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Well, my assessment is that you are correct. Its not possible to do with the engine in the boat. I removed the elbow, riser, and manifold on that side and the connections to the remote adapter are just far too buried to be accessible. I've cut the remote oil line below the filter at the...

Thanks for the reply. I'm heading back to the boat shortly to spend some time trying to stick my head down there (port engine, port side) to see if I can get a better visual read on the connection. So far I haven't been able to find a video or photographs, and the diagrams and available...

I have discovered that I have a pinhole leak in the metal pipe that supplies oil to the remote mount oil filter. Its a pinhole leak, but a fair amount of oil leaks from it rather quickly, so it must be replace before the engine can be run. Regrettably, I found this out after completing a...

Update: I pulled the panel on the port side of the locker. The panel has a faucet type fixture on it, and a connector for a hose to use shore water, as well as the shore power electrical connector. There are five or six screws. The water leak was coming from a two feet long pex pipe that...

Back at the boat for an infrequent visit, I filled the water tank and confirmed that the water pump worked when I opened the taps, and that is would fill the toilet. But it seems not to want to stop. I checked all the taps and outlet, and they appear closed. I noticed that, while the pump...

280 starter switch

You can take some comfort reading my thread where I assumed I had a fuel pump problem but in fact it was a combination of older spark plugs plus old fuel in the tank. It started with one engine that wouldn't make more than 3200 rpm, and eventually became two.

Just completed both engines spark plug replacements using Denso Iridium IT16 plugs. Im in the social security category and it took me about two hours for each engine. Three plugs on each engine are quite quick, and the other three took me a lot longer. The easy plugs are the two...

Scofflaws first instincts were correct in post #2. I'm back to the boat, and decided to throw in a new set of spark plugs on the starboard engine just to see what might happen. It took me nearly two hours to do the change, because of age and inexperience on this boat. I'll post a spark plug...

Back to the boat for a couple of days. I was able to measure the fuel pressure key-on, engine off, and it measured at 40 psi on both engines ( I only have the problem on the one engine). I havent tried to measure it with the engine running yet. Just wanted to get both engines checked and...

Thanks for that info. Much appreciated. I may do that (pull the fuel damper/regulator) to check it out. Mine is pretty accessible....... a lot more accessible, I think, than spark plug replacements, for instance. Given the recall bulletin referred to in your last link, do you think I can...

I edited post #10 upstream with additional info.

Thanks for the guidance. I don't get back to the boat for a couple of weeks. I'll try to keep all this in mind. Boat tech's post explains why I had such trouble figuring out why I couldnt match my regulator at the end of the rail to the one in the diagrams for my engine. EDIT: Engine...

Thanks for the replies so far. I did change the fuel filter as my first line of remedy, and it didn't have an effect on the problem. I've looked up a fuel pressure gauge from autozone that sells for $50 or so and I think I'll buy it to be able to test. That should eliminate the fuel pump...

I've been having problems with starboard engine not acheiving full rpms, not being able to get above about 3500 or so, and to get there the port engine has to be at 4200 or so, the boat having achieved full plane. This problem surfaced during my last trip to the boat, although that engine...

This process is stretching out because I don't get to the boat very often. I pulled the fuel cooler module off, and tried to clear the blockage, which was extremely difficult. The salty clay-like residue had hardened just at the base of the module where the seawater makes a 90 degree vertical...

Thanks. The tach needle part of the gauge works fine. So does the 4 in 1 analogue gauge (which appears to run off some of the same cabling as the tach/lcd). The LCD readout is utterly intermittent. Sometimes blank. sometimes garbled with intermingled data, and odd stuff. Now that I've...

Thanks. So that suggests that its the gauge, based on my test done below. Said another way, the data doesn't know which gauge is using it. I did finally disconnect the input plug connector from the good gauge and plug it into the bad gauge. At ignition "on" I got nothing from the...

Progress update. I haven't been able to swap the connectors for a test of the gauge unit vs. the input integrity, but I did come up with a workaround for my depth display. Using the tach/lcd for the port side, I got into the CAL1 menu, and toggled through it till I got to depth sensor...

I doubt this is related to your issue, but: I discovered by accident that on my 2007 280 Sundancer that some of the speakers are not operable unless the port battery switch is set to "both". It took me a long time to discover that, and I've never found any documentation of it. For me it...