OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

Hoping someone could help me.

Just took the boat out this weekend after changing fluids last weekend and ran about 40 miles when suddenly loosing power and blowing black smoke out the port motor. Engine was running about 180F during the time of the mishap.
Boat motor is a cat 3126. The engine starts and idles well. I can hear the turbo spin up when I rev the engine under no load. When idled up in gear it blows black soot smoke and will not produce power.

Also before losing power my original Raytheon ray data speed, depth, and water censor went to bars across all three categories.
I have been having trouble with this unit locking up in the past to where I had to hit the 12V disconnects to reset it. Now it is on and not locked up but has lost all data. Thinking something may be wrong with the transducer. Can I change out these through hull transducers while the boat is in the lake? Also we now have zebra muscles in the lake if that could be a problem. Is there a new system I can change to to get depth and water temp?

Thanks for the help.
 
Hoping someone could help me.

Just took the boat out this weekend after changing fluids last weekend and ran about 40 miles when suddenly loosing power and blowing black smoke out the port motor. Engine was running about 180F during the time of the mishap.
Boat motor is a cat 3126. The engine starts and idles well. I can hear the turbo spin up when I rev the engine under no load. When idled up in gear it blows black soot smoke and will not produce power.

Also before losing power my original Raytheon ray data speed, depth, and water censor went to bars across all three categories.
I have been having trouble with this unit locking up in the past to where I had to hit the 12V disconnects to reset it. Now it is on and not locked up but has lost all data. Thinking something may be wrong with the transducer. Can I change out these through hull transducers while the boat is in the lake? Also we now have zebra muscles in the lake if that could be a problem. Is there a new system I can change to to get depth and water temp?

Thanks for the help.

Mine did this just prior to requiring a rebuild. Is the air filter on the blow by hose filled with oil? It's a small filter that's on top of the engine. Mine was so full of oil/fuel it was blowing on to the exhaust which is where all my smoke was coming from.

cat-3126-engine.jpg
 
I think this is the same hose and no I have not checked that filter. Are you saying that you needed to rebuilt your turbo or engine?

This hose blew oil into the exhaust and smoke came out the back correct, or did the oil drip down the engine and onto the exhaust manifold and create smoke in the engine room?

The first photo is the port motor and the other is the starboard.
Blow By 1.jpg
Blow by 2.jpg
 
Black smoke is in burned fuel. So... you most likely have 1 of 2 issues.

1. Air restriction: are your filters clean and are the aftercoolers clean?

2. You have a issue with the turbo, could be a turbo, wastegate, or most likely a hose going into the turbo is leaking and the turbo won’t spool up under load.

There could be some other causes but look at the simple things first. Remember this though. You don’t have a fuel problem.
 
Black smoke is in burned fuel. So... you most likely have 1 of 2 issues.

1. Air restriction: are your filters clean and are the aftercoolers clean?

2. You have a issue with the turbo, could be a turbo, wastegate, or most likely a hose going into the turbo is leaking and the turbo won’t spool up under load.

There could be some other causes but look at the simple things first. Remember this though. You don’t have a fuel problem.


Thanks for the reply.

The filter is a K&N I do not think could be clogged. I will check the hoses, but it just lost power so fast I think it is a turbo.

After speaking with Cat dealer they informed me that the old turbo has been discontinued and the new turbo will require a new exhaust manifold. Does this seem correct?
 
That’s a question for Mr Webster but don’t discount the hose deal. If a clamp broke and the turbo is not being fed exhaust gas then it won’t spoil up under load. Make sure you check all the hoses.
 
That’s a question for Mr Webster but don’t discount the hose deal. If a clamp broke and the turbo is not being fed exhaust gas then it won’t spoil up under load. Make sure you check all the hoses.

Just an update. After visiting the boat this weekend I checked the blow by hose and filter and found them to be free of fuel/oil. The engine sounds good and strong. After running around the lake in the engine room I noticed that the intake manifold on the good starboard engine is 30 degrees warmer than the problem port engine. I think this is due to the turbo on the port engine not compressing the air and in turn warming the air. The roomer has it that the fan on the exhaust side of the turbo is spot welded to the turbo shaft and that they were breaking.

