the seal between either where the shower meets the lip of the head to the cabin or the fitting that begins...

When I was testing the sump (found it fried) the head shower pan filled up and like you said..water somehow got out of the head onto the cabin carpet. I guess that could be a hairline crack in the head floor I can't see..yet. Portholes seem water tight..no sign of any leaks, but then I guess...

What material would you suggest for a fill of the holes? Would silicone and a platform cover do it? or Marine Tex the holes then anti skid cover?

Thanks everyone..great ideas. Now onto the next problem..on and on to try to refurb this boat.

This engine is fuel injected. Weird that only port side exhaust had the soot..not the starboard. Warmed up..soot gone...then engine ran hot.

Cranking the V8 GM sea water cooled engine today I noticed the water from the port side coming out of exhaust to be sooty. Starboard side clear. Once engine warmed the port side water was clear also. Can you tell me what this may indicate for the exhaust or engine?

That's what I would have thought..flow to the back of boat, but others say no..cabin water must be removed by bailing or a wet vac. Other posts have told me there is no path the the back for water for the purpose of not letting fumes to come forward on that same path from the engine. I have...

Thank you all for the advice and explanations as a get to know this boat and try...try...to get it in order.