Calling all 360 DA owners

I am away from my boat for the next two weeks and am trying to figure out what V Drive transmissions i have. I want to order a spare filter but can't find the part number for the filter or transmission. 2002 360 Sundancer W/496S horizons.

My survey report on my '03 says "ZF Model 630 V-1", I'll be onboard tomorrow swapping plugs and wires if you need me to visually double check mine....
 
My survey report on my '03 says "ZF Model 630 V-1", I'll be onboard tomorrow swapping plugs and wires if you need me to visually double check mine....
Thanks. I have the same plans for my next time at the boat, change plugs and wires and also tranny fluid. The transmission change will be a first for me so if anyone has any helpful ideas it would be great. I plan on cleaning and reusing the filters but to be safe i will be ordering two new ones for spares (i have a habit of dropping things overboard). Also what plugs are you planning to use, from what i'm hearing the Delco ones don't last that long?
 
So sometimes even a quick tuneup can turn into your worst nightmare.....

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Ugg! And that is all I have to say about that...

So, I got the easy out snugged into the broken plug hole.... The 3/8 inch battery impact wrench didn't have enough horsepower to back it out.

The 1/2 inch air impact wrench that I use for lug nut service on my cars and trucks couldn't get it to budge either, even running it through several cycles of compressor recharges to over 110 PSI. A total over over ten minutes of jacking on the easy out, that thing is seized up in there. Gonna have to pull the head. Anybody got some good gouge on removing and replacing a head on the 8.1? I'm guessing these are probably "torque to yield" bolts that need to be replaced.

I'm going to continue this thread over in "Gas Engines" sub forum....
 
I just had my starboard 8.1s rebuilt. The mechanic busted 2 head bolts in the process.
 
I just had my starboard 8.1s rebuilt. The mechanic busted 2 head bolts in the process.
Yeah, I'm worried about this, could be the most expensive tune up ever. The outboard side of the port motor (where this plug is broken off in the head) is showing signs of corrosion that was not found during survey. I can only see it by removing the exhaust riser, laying on the motor and shoving my head between the holding tank and the manifold....
 
We just had something similar. We had a rough running starboard engine at low idle, but oil pressure and temperature were normal during operation. Survey last year at this time show nothing amiss. Our new mechanic stuck a camera probe into the sparkplug holes last month and we both saw salt encrustation in the cylinders on the starboard engine. We got a reman long block for the starboard engine, new exhaust manifolds on both engines, and a new stainless steel exhaust elbow to replace a corroded one. Mechanic said the port manifolds were ready to go.

I can't help but think that if the survey mechanic had a camera probe we'd have mad a different purchase decision a year ago. Happy our current mechanic has one of those probes. We spent quite a few boat dollars, but save quite a few, too.

Seeing the salt in the starboard cylinder saved us continuing to run the boat and having the starboard engine seize up. As it is, we were able to just get "get by" with a reman starboard long block and since the old one was good (i.e., not seized), the core charge wasn't applied so we saved potentially $1500 there. Plus, we saved the port engine from a similar fate.
 
We just had something similar. We had a rough running starboard engine at low idle, but oil pressure and temperature were normal during operation. Survey last year at this time show nothing amiss. Our new mechanic stuck a camera probe into the sparkplug holes last month and we both saw salt encrustation in the cylinders on the starboard engine. We got a reman long block for the starboard engine, new exhaust manifolds on both engines, and a new stainless steel exhaust elbow to replace a corroded one. Mechanic said the port manifolds were ready to go.

I can't help but think that if the survey mechanic had a camera probe we'd have mad a different purchase decision a year ago. Happy our current mechanic has one of those probes. We spent quite a few boat dollars, but save quite a few, too.

Seeing the salt in the starboard cylinder saved us continuing to run the boat and having the starboard engine seize up. As it is, we were able to just get "get by" with a reman starboard long block and since the old one was good (i.e., not seized), the core charge wasn't applied so we saved potentially $1500 there. Plus, we saved the port engine from a similar fate.

If you don't mind me asking, what's a ballpark figure on an 8.1 long block (without labor)? If this head gives me as much problem as the rest of this "tune-up", I might be needing a new motor :-(
 
The mechanic charged me $6499 for the long block. There was a $1500 core charge that we did not have to pay because our core was in good shape.
 
Has anyone experience their generator not running - or not keeping things running - correctly? On the hook this weekend, and decided to start the generator to make some snacks for the family. Used the microwave to heat some things up. The generator would not keep the microwave running. At first, I had the a/c on as well, so I shut that off, and tried shutting off anything else that may add to the load. No improvement.
Any ideas?
 
