Official 380 Thread

rondds said:
Light smoke...probably nothing
temp gauge...do you mean it shows the engine running too hot? if so, how hot? confirm with IR temp gun? if temps are normal maybe a bad gauge/bad ground to gauge?
water dripping...dripless shaft log not making a good seal. You have every right to ask that that be repaired or negotiate with seller that YOU will fix, but sale price should reflect this.
squealing...no idea on this. Anyone...
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Thanks, I didnt document the number but he seemed to think it got hotter than his 340. That might be because these engines are recirculating where his is water cooled. he did come down about 10 % from ask so how much is it on average to fix the drip?
 
All these mercruiser engines are designed to run around 170*.
Tough question to answer. If you just have to replace the seal it's not that expensive. If you have to replace the whole shaft log, which is the blue thing that houses the seal, it's a haul out, the parts are about $500 and figure $100/hour for labor, probably 4 hours (?)
 
I'd love to know the year of manufacture of your engines too. Do you know if this boat was repowered or those are original motors. MOST 2001 or earlier 380s came through with 7.4s. Only relevant b/c early 8.1s had aluminum exhaust manifolds and a less troublesome fuel cooler. If you can get the engine SN's you can call Mercruiser for date of manufacture.
 
rondds said:
I'd love to know the year of manufacture of your engines too. Do you know if this boat was repowered or those are original motors. MOST 2001 or earlier 380s came through with 7.4s. Only relevant b/c early 8.1s had aluminum exhaust manifolds and a less troublesome fuel cooler. If you can get the engine SN's you can call Mercruiser for date of manufacture.
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These are original, the seller and my buddy mentioned that they were the top of the line engine. for the model. I have a brief case of documents to go through, so hopefully I can find the OEM spec sheet in there. Unfortunately the guy that does surveys is a couple weeks out, but once I get it completed I will share the findings to the community just in case others are having a similar symptoms. Thanks!
 
rondds said:
All these mercruiser engines are designed to run around 170*.
Tough question to answer. If you just have to replace the seal it's not that expensive. If you have to replace the whole shaft log, which is the blue thing that houses the seal, it's a haul out, the parts are about $500 and figure $100/hour for labor, probably 4 hours (?)
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Yeah I want to say somewhere around there maybe 160s.

$1000 is not bad considering the savings on the ask. Yeah; I was googling around and watched a couple videos, doesn't seem that complex, but, I am too "FAT" to do it myself lol. Maybe I can get him to split it with me.
 
Good deal on the motors. You don't have to worry about the disastrous Cool Fuel 3 system. Be sure to put a magnet on the exhast manifolds. If it doesn't stick you've got aluminum. Is the boat in salt water? IF so the odd of aluminum having survived all these years is slim.

Too fat or not, a great thing about this model is all the elbow room in the engine room! Your mechanic will appreciate it.
 
rondds said:
Good deal on the motors. You don't have to worry about the disastrous Cool Fuel 3 system. Be sure to put a magnet on the exhast manifolds. If it doesn't stick you've got aluminum. Is the boat in salt water? IF so the odd of aluminum having survived all these years is slim.

Too fat or not, a great thing about this model is all the elbow room in the engine room! Your mechanic will appreciate it.
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Good Idea, I will test that out to see if it is aluminium or steel. No the boat has lived its entire life in Lake St Clair, MI which I intend to keep it.
 
EVEN BETTER!
Sounds like a creampuff! Best of luck to ya!
 
triad said:
Over simplified but any possibility you have cockpit door open underway? Simple but many of us have sailed with that open and the fumes pull right in...
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sorry for the late response. I am still searching. Its not the cockpit door though. Its always closed.
 
Hello everyone

My 03 380 has the original suite of electronics (Raymarine RL80C, RN 300 etc). My depth alarm goes off sometime every 5-7 seconds and shows all different depths. This is underway or at the dock. Sometimes it wont do it for hours. I know that I am in water that is more than adequate (example-I am in depth of 9 feet and the alarm will flash 1.9 or 2.2 etc). Its extremely annoying and can be a little scary as well. By the way this is all intercoastal between New Smyrna Beach and Cocoa Beach.

Thanks and I always appreciate your advice!
Ray​
 
Mine was doing the same thing so I had to set the alarm depth to 0 just to stop the annoyance. It didn't solve the underlying issue though. Mine is only when underway though.

Ray Chandler said:
Hello everyone

My 03 380 has the original suite of electronics (Raymarine RL80C, RN 300 etc). My depth alarm goes off sometime every 5-7 seconds and shows all different depths. This is underway or at the dock. Sometimes it wont do it for hours. I know that I am in water that is more than adequate (example-I am in depth of 9 feet and the alarm will flash 1.9 or 2.2 etc). Its extremely annoying and can be a little scary as well. By the way this is all intercoastal between New Smyrna Beach and Cocoa Beach.

Thanks and I always appreciate your advice!
Ray​
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Anyone ever find the systems monitor inteface location? Getting a data link failure mess, cleaned and reconnected under the dash.. now looking to find the interface...
 
Systems monitor BIM location on the 380 is on the engine room, FWD bulkhead behind the black plastic cover to the port side of the circut breakers... super easy to get too
 
I have entire canvas set up for sale. Not sure what it is worth
20180524_193324_resized.jpg
(front and side isen glass , Bimini tops, slant back,and track zippers ) From our 2000 38. The cover is blue and is in fair shape. ? We just changed ours out to tan color. Photo taken this May
 
On my 2003 380 it seems my GPS got turned off somehow. I cant get the GPS status signal to even try to lock in on the RN 300. Also, when I turn the radar on, I get a constant alarm for No Fix which I'm assuming because the GPS isn't working. Any ideas?

This picture is from when it was working. I compared some settings from a friends 340 and everything seems to be the same. I have the Electronics switch on the helm on thinking that powers navigation electronics. No longer does it show me how fast I'm going but it does show the rudder and compass coordinates.

10CD2A2C-88E8-496E-8F11-7BD502ECFADB.png
 
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Hi All, I closed on the 2001 380 past Wed and stayed in it for the first time last night and it was amazing. Very comfortable. The survey did point out major oxidation on the deck and seats. What is your routine to rub/polish/wax? Also how about the oxidation on the seats? I tried vinyl sauce and it didnt seem to do much I seen a video and the guy recommend meguiars degreaser/water 5:1.

In my own research multiple people recommend the following for the oxidation and restoration of the fiberglass.


3m 35928 Finesse-it II Marine Glaze - 1 Quart

3m 05954 Super Duty Compound 1 Quart


Thoughts? (Apologize if this was answered earlier this is a significantly documented thread!)
 
Hi ALL,

Does anyone have the Coax schematic? The boat is set up for satalite and the shore cable jack is not working. would like to configure it into the receiver so that I can get both.

BTW here is a picture. It is not me in the boat but the previous owner.

boat0001.jpg
 
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