Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Decided to go with shoot thru the hull. What kind of epoxy should I use? Should I build a little temporary frame to hold the epoxy to get it up on the shoulder of the transducer?

Go get electrical putty that they seal the wire on top of your electric meter on your house, clean a spot in your bilge and stick your transducer to that and you'll see if it works in that spot. Had mine stuck that way for two years and it hasn't moved yet and you can move it anytime you need to. if you glue it down there needs to be no air pockets and also there needs to be no air pockets in your hull in the spot you want to mount it or it won't work right and this way you'll find out without the transducer getting mounted permanently.
 
3B210B98-C396-4BC8-9C84-D1B405D13E57.jpeg
It’s plasteak.
 
Go get electrical putty that they seal the wire on top of your electric meter on your house, clean a spot in your bilge and stick your transducer to that and you'll see if it works in that spot. Had mine stuck that way for two years and it hasn't moved yet and you can move it anytime you need to. if you glue it down there needs to be no air pockets and also there needs to be no air pockets in your hull in the spot you want to mount it or it won't work right and this way you'll find out without the transducer getting mounted permanently.
Great
 
Well, a pretty inauspicious start to my 330 ownership experience. 30 minutes into first cruise, the port motor (7.4 Merc) overheated and quit. Limped back on the other one. It will fire but quits after a couple seconds. During that couple seconds makes a noise like compressed air escaping from a compressor. Any ideas???
 
Well. You need spark and fuel to keep it running. Take a peak in the carb to make sure it’s getting fuel. Since it’s new to you might want to do full tune ups. Plugs cap rotor and change fuel filters

Good luck
Saverio
 
Well, a pretty inauspicious start to my 330 ownership experience. 30 minutes into first cruise, the port motor (7.4 Merc) overheated and quit. Limped back on the other one. It will fire but quits after a couple seconds. During that couple seconds makes a noise like compressed air escaping from a compressor. Any ideas???

You posted earlier about no water coming out of an engine. Did you replace the impellers?
 
Well. You need spark and fuel to keep it running. Take a peak in the carb to make sure it’s getting fuel. Since it’s new to you might want to do full tune ups. Plugs cap rotor and change fuel filters

Good luck
Saverio
Just came out of a tune up at a reputable marina. Was running fine before the overheating.
 
Just figured I'd share some insight I've gotten over the past two weeks fighting with my 4.5KW Westerbeke generator. It may be helpful to someone in the future.

Brief history: I bought my 1998 330 back in December. At the time of my survey, the generator would fire up, run four about five minutes and power down. This happened numerous times. It had no problem firing and ran fine until it shut off. I decided to start researching.

My research yielded that there are three sensors that could be causing this. Two temperature sensors and an oil pressure sensor. After digging, I found a loose connection at one of the sensors. If you're having this problem check this first. Unfortunately for me, the sensor prongs had been bent and when trying to straighten them one broke off. Fast forward to new sensor. Generator is now running. I go to the panel, switch to the generator side from shore power and get nothing at the panel. Generator is humming right along.

More research. Generator giving no power, common fix is to switch everything off and start applying load, and specifically, the water heater. I did this. Sure enough, I get power at the panel. However, the power is far from where it should be. The generator is making about 60V vs 120V. The same thread which recommended exciting the circuit with the water heater pointed to a bad capacitor. After ordering and installing a new capacitor, I got the same result. According to the manual, I should get 120V at 3,600rpm. BINGO. Listening to the engine, there is no way it is turning 3,600. There are three adjustments on the governor to adjust motor rpms.

The first and main adjustment is the idle screw which adjust the governor arm. This is the arm that adjusts as load is applied. After crawling into the engine bay again, and finding the screw, I see it move but no change in the arm. Closer inspection revealed that the arm had worked its way off of the adjustment screw and was no loosely hanging off of the side. After searching for the proper ratchet to adjust the arm mechanism, I went back down and tightened it. The arm and spring mechanism is now resting where it should and holding the carburetor in the proper position.

