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If it's that thin it should be fairly easy with a Marine Paint Stripper. The key is to keep it moist so it keeps working through the layers (in your case doesn't sound like many). As long as you're seeing gelcoat under the paint so you know a high build primer wasn't used and you can restore the...

Here is a great article on how to apply bottom paint. You should use an ablative bottom paint that wears off over time. Also note: Painting bottom paint on bare fiberglass is ok (provided you removed all the wax and have sanded it) , however, you will get better adhesion with using a marine...

You only need to repaint your bottom paint if it is "Hard" bottom paint and out of the water longer than 72 hours. Ablative bottom paints can be out for months and can be pressure washed/ lightly scuffed and put back in the water. Here is the reason: The copper in the paint oxidizes when...

You actually get alot more product when you use a quart and brush it on VS the aerosol spray. Half of the contents on the spray is the propellant!

Painted mine with last year with Tuff Stuff ($38.99 for 1/2 gallon) and Mission Bay bottom paint. ($44.88 per quart) I had used Trilux in the past and Mission Bay performed better. Going to reapply with the Mission Bay again this year.

You need an ablative bottom paint (that will chaulk) if you are going to trailer it. The alternative is a hard bottom paint (will not chaulk). The problem with using this type of paint is once you take it out of the water that paint oxidizes and becomes useless with 48 hours. An ablative paint...

VC 17 will change colors after a couple of weeks in the water. This is because of the copper dust that is used. Copper also does not allow for brighter colors. Silver Bullet is brighter in color because it uses zinc dust. The color will not change. What you see is what you get. Hope this helps...

Here are some bottom paint comparisons. I bought Sea Hawk's Monterey here. It is water-based and competes with Hydrocoat, but has 15% more copper for the same price! Also is guaranteed by Sea Hawk for one 1 year against growth. Also got free shipping,

I would not use a sandless primer. This creates a chemical bond instead of a superior merchanical bond achieved by sanding. Sandless primers are used by the OEM because they are easy to use in the manufacturing process, not because it is superior. In fact, you will inevitably have problems in...

You should use a copper free bottom paint. Trilux is the most well known paint, but I have found that Mission Bay by Sea Hawk works better and last longer. It is not quite as soft, and uses zinc omadine as the biocide instead of copper thyocinate in Trilux. The zinc omadine is a much better...

Here is a good article on using Tip Top Teak products. How to restore your teak wood..

Try using a rubbing compound before waxing. Since your boat is only 7 years old, you should have plenty of thickness in the gelcoat to allow for a rubbing compound to be used to remove the oxidation. Rubbing compound will remove the very top layer gelcoat of oxidation to show the shiny gelcoat...

Even if it is not ablative, you can put an ablative bottom paint on top of a hard bottom paint. So I would go with an ablative paint that is compatible with most everything. Sea Hawk Paints claim that their bottom paints can go over any other bottom paint. Try one of their self-polishing...

I have used it. You need almost double the amount of bottom paint. Two coats will give you plenty of thickness and protection. You need about 4 gallons of epoxy and at least two gallons of bottom paint.

It is not as necessary for vinylester construction, but a good barrier coat system on the bottom of the boat also aids in bottom paint adhesion and durability. If you dont have bottom paint on the bottom already, or plan to sand the bottom paint off, I would put on a good barrier coat prior to...

Nothing out there is really great because they cant contain copper, but the best I have found for outdrives is Mission Bay Outdrive Paint. You can get it in a spray, or a quart. Be sure to use a whole can for each outrdrive...made that mistake before.

You should look at Sea Hawk's Hawkspeed. Its like propspeed but easier to apply and cheaper! Here is the link: http://hawkspeedusa.com/

Have not had experience with VC Epoxy. A friend of mine just removed his ablative paint and went with a product called Sea Hawk Silver Bullet. It has some antifouling, but designed for fresh water and has brighter colors than the Interlux VC products. Worth checking out: Silver Bullet Friction...

I actually have had great luck with Sea Hawk Monterey bottom paint. I called Sea Hawk two years ago, and they assured me that Monterey is completely compatible with hydrocoat. It has about 15% more copper, and I have had better results with it then Hydrocoat. (still working strong) I found out...

Make sure you get the ablative version. If you get the hard modified epoxy version, the paint will lose all of its effectiveness after 72 hours out of the water. Hard bottom paint is NOT recommended if you are going in and out of the water. It really will be just for looks!