Pulling new cable to the helm

GnrlPatton

Well-Known Member
Jul 12, 2010
708
Maple Valley, WA
Boat Info
Current: 1998 370 Express Cruiser
Sold:1988 230 Weekender
Engines
Twin Cat 3116T
I'm starting a project to redo my stereo - out with the old Clarion M5170 and M635 CD Changer, and in with a new Clarion M608. I want Bluetooth and USB/iPod connectivity. I also am looking to replace the old remote helm control with the new MW1. Given that the cables aren't compatible between the new and old remotes, I need to pull the new cable from the stereo control in the galley up to the helm. The electronics cabinet in a 370EC (where the stereo is) is on the port side, just forward of the head, whereas the helm is on the starboard and aft of the head. That means the existing cabling routes from the cabinet over about 6-7 feet, and then turns 90 degrees to the stern and continues for another 5-6 feet before it comes out a hole behind the radar display.

I can access either end pretty easily, and I had a fiberglass wire snake to try to fish the lines through, but it's the 90 degree bend that is killing me. I spent several hours yesterday with no luck, I even had a USB endoscope that I taped to the wire fish to try to see my way through it, but that didn't work. I'm not sure if it's possible to do this, or if I need to start looking at taking some of the interior headliner down. Anyone had success at this? If I do have to take the headliner down, any ideas on how to do that? I didn't see any obvious screws or clips, it seems like it's attached up there pretty solidly.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
If you haven't pulled the old cable out yet, try attaching a line to it and pull it out. Attach the new cable to the line, and pull back thru.
 
I should have mentioned that, the old cable is zip-tied/electrical taped all through (from what I could see on my camera) to the rest of the big bundle - including the ignition wires and others. That part surprised me, I didn't expect to see stereo wires tied to anything else given the potential for interference. All told, there is probably 20 wires for various functions tied together in the bundle.
 
Wires get installed before all of the boat parts are put together. So they must be secured in some fashion - either directly by themselves, or along with other harnesses.

I think you're going to have to take things apart - or get a longer cable and go to the bilge, then back up the stbd side. If you can post a few pictures of what needs to be removed, maybe I can help. But often, to remove a ceiling panel, other things have to be removed first. Unless you can find something else that is easily removable in the vicinity of where you need to make that 90*. In "most" boats, it's not a small job to do what you want to do, though. Are you SURE you need/want a remote at the helm? Most likely, the primary control will be through phones, right?
 
when and if you get something pulled thru tie 3 or 4 extra pieces of string to it so you will have a easy way to get other things thru in future
 
Taking down the headliner is a pain. I had to do part of it to get to a wiper motor, not designed for maintenance, that's for sure. If your chartplotter unit at the dash is a NMEA 2000 compliant unit, and you have a network on the boat already, maybe there's somewhere else closer that you can tap into the NMEA 2000 network? Then you can control the stereo from your chartplotter/MFD. That's how I dealt with my new Fusion stereo that replaced the OEM Clarion unit. I didn't bother with a remote, just run everything from my Garmin. The old Clarion remote hole is being used for a dual USB charging port for things like phones and tablets.
 
Try this, it worked once for me but it depends how much conduit space is remaining. On the end of the fish attach a golf ball or smaller if needed. Make sure it's super smooth like a golf ball. Attach by drilling into the ball and hot gluing it to the end of the fish. Carry the wire by taping it behind the ball to the fish. The ball helps get around bends since it's not pointy and less to catch on.

Hope that helps.
 
There is another easier way to do this. If you haven't already purchased the new unit, or if you have and it can be returned, look for a unit like the Fusion receivers that have apps that work as remotes. I installed one of the Fusion 700 series units on a 52' motoryacht. I hate pulling wires in boats so I researched and the Fusion units, and maybe some others by now, allow you to create a small network within your boat. On the Fusion you use their free app and it will control all functions of the stereo with a smart phone or a tablet. It was great and worked perfectly. I had the app on mine and my wife's iPhones as well as our iPads so anywhere we were we had a remote. Another option is to turn your navigation device at the helm into a remote as well through the NMEA network if you GPS/Chart plotter is so equipped.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I think I'm going to move forward with the rest of the install without running the wired remote for now, and if I can't find an installer that can get the cable snaked through, just go with the wireless remote. I will figure out what to do about the hole where the current remote is, but there's a few options for that.

Unfortunately the NMEA networking is not an option, my electronics are old and use the 0183 standard, which has a limitation on "talkers", and my GPS chart plotter already fills that role.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I think I'm going to move forward with the rest of the install without running the wired remote for now, and if I can't find an installer that can get the cable snaked through, just go with the wireless remote. I will figure out what to do about the hole where the current remote is, but there's a few options for that.

Unfortunately the NMEA networking is not an option, my electronics are old and use the 0183 standard, which has a limitation on "talkers", and my GPS chart plotter already fills that role.
I put the same stereo in my boat this year and used the existing remote with an adapter from clarion. Does all the basics for the stereo and a whole lot easier. Hope that helps.
 
Does the old cable have the same number of wires in it or more? If so, clip the ends off of it and then splice the new connectors from the new cable onto the old wire.
 
I put the same stereo in my boat this year and used the existing remote with an adapter from clarion. Does all the basics for the stereo and a whole lot easier. Hope that helps.
Oh wow, I had no idea. That definitely helps, I'll hunt that down and use the old one until I can find a way to route the new. Thank you!!

@skibum the old cable has fewer wires. I guess that the basics will work (power on, volume, switch channels, etc) but the digital display won't. To me that's more of a cool feature / nice to have, but the basics are a must have. I can live with the temporary solution until I figure out the cable routing thing.
 
I recently replaced my head unit in my 97 330EC. Assuming the layout is pretty similar to the 370EC, pull the large plastic insert on the starboard wall immediately next to the helm seat (contains a cup holder and map tray). It is held in place by 6-8 screws. Some are a bit tough to get a screwdriver to access. You’ll need a very short one for some of them. This will give you access to all of the wiring. You will have direct access to the 90 degree bend you are referencing.
 
Oops. Just re-read your post. The head unit on a 330EC is located in a cabinet on the starboard side.
 
Oops. Just re-read your post. The head unit on a 330EC is located in a cabinet on the starboard side.
You got me all excited for a second there. :) I just wonder if there is some way to access it through the windshield hatch motor hole or something, it feels like the bend would be somewhere near that area. I'll have to look at that.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,946
Messages
1,422,785
Members
60,930
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top