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After 23 years and 1100 hours, yes, you do need to clean your after coolers and heat exchangers. You Sundancer guys with the V drives have the exact opposite situation that those of us with the sedan bridges and straight drives have. Your problem is the starboard side, our nemesis is the port side.

This isn't a holiday. And it's not beach season. It's 45 minutes from BWI to the Narrows and 90 minutes from Philly airport. Plus, Philly airport is horrible. No way I would fly thru there to get to Kent Island.

I have the 8BTDA gen too. My raw water pump is on the end of the generator on the port side. I do need to remove the belt guard, but not the batteries or battery trays. Those are much further to port (behind the engine). I am able to reach back there and get the gen impeller out without having...

Baltimore. BWI is the best bet. It’s only about 30 minutes from the airport, not counting traffic. Traffic should be ok that time of year though.

Could be. But that's way down the list of things to look at. I like Bill's suggestion or spinning the turbo by hand. I know I'm not pulling injectors myself. I'll pull out the check book at that point!

Late to the party: normally by now I'd be unwrapped and canvas up, systems commissioned. But she's out of the water this winter getting some work done. Good thing, too, as our slip is "inside" the Key Bridge. Had we been "home" we'd be blocked in. As it is, we are blocked out. But we can...

Sounds like it could be fun. I love fall boating and SH Narrows is nice marina, even when the pool is closed! Can you put me on the "interested" list? @TotallyGross might also be interested

Black smoke is unburned fuel in your exhaust - usually it means not enough air is getting into cause combustion. The likely culprit is restricted airflow. I would start with the filters, of course. Make sure they are clean. Make sure they are installed properly. Was any other part of the air...

I always scrape with a vinyl caulk scraper. They are cheap at the hardware store. As for caulk, I forget the number but I use the 3M and LifeSeal clear silicone that promises not to crack or fade. I don't use the adhesive caulks for the rails and such topside.

Thanks. And I understand about the timing. At this time of year I would expect to be in a queue. I’m more interested in getting a good job done at a reasonable price. I’ve had one quote already and found that it would have been cheaper to simply replace the helm seats altogether! Needless to...

Who has a good upholstery shop that they would recommend in the Baltimore area? The captains chairs on our 400 DB could use to be recovered and the cushion and bolsters in the upper bridge area (U seating) need it as well. We also would appreciate someone who is clever as we have a couple...

Looks nice! How much did that run? I have some upholstery quoted recently from my canvas guy, who is very good. But the price was absolute sticker shock. And this is coming from a guy that put a hydraulic platform on his boat... lol. It was actually less expensive to consider brand new helm...

That sounds like a really good deal. But it. Then make it fit. At worst, you'll have to buy a larger boat or an extended platform to fit the dink. But that's boating!

Wow. Nice job diagnosing. This is not a surprise, I assume. Salt air corrodes everything. Why should the internal contacts and wipers of a DIP switch be immune? Nice to know that toggling of the switches to fix your problem. Thanks for sharing!

Guess the can't be chastised as China-made crap anymore? I love mine!

Instead, I put that money towards a bigger boat.

Where are you in MD?

Yup. And it's not even about cracking the fiberglass. The expanding ice can cut through or crack the caulk on those joints.

For some of us, that would require investing in a barn and a semi, so that's not feasible.

I forget, what marina are you in up there? That’s a great price regardless of the size of the slip!