Broken snap screws

boatman37

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2015
4,211
pittsburgh
Boat Info
2006 Crownline 250CR. 5.7 Merc BIII
Previous: 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. 260 Merc Alpha 1 Gen 1
Engines
5.7 Merc BIII
I have a couple of snaps on my aluminum windshield frame that are snapped off. Any easy way to get those out? Or should I just screw in new snaps right next to the broken one? Probably too small for an extractor. I could try drilling out the broken piece but I'm sire if would drift off center, which would be fine as long as I can get a new one screwed in.
 
Yeah... if you cant drill them out, I would just add a snap beside it and add the new matching one to the canvas.
 
Drill them out with the right sized bit and rivet in a new one. It's way easier than you think and you'll be much happier with the results. Use a pair of pliers wrapped with painters tape to prevent it from spinning while drilling.
 
Drill them out with the right sized bit and rivet in a new one. It's way easier than you think and you'll be much happier with the results. Use a pair of pliers wrapped with painters tape to prevent it from spinning while drilling.
You mean put the pliers on the broken screw? There isn't anything to grab onto. It's broke off flush with the windshield frame. I have some new screw in snaps and even a couple oversized. I have a couple of loose ones in the fiberglass so bought a pack with oversized screws so if I can drill out the old one then replacing it with the oversized one should be ok? These 2 screws are only used when I have the front isenglass in which I hardly ever do so it isn't critical, just my OCD wants them fixed...lol.

Might try to drill them out tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes. Any idea what size bit I might need?
 
Ah. I see. Well, my snaps broke off and left a little to grab on to. I used whatever drill size was appropriate for the rivets I was using (I think they were all 1/8". I would still try. They are probably too small for EZouts, but start with a spring loaded center punch and a small 1/16" drill bit. Take your time and be patient with it. It's worth a try anyways.
 
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I have some left hand drill bits that work well for stuff like this. Truth is typically they grab the remaining portion and unscrew it.

Josh
 
I have some left hand drill bits that work well for stuff like this. Truth is typically they grab the remaining portion and unscrew it.

Josh
Didn't know there was such a thing?
 
If sea Ray installed the snaps with screws, then the screws are stainless. Stainless screws are really, really hard and nearly impossible to get a bit to stay centered and get a bite. Verify the size, but I believe a 1/8" pop rivit fits the hole in a snap perfectly. Be very gentle and go slow but try drilling out the screw with a 1/8" HSS drill bit, Even if the bit walks off center a tad, you can still install a snap with a pop rivit. It might be a bit off the center, but there should be enough stretch in the canvas to get all the snaps fastened while covering the hole in the windshield frame.

On an '86 model boat, I think I'd remove all the screwed in snaps one at a time and replace them with aluminum pop rivits. The 1/8" rivits fit in the snap and a future repair is as simple as drilling out the rivit and putting a new one in its place. The extruded windshield frame is hollow so the old rivit just stays inside the frame, never to be seen again.
 
True about the SS screws Frank. Very hard to drill SS. I will give it a try tomorrow or Friday. The top is new and pretty tight so not sure how much I can stretch it but should be enough if it is off center by 1/4" or so. Also, these 2 snaps are in the upper right so the front isenglass is what snaps to them. I should have enough adjustment in my front bimini portion to allow me to offset the screw if I need to.
 
Well whatta ya know....they were already aluminum rivets...lol. Drilled out real easy. ended up putting the regular screw snaps back in but will be buying some rivets to use those.

Thanks!
 
Put the change to aluminum rivits pretty high on your priority list. Stainless screws or rivits will cause dissimilar metal corrosion that eats the less noble metal, which is your windshield frame. Repairing bubbled up powder coating is a major and expensive job.
 
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will do. have to run to the hardware store later anyway so will get the rivets then. and try to find my rivet gun...lol
 
1/8” cobalt center drill is the way to go.

If needed flatten the broken end with a Dremel and abrasive wheel so you’re not trying to start on a funky surface.

The cobalt drill will cut the S/S like butter.
 
I got them out pretty easily with a regular bit. They were aluminum rivets. I went to the hardware store and bought aluminum rivets tonight but can't use the snaps I have. They have the threaded post and it doesn't seem like they are removable so must need different snaps? We have a couple cushions at the place that did our top so will be going there in the next week or two. I will see if they have the correct snaps. The other issue is my rivet tool. It's probably 20 years old and is flat across the face where the rivet sticks out. Not sure it can cut the rivet into the recessed snap? I will try it and if not buy a newer one.
 
I had to file the tip of my rivet tool to more of a cone shape to allow it to sit deep enough into the rivet. Took all of 10 minutes.
 
I had to file the tip of my rivet tool to more of a cone shape to allow it to sit deep enough into the rivet. Took all of 10 minutes.
Nothing to file on mine. Mine is flat the whole length of the base. Probably have to get a different one or borrow one
 
You can use a spacer between the flat of the gun and the inside of the rivet. You need something that is hollow for the shaft of the rivet to slide through, yet narrow enough to fit inside the rivet. Think "skinny, hollow steel tube". I used a roll pin. Any local hardware store should have them.
 
You can use a spacer between the flat of the gun and the inside of the rivet. You need something that is hollow for the shaft of the rivet to slide through, yet narrow enough to fit inside the rivet. Think "skinny, hollow steel tube". I used a roll pin. Any local hardware store should have them.
interesting. will look into that
 

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