Run a temporary wire from the block to the ground buss bar. If that solves your problem, you'll need to trace out the normal grounding wire from end to end.
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do you have a Smartcraft capable engine? The water pressure sensor is a common item to fail and gives a specific set of codes, (ckt high, ckt low, pressure low, high, if I recall) but without a smartcraft sc5000, or similar, would be hard to tell. I have had to replace these sensors on both engines, I think they get fouled up pretty easily. I carry a spare now, probably will get 2 if I ever take a long trip. If you don’t have an sc5000, or vesselview, but the engines support one, you can purchase the Bluetooth smartcraft adapter from Merc for 250$, and get all the engine codes, from both engines, on your smartphone along with rpm, temp, fuel flow, water pressure, etc. in both cases, the error code was either ckt high, if I recall. Was the tech able to get the code?So I had a service tech from Petersen Marine out this AM. After talking about what I'd been experiencing and running a few diagnostics, he thought it might be the transmission water pressure sensor. So he swapped the sensors between the engines and.... the problem followed the swap over to the starboard engine.We took a short boat ride across the Harbor over to Marine Max to fetch the part (much shorter than walking back to the car and driving over, driving back and walking back out to the pier) and he installed it. He cleared the codes, confirmed again both engines firing up properly with no codes, and we appear to be fixed!
He said he's seen this once before - that a water sensor could fail and cause all sorts of electrical misbehavior in the ECM and engine. There was definitely an electrical issue, causing the ECM to power the fuel pump (which flooded the fuel rails and left the injectors firing randomly) and throwing up the weird RPM readings. But it all appears to have been caused by the failed transmission water sensor. Go figure.
In hindsight, I was "this" close to figuring it out myself: I had checked the seacock on that raw water line and had verified the strainer was clean. The exhaust had good water flow, so I concluded the raw water part of my exhaust was working properly. And it was. Except for the pressure sensor. Lesson learned: When dealing with electrical symptoms, there may be a single failure that results in the "appearance" of other problems. I'm not sure when I would have ever gotten around to checking this sensor, however. On my lists were things like fuel pumps, fuel filters (even though they are new), fuel and oiil pressure sensors, crank position sensor, and others. This sensor wasn't even on my radar to check. At least I'll know next time...
So I'm crossing my fingers and hoping this is the real fix (you never know, until you log a few hours with a repair, you know?).
Thanks for all the help!
Ah, this makes sense. I would recomend you get acces to those codes. One way, is to get the 270$ vesselview mobile adapter (provides data on 4 engines I think, so you only need one) which allows you to see the codes along with rpm and everything else, on your phone or tablet. There are 2 codes, so far, which I have been able to correct myself, on the water, no mechanic involved. One was for the IAC, replaced back at the dock, the other was the water pressure sensor. The first time I needed help, the second time, I had the parts on hand and was able to keep the boating day going.I do. But I have smart craft going through a NMEA2000 gateway to get to the helm. What appears on my chart plotter is that there is an engine fault, but it does not provide the breakdown of exactly what the fault is. That may be a limitation of my Simrad plotter, or it may be a limitation of the smartcraft Gateway. Either way, I don't get the code at the helm.
Ah, this makes sense. I would recomend you get acces to those codes. One way, is to get the 270$ vesselview mobile adapter (provides data on 4 engines I think, so you only need one) which allows you to see the codes along with rpm and everything else, on your phone or tablet. There are 2 codes, so far, which I have been able to correct myself, on the water, no mechanic involved. One was for the IAC, replaced back at the dock, the other was the water pressure sensor. The first time I needed help, the second time, I had the parts on hand and was able to keep the boating day going.
Rich, I’m sorry I must have missed which sensor you were referring to. Or, were you expecting an image to be shown on your post?Does anyone know the part# for this sensor?
available from NAPA?
Thanks
Rich
Does anyone know the part# for this sensor?
available from NAPA?
Thanks
Rich
True, but 150$ now is better than ruining a vacation because I had to run on one engine and can’t make it to the destination, or worse, make it back home.All that’s good, but the water sensor is a $150 item. Pricey spare!
Could you please pass along the part numbers to the spare parts you mentioned above if you happen to have them. ThanksI keep a spare water pressure sensor, 2 IACs, and 2 fuel pump relays. On the relays, I had to remove the fuel pump relay harness, they both went bad. I simply spliced on 4 quick connects, and bought a 14v 30amp(might be 40?) automotive relay, and these have been good for over a season now. I tried a 12v relay, lasted for 15 minutes.
Could you please pass along the part numbers to the spare parts you mentioned above if you happen to have them. Thanks