420 DA Thread

SRMark said:
I have a part number that I got from Raymarine customer service, R49085. They told me to contact a local Raymarine distributor. I gave that number to them, they contacted Raymarine to get one and they told them it is no longer available. I will try West Marine and some other local dealers.
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I was given the run around at first as well... Try calling West Marine Harrison Twp - 586-465-5401
I bought mine there last summer so at least they would have a record of it. They could drop ship to a WM near you
 
I replaced the charger/converter yesterday afternoon and I have one very happy boat.

Some of you longtime 420/44 owners may know much of this already...Some lessons learned.

*Check the status running condition of the charger nearly as often as checking the oil.
*The first thing that shut off was the galley fridge then the stereo. If that stops working don't start shopping for a new fridge , check the charger status and then the port batteries
* It seems that the Port side is the master of most systems including CO detectors, stereo, Vessel View & electronics, galley fridge, cabin & cockpit lighting. If one of these is misbehaving, don't start shopping for a new fridge or stereo. ALL of these dropped off the grid as the batteries continued to run down. Meanwhile, all along starboard batteries remained reasonably charged, enough to start the starboard engine and the emergency start the port engine.
* If a battery is 0 volts d-e-a-d, the engine will not stay running until and unless there is a little bit of voltage there.
* Almost nothing runs off shore power alone, it all has to get through that charger/converter.

The OEM charger has been superseded multiple times. Ultimately narrowed it down to the unit in the following pics.
chargerclose.jpg
charger1.jpg
 
Blueone said:
I was given the run around at first as well... Try calling West Marine Harrison Twp - 586-465-5401
I bought mine there last summer so at least they would have a record of it. They could drop ship to a WM near you
Click to expand...
I had mine rebuilt by Raymarine in NH, they turned it around in 2 weeks
 
Looking for your lessons learned when you purchased. I am looking at a 2005 420 with 6CTA Diesels with about 1100 Hours. I have not learned yet of services maintained on the engines but hope to as we continue to discuss and evaluate. Based on your experience what should I be aware of and/or investigate with this year boat and engine setup? Appreciate your help!!
 
Overall the 42/44 DA's from 05-07 are great boats. Common issues you will see on these boats from that time frame aside from general condition are the hoses in engine room need to be replaced if they haven't been recently, and sea water cooling maintenance on engines.

No matter which "C" series Cummins the boat has if the after coolers have not been pulled apart cleaned, inspected and lubricated in last 2-3 years (for salt water boat) you should either have that done as part of purchase or plan on replacing at least one of the two after coolers. You should also plan if it hasn't been done to have both the fuel cooler and heat exchanger cleaned as well, but those don't need to be done as often. The aftercoolers should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

In the 05 to 07 years you will have one of three "C" series.

6CTA (aka 450hp)- full mechanical (no on engine electronic control)
480CE (aka 480hp) - electronic controlled fuel
QSC (aka 500hp) - full electronic

Biggest hangup with the 480CE is they really should be propped like the 6CTA, read up on it in the engines section of this forum and/or sbmar.com.

If the hoses in engine room haven't been replaced you will probably find all of them - especially the waste hoses - very dry and starting to crack.

Since you seem to be looking at 05-07 I assume you already know the hard top is worth its weight in gold! Some 2004's have them so don't necessarily rule out the 2004's.
 
Blueone said:
Has anyone replaced your hatch lift actuator?... I just bumped into the port one and it broke...so it must have been close to going. I remember reading a post a while ago about replacing with a different manufacturer but can't find it.

Thanks
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I did mine .. ill look tomorrow at brand . ull have choices on the opening speed. I should have gone faster . I went original .

will post tomorrow brand
 
Two quick questions!

1) I noticed yesterday that my lower gauges fogged when underway. They cleared up when at anchor but fogged again going home. Only the lower gauges fogged, in the lower portion of the gauge. What could be causing this?

2) My stock cockpit fridge only works on alternating current. Is it supposed to work on direct current as well (like the cabin fridge)?

Thanks all!
 
radaron said:
I replaced the charger/converter yesterday afternoon and I have one very happy boat.

Some of you longtime 420/44 owners may know much of this already...Some lessons learned.

*Check the status running condition of the charger nearly as often as checking the oil.
*The first thing that shut off was the galley fridge then the stereo. If that stops working don't start shopping for a new fridge , check the charger status and then the port batteries
* It seems that the Port side is the master of most systems including CO detectors, stereo, Vessel View & electronics, galley fridge, cabin & cockpit lighting. If one of these is misbehaving, don't start shopping for a new fridge or stereo. ALL of these dropped off the grid as the batteries continued to run down. Meanwhile, all along starboard batteries remained reasonably charged, enough to start the starboard engine and the emergency start the port engine.
* If a battery is 0 volts d-e-a-d, the engine will not stay running until and unless there is a little bit of voltage there.
* Almost nothing runs off shore power alone, it all has to get through that charger/converter.

The OEM charger has been superseded multiple times. Ultimately narrowed it down to the unit in the following pics. View attachment 56516 View attachment 56517
Click to expand...
How did you decide on the 12-40 p? as opposed to the 12-30 or 12-50?
 
kysearay said:
I am looking for a console canvas for my "05 420 DA, has anyone got a source? A friend of mine has one for his 06 44 DA and I love it. I cover my console with towels now, just dont like the look of it!!!
thanks
chris
Click to expand...
Maybe you can borrow your friends and have a copy made for your boat.
 
radaron said:
The cabin key for most of us is an "Ilco T06". I bought the blanks at my friendly MarineMax parts department for $16 each. Brought them to a local locksmith who had them hanging behind the counter. His price...$5.75 each. The following pic from top to bottom...the new key, the MarineMax blank w their part number and another key that was in the pile of keys that came with the boat.

View attachment 55731
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After locking my cabin door when leaving today, I can not find my cabin door key(only one I had) my fear it some how fell out of my pocket and is at the bottom of the marina. Door locked and no key, can the locksmith get the lock off the door?
 
Lots of boats have the same key. Start asking your friends with Sea Rays to try there keys :)
 
If all else fails, I'm sure a locksmith can open it. Along those lines, a friend was leaving the boat with me one day, and he said "Don't you lock the door?" I told him, "The really expensive stuff is on the dash, and if some one breaks the door to get in, that door is the most expensive thing that I would have to replace." I never lock the door.
 
Try shoving the top part of the door open. Grab the two rubber bumpers and give a good shove.
 
J.Wilt said:
After locking my cabin door when leaving today, I can not find my cabin door key(only one I had) my fear it some how fell out of my pocket and is at the bottom of the marina. Door locked and no key, can the locksmith get the lock off the door?
Click to expand...
Unscrew the hinges, you'll be in in about two minutes.
 
Doc O Rock said:
How did you decide on the 12-40 p? as opposed to the 12-30 or 12-50?
Click to expand...
Wasn't anything more scientific than coming up with the closest match to the original that had failed. The OEM was a Protech 12-40, which lasted 12 years. If anything I would have opted for "more power" and gone to 12-50. Looking over the specs as well as the tight space to mount the thing, I figured the wisdom of the engineers behind the original system should be heeded on this one.
 
radaron said:
Wasn't anything more scientific than coming up with the closest match to the original that had failed. The OEM was a Protech 12-40, which lasted 12 years. If anything I would have opted for "more power" and gone to 12-50. Looking over the specs as well as the tight space to mount the thing, I figured the wisdom of the engineers behind the original system should be heeded on this one.
Click to expand...
Mine is still putting out, but I noticed it's making more noise than ever.
 
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