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Spot on! I’ll enjoy a cold one at the dock to thank you! Cheers!

I did discover that the voltage drop was at the Relay connector. I cleaned and adjusted contacts and resolved voltage issue. I did still need to replace electric fuel pump to solve all issues. Thank you to all that assisted.

OK guys, the relays tested fine off the connectors and there is 12.5v at connectors constant, the other terminals on relay connectors were zero until start switch was activated, then they read 12.4 on one connector & 11.3 -11.7 on the other. There in no humming/noice on starboard engine when...

There are 2 relays near the fuse block mounted to top of engine, I did not check voltage there, but will. I cannot make it back to boat until Fri., so maybe I’ll have multiple suggestion on trouble shooting by then. Thanks to you and thank you to techmitch both for quick replies

Unplugged, measuring at connector

Hello all, new issue I’m hoping to get some help on from this helpful group. 2004 Sundancer, 5.0, Bravo III. Starboard side electric fuel pump will not energize. Wire harness at pump has only 10.5-11v when start switch is activated. At the other end of that harness the connector has 13v. The...

Vinyl floor looks very nice, can you provide a few more details please? Was that a pattern, did you work with a distributor? Thank you

There is a post on 2/12/2014, on this thread, with one alternative for the microwave

Hatch is 32 1/8" wide, 15 1/4" high and 16 3/4" between latches (inside edges). I have a 2004 280, I did not confirm they were the same.

Battery diagram originally posted in 2011 by "old thirty three", link below. Deep cycle house batteries are the two forward. Post #1807 http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/10064-Official-280-Sundancer-Thread/page181

They do have an internal fuse in the charger, but the units do also go bad. Replaced mine in a 2004 280 this past spring. Fairly easy replacement, ordered online, updated version has digital display.

Nice to see some WV boaters surface, not enough of us. Kudos to WRVOND, looks like you were a big help. Charleston marine and Trojan Landing right next door, both seem solid from my experience with both.

Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater I dont think you you can easily remove the WH, it's very tight on dual engine models (5.0). The front of the WH had a corner bracket that held element in, had to remove it and part of metal case around tank to get to it. Not easy, but...

Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater Had same issue with breaker and water heater on 2004 280. Replaced element, thermostat & high temp sensor. Wire connectors were corroded, element a pain to replace, others easy. Solved problem.

Remove 3 nuts inside transom locker. 1 in the center and 1 on each side, behind the vertical boards (walls) on both sides. 4 screws to remove each wall (one has power and water hook-ups).

Well, now that I know how to take ring off (thanks to Eddie), does anyone have a replacement for the 110v bulb, it seems to be a different size screw-in base?

I also have a zippered door, no need to get in a hurry, still some cold weather likely here. Did get 2 projects done though.

I found this post by old thirty three helpful to me, not sure if yours is same http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/10064-Official-280-Sundancer-Thread/page181

Looks like mine (600w xtreme) is struggling to keep up. It's on a trailer, but has also been fully winterized.

I use Acurite as the boat is in driveway and can access home wifi. I can monitor/view bilge, cabin & outside temp from anywhere. It's overkill as everything is winterized and I have a bilge heater, but interesting to watch variances.