Hi Joe,
My SeaRay was parked next to yours at Dagmars for the last couple of years, (I just moved to covered storage in Sept.). I purchased my boat 2 years ago only to find serious structural rot problems after the sale.
It took me about 8 months of rebuilding but now it is better than new...
I went with Veada seats on swivel posts and am very happy with the results on my '88 230.
Here is a pic of me pre-fitting them before a total rebuild of the hull last year. Using pedestal seats I was able to put 4 large storage hatches on the floor.
Looks like all my picture links have been stripped from the thread.
:huh:
Coosa is very easy to work with, it is basically foam with fiberglass reinforcement, so it cuts and sands easily. I used an epoxy bonding resin to adhere it to the existing transom glass. I could dig up the brand name...
My thread on transom/stringer repair is just below yours, at this point I would pull the motor and gut the entire boat. The wood wicks the water all over the substructure. Looking at the photos you already are pretty far in and might as well go all the way, or rue it later.
I would love to find a 27-29 foot at that price that needs a total rebuild, especially something like an Amberjack style.
For $800 you have a good opportunity to earn some good sweat equity.
I have an '88 230 WE and love it. You only have a wood core in your transom most likely. I can not say for sure though because your model is slightly newer than mine and it is possible they switched to composite core by then (but unlikely). Your bottom and sides should be a solid fiberglass...
Thanks, I updated all the pics in this thread from the first page on so the majority of the work can be seen right here.
Here is another pic of the gantry I made to pull the motor as well.
The upper beam is a 4x4 with two 2x6 runners bracing it on both sides. With the full weight of a...
One more compilation picture of the engine bay from final fiberglassing to engine install.
Starting to rebuild engine bay, using Laminated Coosa boards for the engine supports.
Rough fitting the Coosa boards, the lower shelf are 1.5" thick boards and will be seriously strong.
More rough...
Coosa comes in thicknesses up to 1.5". It's screw holding ability is excellent. I took two 4 inch circles I cut out with a hole saw and screwed them together with a single 3" drywall screw and no one in my shop at work could pull them apart with their hands. In several places I used laminated...
PROJECT COMPLETED!
I wrapped it up last June including an upgrade to a Bravo Drive and rebuild of the 454 Magnum and all new engine accessories.
Rough cut through transom repair, bonding epoxy visible.
A good friend found the drill jig on Craiglist which made drilling the two extra Bravo...
The cabin floor was not in too bad shape, but under the carpeting there was a few soft spots and the wood is rather rough as they did not use cabinet grade plywood since it was covered in carpet. Since I would prefer to not have carpeting I am replacing all the flooring and adding extra storage...
High res pictures are being published in this public photo gallery if anyone is interested.
http://cid-d3134f5795afd827.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Sea%20Ray%20230%20Restoration
Or visit my FaceBook restoration webpage that gets updated regularly as I progress and contains build comments...
In reply to the question about foam:
I am removing all the existing foam and will be replacing it when closing out the areas. The foam adds greatly to the structural support of the hull and adds a measure of flotation as well if flooded. The existing foam was only saturated in a few small areas...