After heading back down to the remote panel and firing up the generator, I hear it is running at a significantly higher RPM. Finally, I switch the shore power to generator power. 120-130V at the panel. I can now run all of my accessories, including the AC which is a big one down here in Florida.

Moral of the story folks is make sure that everything is tight and connected before looking for a more complicated solution. I apologize for the narrative style of the post, but hopefully putting all the information in one place will help someone in the future. If I were to list the number of threads and websites I went through to get to this stage, I'd have a proper bibliography on this post. All in, I spent $26 on a new capacitor I didn't need and learned a lot.

Happy Boating!
Nic
 
get a thermo temp gun from hf there cheap follow the water path with the gun. its probably risers. I don't see where you boat ? saltwater?
if you have the combo fuel / water pump , one of those functions took a crap. I found a complete new unit on ebay for about $350 , installed it , now back in my happy place. I just pay attention to the oil level in the fuel pump actuator side.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-WATER-...4L-502-8-0L-/162634464002?hash=item25ddc4fb02
 
Last edited:
Hi guys - I have a 1995 Sundancer 330DA. I don't have access to the boat for a few days but I know I need new engine bilge area blowers. I would like to get them ordered so I can replace them. Does anyone with a similar boat know what size / type I need? Thank you in advance.
 
installed my house bank battery box and 6v golf carts today. it fit nicely and I can still get in there to access engine stuff. the box was found on ebay for 75 bucks , really heavily made with wire cutouts in the corners. when I ready , im going to have the yard wire them up along with the new batt charger install and another batt switch. I plan on creating a 3 bank system by having this new house bank independent from the starting , and moving the house feed over to the new batt switch. the engines will now each have their own independent batt / switch. I have a new isolator readt y to go in as well , which is a 3 bank / 2 alternator. eventually would like to wire a small inverter to the house bank using the old generator wiring to feed the panel.
IMG_5373.JPG
IMG_5374.JPG
IMG_5378.JPG
IMG_5379.JPG
IMG_5384.JPG
IMG_5387.JPG
 
Can anyone share pics of their TV installation where the old one was? I searched but most of the old links no longer work. We would like to put a 19” tv there and use the existing shelf. Looking for the best kind of mount/bracket to use. Possible? Thanks!
 
Can anyone share pics of their TV installation where the old one was? I searched but most of the old links no longer work. We would like to put a 19” tv there and use the existing shelf. Looking for the best kind of mount/bracket to use. Possible? Thanks!
I just put a dual voltage 13" in the spot
IMG_5388.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5392.JPG
    IMG_5392.JPG
    86 KB · Views: 122
Can anyone share pics of their TV installation where the old one was? I searched but most of the old links no longer work. We would like to put a 19” tv there and use the existing shelf. Looking for the best kind of mount/bracket to use. Possible? Thanks!

Here is mine. Its a 19 inch Vizio LCD. Swivel mount is awesome to watch from bed or the dinette. Excuse the fish eye lens.


40708044291_ab31531d7b_k.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Some late 1990's 330DA updates:

Its been a while since I posted these pictures (and they were on Photobucket so the links are all long broken), but here are a few simple mods to my 330DA. :

1. Port side cup holder mod to make it actually functional
2. Cut-out of the stereo cabinet door so the door does not need to be opened to use it.
3. Other cup holder on the dash on the starboard side (also shows the new dash panels from Flounder Pounder)
4. Inverter mounted in the starboard cockpit storage
5. Golf Cart battery box below the inverter
6. Nova Kool 5810 fridge (just awesome!)
7. Cup holder on cockpit sink (hiding under the line) as well as rod holder for use with downriggers and as my BBQ mount














 
Last edited:
I have a 99 330 Dancer and need to replace 2 sets of batteries. I have 2 on the port side in the bilge and 2 on deck under the seat cushion behind the captains seat. I'm assuming the 2 in the bilge are for the engines and the 2 under the seat to be house batteries?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,467
Members
61,033
Latest member
SeaMonster8
Back
Top