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I'm not reading through all of the posts, but if no one mentioned it... I'm pretty sure that song is written, in part about Kid Rock's youth, spending a large amount of his summers on Torch Lake, just north of Traverse City, MI. If anyone is within reasonable driving distance and has not...

Obviously I was giving options; perhaps he wanted multiple outlets some switched, some not. Thanks for covering on the ignition protected; I had assumed he'd mount the relay outside of the bilge... but really, I don't know where one would mount it; so yes, it is worth mentioning, if mounting a...

This is what I'd do... Depending on how you want these outlets powered..... Switched with ignition on: Find yourself a 40A relay; these are easily available at the automotive electronics section of Best Buy. What you'll be doing is installing another circuit. Wire the supply side of the...

I'm about 143% sure you mean GCWR... a GVWR near 12,000lbs we're talking about F-350 / 3500HD DRW ratings

From Websters: Engine: 1obsolete a: ingenuity b: evil contrivance : wile2 a: something used to effect a purpose : agent, instrument <mournful and terrible engine of horror and of crime — E. A. Poe> b: something that produces a particular and usually desirable result <engines of economic growth>3...

in theory it could be done... I'd question the performance though.

Awesome! Glad to hear it! Last summer I fought with ignition problems all summer long; eventually replacing the points and condenser and pretty much solving the issue. Mine acted a bit different than yours though; it would run well for an hour to two hours straight, then just become a total...

just do the electronic conversion... you'll be a lot happier. Trust me on this!

Unfortunately, no I don't. I was pretty much at the mercy of my dash tach when setting my timing. But, mine seems fairly close to accurate judging by engine sound and what the tach shows when my rev limiter kicks in (tach shows whatever I have the limiter set to). I'd say go to napa or...

The electronic conversion isn't a service item. Meaning, you take your standard points distributor... install the conversion inside the distributor... and you're done. There is no servicing required. If it malfunctions of breaks for some reason, you replace it or the ignition modual. That's...

After installing my MSD ignition and coil, my boat fired up much easier... but, I got my mallory magnetic electronic distributor installed today; what a difference this whole set-up has made! I'd speculate that the engine hardly makes more than one rotation before coming to life. That's really...

hell, if the fish are boiling, that's perfect timing... they will be done quicker once they hit the grill right?!?!

ambient air temp? Never too hot!!! I spent an entire day at the pool in Baghdad a few years ago; peaked around 130 degrees. Water temp was around... I'd say 90. Sounds like bath water... but it felt like ice water at first. Then you get out and the water evaporates off your body so fast...

Just to kind of set the record straight... the type of distributor (points, magnetic-hall effect, optical) is much much different than an ignition box. When the ignition system you're referring to is the type of distributor, what you're really talking about is the pick-up, timing and advance...

Well, the wind coming from oil fill is blow by of some sort; either valve seals or compression rings. I'd have to agree with JVM in that boat engines don't "wear out" the same that auto engines do. BUT, a very real problem that boat engines can have is seal failure due to dry-rot. Seems boats...

on the grand river here in lansing (unfortunately it's the closest place I have to do test runs). Might make it out your way this weekend though; yet to be seen.

Picture (wiring has not yet been tidy-ed up):

So my manual says 6 or 8 degrees advance timing depending on distributor; there was no way I could figure out which distributor I was running. BUT, I checked my initial timing before I pulled my old distributor to install my Mallory magnetic; the marina had it set to 1 degree. Interestingly...

Thanks for the heads up air... some of that I'd already planned on; others I'll have to add to the list! I am leaning toward the SEI drive option, for the simple reason that repairing the skeg (either with a cut-off/weld on or new lower) will run me about 1/3 the cost of an entirely new drive...

I would say a more simple system would be better... as someone said, some sort of kudos system. But... in reality, I'm pretty indifferent... and because I'm sure there are TONS of features on sites like these that I don't know how to use (this rep system being one); I don't even think my vote...