I am going to replace the turbo with the same one and not the updated turbo and exhaust manifold.

I will keep you all updated.
 
Just an update. After visiting the boat this weekend I checked the blow by hose and filter and found them to be free of fuel/oil. The engine sounds good and strong. After running around the lake in the engine room I noticed that the intake manifold on the good starboard engine is 30 degrees warmer than the problem port engine. I think this is due to the turbo on the port engine not compressing the air and in turn warming the air. The roomer has it that the fan on the exhaust side of the turbo is spot welded to the turbo shaft and that they were breaking.

I am going to replace the turbo with the same one and not the updated turbo and exhaust manifold.

I will keep you all updated.


The turbo failed 1100hrs on port motor. The spot weld holding the fan blade to the through broke, fan was spinning not the shaft or compressor.

Boat runs stronger than ever. Port engine is still running about 10 degrees warmer than the port engine. I have read about others with problematic port motors as well.

I have ordered the new I50 tridata to replace the Raytheon tridata. I was informed by raymarine that the I50 will hook up to me existing transducers with 1/8" blade connectors but I will need a new power cord. Hopefully it all works and my transducers are in operating order because I was not able to pull them out. They may be painted in.
 
Hope someone can help with this (actually, I hope you don't have this problem...) My starboard engine will sometimes die, usually at idle, leaving the harbor. Had Cat out (3126) and they replaced solenoids, some other electrical stuff to no avail. It seems to be the throttle shifter, after jiggling it will restart. Cat said it's not a cat issue, which I understand. Is this a DIY adjustment, or do I need to trace electrical back to the engine? I've heard of some having to replace an "undersized" wire...
 
12 volt solenoid in your electrical box at the front of the engine... Let me dig a little and I'll get the Bosch part# and you go buy at any auto parts store... Buy 4, replace both and carry spares. I spent several boat dollars on this issue.
 
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Hope someone can help with this (actually, I hope you don't have this problem...) My starboard engine will sometimes die, usually at idle, leaving the harbor. Had Cat out (3126) and they replaced solenoids, some other electrical stuff to no avail. It seems to be the throttle shifter, after jiggling it will restart. Cat said it's not a cat issue, which I understand. Is this a DIY adjustment, or do I need to trace electrical back to the engine? I've heard of some having to replace an "undersized" wire...

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/cat-3126-shut-down-while-running.79104/#post-897486 #9
 
Does the alarm sound? I actually had a bad switch. When in the RUN position, occasionally the port motor would just shut down like it was flipped off. My indication was no alarm. If I flipped to OFF then back to RUN the alarm would sound.
 
I really appreciate your response and digging up the old post. We replaced all of those to no avail.

I have replaced neutral safety switches, starter switch at the helm, my engines were replaced in '02 and they have big wiring connectors for the main wiring harness on both engines. I have unplugged them, sanded the contact points and put them back together with dio-electric grease... Sometimes I still have to hit the starter switch 2-3x to get the engine to kick over.
 
Does the alarm sound? I actually had a bad switch. When in the RUN position, occasionally the port motor would just shut down like it was flipped off. My indication was no alarm. If I flipped to OFF then back to RUN the alarm would sound.
Thanks. I think I'll switch them and see what happens. Appreciate it.
 
I have replaced neutral safety switches, starter switch at the helm, my engines were replaced in '02 and they have big wiring connectors for the main wiring harness on both engines. I have unplugged them, sanded the contact points and put them back together with dio-electric grease... Sometimes I still have to hit the starter switch 2-3x to get the engine to kick over.
Thanks ... this sounds like a perfect next step.
 
I just read an old thread about an engine dying 70 miles offshore and it turned out to be a loose connection on a lug at the main battery switches (mine are located under the helm bench seat).
 

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