^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is the key. I also sit at 13' 4 1/2". Follow the semi-trucks, they are 13'6".
Trees are my biggest problem and remember that limbs sagg 6 or more inches when wet.
It appears that factory wiring to these type bulb fixtures are not connected with any concern for polarity. In changing over to LEDS, my boat, a friends 04 340 and another 04 360 were all random on polarity for these type fixtures.
Once you get the trailer right, this will improve your trailering experience 100%.
https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/chevrolet/silverado-1500/2012/rear-wheel-drive/?bed_style=78.7+in.%2F6+ft.+6.7+in.+Bed#l
I use the Yeti for ice preservation and other coolers for the beer since they are nonstop opening anyway. For ice only, it will keep it 4+ days in 90+ temps in the FL sun.
Any of these computer controlled engines can/will cover up for a dead cylinder, regardless of cause and the symptom will be exactly as you describe.
With everything else apparently normal check the plugs, wires, cap/rotor in that order. ( the cap/rotor is usually a hard or no start)
Easier...
Aren't those inside tabs fixed? If so, I would take about 95% of the deflection out of them and see how it plans. Put just enough back in if needed to get on plane with the Bennetts full down.
I have been running Costco fuel (E10) for 4 years with no issues, however it does not stay in my boat very long. Just changed the fuel filters this year, they were dirty but was running good.
I pull my 290 with an F250 Powerstroke and put about 4000 miles a year on the trailer with no issues. Obviously, stopping is the issue, so trailer brakes are paramount.
BTW, I am 13' 4 1/2" vertical, so watch the trees and bridges.
Ok, with what you have said I am down to "guessing" the problem is either air in coolant, thermostat, or sensor.
Getting air out of coolant. This solution was on another board --
*Filled at the pressure cap and the overflow bottle
*Bleed screw removed (located at the opposite end of the...
Backflush intake line from strainer to through hull.
Check impeller. If a vane is missing, find and remove it. Even one vane in the exchanger can cause overheat.
Check water outlet temp.
Check oil level.
When did you change the impeller and were all the vanes intac? If there were any missing, did you find them all?
The anode is behind the water inlet to the cooler, the wrench flat is brass. Hold a cut in half water bottle under it as you remove it to catch the salt water.
Any ideas? It has new plugs and runs great if started cold or cool. I ran it this weekend for 22 hours straight after I finally got it re stated. It needs about 5 hours off to get it to start. If it is hot I get 2 "pops" and then 5 seconds of cranking and an OC code with raw fuel in the exhaust...