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I don’t think the original blue/gold squiggle graphics are available anywhere so what has everyone replaced them with if you have? Other than a basic boot stripe, I don’t know what to do. My original graphics are disappearing.

I had a hard starting 7.4 mpi. Someone had put the wrong spark plugs in it before me. Replaced with the correct ones on the engine plate and it started easy. The length was different.

Solid alarm just started occasionally when idling or no wake speed. Not the carbon monoxide alarms and the bilge pump has a different buzz. Outdrive fluid res beeps intermittently when low I believe and it has lube. Temp and oil pressure are good but I seem to recall each may have a second...

Anyone come up with additional subwoofer locations besides below the helm speaker? I don’t want to lose my under seat cabinet door either.

On my 99 270 it’s in the transom locker. If it shows the word “on” on the breaker, does it mean it’s on or I should flip it that direction to turn it on?

No, only the regulator on the cool fuel system. I copied my post from sharing it on a car forum too = passenger side. I have not tested the compression. I’m now focused on what could impact all 4 banks even if it is confirmed one cylinder or injector could do it.

UPDATE I’m not sure it’s JUST an injector. It runs rough and weak. The entire starboard side plugs are fouled. I’m sure they were wet. The ceramics are black. The 4 on the other side are white. Each cylinder has its own injector in this MPI setup. Can one bad injector foul every single...

I don’t have the VST system

1999 7.4mpi 0L854*** 270 Sundancer single engine B3 Just before I was about to pull into the marina on plane my boat started sputtering and missing like it had water in the gas. I dropped it down to about 1k. It idled in running but a little rough. It smelled rich. It wasn’t until I got to...

Run it on the muffs for a good while. If no water in bilge, it probably means a transom leak.

Do you prefer putting the shift cable bellows on the transom assembly first and then feeding the cable through or do you prefer feeding the cable through the bellows not yet installed and then feeding it all through the transom, gluing and clamping?

SOLVED - main battery cable loosened at the starter solenoid. Had backed off about 1/8" or so. Surprised I did not have problems last year but also happy I caught it before it became a huge explosion or left us being towed in.

Still nothing - when the switch is turned to run, voltage drops to something like 0.18v. Turn it back off and it takes about 10 seconds to watch the voltage rise back up to 12+v at the switch breaker and switch B.

Exactly where was the water?

It was plugged in. Gonna leave it charging a while and hope for the best. Maybe the batteries were drained more than I realize.

My boat would not turn over when I went to start it the first time this year. I have power to the B terminal at the switch. I get power in the accessory tab. When I test the ignition wire when the switch is in the run position the voltage tanks on both the ignition and the battery side like...

For a '99 270 Sundancer with a single engine. I think my ignition switch/key has some internal corrosion. I think it has 4 terminals on the back and is the longer threaded plastic kind, but I have no idea if this is a replacement. The keys are not Sea Ray keys. I think it has 3 positions but...

I'm in Sassy on the way to Club Capri.

I have a number of areas needing new caulk or sealant. These are not critical areas, but I want something that will last, not turn colors, and is relatively easy to work. These are not areas requiring 4200. The locations are things like where the cockpit seating base meets the cockpit wall...

Well if you see a small orange T flag on the back of a boat, it's probably me.