If you don't mind me asking, what's a ballpark figure on an 8.1 long block (without labor)? If this head gives me as much problem as the rest of this "tune-up", I might be needing a new motor :-(
ALL 18 HEAD BOLTS REMOVED WITHOUT ISSUES! The plug remains have been removed by a machine shop while I waited. (Thank you Barnettes Engines in Chesapeake!) Get the gasket set today..... Boy that cylinder head is heavy!
 
I have a cockpit cover from a 2003 360 Sundancer. Black, great condition, used it for indoor winter storage (no sun damage) 3 adjustable poles. $400 plus shipping. Completely cover windshield glass to transom. Sorry, these are the only pics I have of it.
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Has anyone had the entry steps break at weld? My bottom step broke off. Weld cracked then broke all the way off.

Does anyone know how step pole unbolts from boat. I figure it has to come out to have it re-welded.
 
Got my port motor back together last Wednesday. Shakedown run Thursday evening for an hour and a half. Made the cruise with the club on Friday 2.5 hours on a plane (except when beaten back by some huge rollers in the bay, climbing up, then surfing down). Engine ran fine for a total of five hours most of the time @3100-3200 RPM.

Believe it or not, I still get the droplets of petroleum product in the exhaust, so the spark plugs (and wires) have all been changed but the initial symptom is still there. P.S. this is the cleanest engine I've ever worked on, no carbon in the head and just a slight bit on the pistons and no oil sludge anywhere.

I'm thinking the next step is to pull the injectors for cleaning / flow check.
 
Soon to be new member here. Just waiting on the survey to take ownership of a 2003 360 Sundancer. A little intimidated by this size craft, but can't wait to take ownership. We have about 15 years of boating experience starting with a 15' bow rider, then a 20' center console and for the last 7 years a 30' Doral Cruiser with twin 5.7 Merc I/O.

For those that have made a similar jump, how tough is the learning curve to operate with separate throttle and gear shifters?
 
For those that have made a similar jump, how tough is the learning curve to operate with separate throttle and gear shifters?
I went from a 23’ deck boat, to a 320 with with twin vdrives and separate throttle and shifts, picked it up without issue. Have made a couple of emergency maneuvers and accidentally shifted when not in idle, but have been fine since. Felt better after reading about the transmissions, “do not shift unless you are in idle, however, the transmission can handle shifting when not in idle in emergency sirustions”.
 
I think it’s a common feeling of concern when any of us make big jumps in boat size. The 360 handles extremely well. It took me just about an hour to feel completely comfortable. I much prefer the throttles and trsmission sticks separated. With your boating experience the 360 will give you no trouble. Just remember as always....go slow and neutral is your friend...
 
Glad to hear. The slip we are getting at the marina is a straight back in, no finger piers or anything to navigate so docking even in a wind should not be a problem. I was pretty comfortable with the 30' and could maneuver in tight spaces and walk the boat pretty much sideways if needed, but the 360DA is 30% longer and twice as heavy so I am sure there will be a learning curve. The current owner also assured me it was not difficult. His advice was set the rudders straight, throttles just above idol and then just use the transmission sticks. I am sure I will have more questions once I have the boat (already read all 58 pages and Doesn't Shuck blog). Right now just trying to make it to the survey at the end of the month without already having a list of upgrades. My wife already wants to know if it is possible to have underwater LEDs installed when the boat is hauled for the survey. :)
 
I'll mirror what the others say as far as handling. My previous experience was a 30 foot Catalina sail boat in the '90s and recently an 18 foot bow rider with a single 4.3. My brother in law let me drive his Regulator with twin outboards one time and I showed him what I knew of a "twist".

My dock has narrow fairways and a strong tidal current that (obviously) changes four times a day, so needles to say, it can be challenging to back in when the current AND the wind gang up to conspire against me. That being said, I have only been tempted to bump the throttles up past idle once while docking when the current and the wind were relatively strong. I say tempted, but I didn't need to do it as the 8.1 have decent authority even at idle. I've been told you can bump these transmissions in and out of gear all day up to 900 RPM without ill affect.

Your experience with the 5.7 twins, will have you greasing it in in no time. Pick a nice calm day and give it a few shots. I never use my rudders as they are relatively small and don't do to much at docking speeds.

People tell me "never go faster than the speed you are willing to bump into things".

Phasma sez "neutral is your friend" and he is right: While docking, I think I spend more time in neutral and only bump it into gear until direction or speed changes, then pop it back into neutral and wait for the next needed input. It is a whole lot harder to describe than to actually do it.
 

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