Help identifying anode kit..

Black Valkyrie

Black Valkyrie

Active Member
Jul 19, 2014
688
Canada
Boat Info
1993 Sundancer 270 DA
Engines
Twin 4.3
So I'd like to replace my anodes and paint my stern drives. Up until now I have paid my mechanic to do this but the task seems super straight forward. I'm stuck at step one which is identifying which anode kit to purchase. I have a 1993 270DA with twins. I'm a member of the searay owners club - they list my hull # and engine serial #s but not my stern drive.#s. The engine prop matrix lists that have Alpha 1 CR drives but doesnt specify if they are gen 1 or gen 2. Some vendors list the anode kits via serial number range for the sterndrives but I dont have that info. Other vendors go by date but claim gen 1 is 1991 or lower. Gen 2 is 1993.

Calling my mechanic will just net me a service call and charge. Any ideas on how to identify what I have? I can post photos if that helps. Boat lives in the water 24/7 so I need all the parts before I can plan a haul out.

Also - anyone install a galvanic isolator?
 
1993 would be a gen 2. Even knowing that there are a few things you still need to know. If you have Metcathodes, you won't need the transom zinc block, do you have flat puck zinc on the cavitation plate or gun style abides? Do you have abides on the thin tabs, on the mount screws (BNT 1) for Bennet tabs and/or rudder abides on the planes themselves? Do you have any pictures you could look at from your mechanics work to help? How about an itemized parts list on you bill?
 
I'll look at my last bill but it's all hand written so chances are little detail. Will post some pics later today thx
 
20180517_083211.jpg
SmartSelect_20180517-082608_Gallery.jpg
20170722_144529.jpg
 
Can you haul out, remove anodes, run over to Martin Marine in North Van with them and get the replacements? They have a really good selection there ...pretty much anything you would need anode wise.
 
Looks like a Alpha 1 Gen 2 kit is what you need for the drives. If you have a mercathode system (can’t see the underside I your pictures but you can look for them on your motors) you can skip the blocks that go in the bottom of the drives.
Do you have any other zincs on strainers or screens underneath the boat for a/c?
 
Only other anodes I have are on the trim tabs.

Yes I could do Martin Marine but would rather preorder everything if possible. Dont want to be stuck out on the hard paying daily if they dont have something in stock.

Assume according to the anode application guide these should be aluminum and not zinc as I am moored in salt water? To confirm I would also need aluminum then for my trim tabs?
 
Check with the local boat yard and see what type of anodes are being used in your area and conditions. I'm in salt water and use zinc anodes on the drives and tabs, you may find that aluminum works well for you.
Looks like you Gen 2 drives with the fins. Look for Mercathode controlers on the engines. They are blue rectangular boxes about 2x3 inches and about a half inch think with four terminals on them. If you have them, then you can skip the block anodes under the drives by the hydraulic lines. If not, you will need them.
 
Black Valkyrie said:
Anyone install something like this? Has it worked out?

ProMariner 22034 ProSafe 30 Amp Galvanic Isolator https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001C417OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DRV.AbPPYEP32
Click to expand...

That has a separate purpose.
It goes inline on the ground wire between your shore inlet and your 110 panel.
It prevents low levels of stray current from coming in to your boat through the ground wire.
Your 1993 270 probably already has one, or should have come with one. It may be an older model and is probably pretty well hidden behind a panel but it’s most likely there.
 
JVM225 said:
That has a separate purpose.
It goes inline on the ground wire between your shore inlet and your 110 panel.
It prevents low levels of stray current from coming in to your boat through the ground wire.
Your 1993 270 probably already has one, or should have come with one. It may be an older model and is probably pretty well hidden behind a panel but it’s most likely there.
Click to expand...


Thanks.. seems doubtful based on the level of sea growth and anode erosion rate that there is a (functioning) galvanic isolator on board..
 
Contact Boatzincs . com. They have good advise when dealing with anodes. They have always been helpful when I called them.

-Kevin
 
If you have fresh water cooling there is likely pencil zincs in the heat exchangers.
 
My boat has a closed cooling system for both engines and lives in the water. Is there a photo or a guide to where I might locate any anodes in the cooling system? Twin 4.3s thx
 
They will be screwed into the heat exchangers, usually on top, and likely have a brass plug on them. Mine even have red arrows that point at them and say ZINC.
 
Okay thanks - I'll check. Like I mentioned in my original post I've had our mechanic do all this up til now but I feel (provided nothing is forgotten) I can easily complete these tasks... I just need to know all the tasks involved.
 
boatzincs.com it is cheaper to buy the "kit" but it comes with the transom plate so if you have mercathodes, just don't use the transom plate. i have tried to ask them to make 2 kits since they make them up themselves anyway and they said that they don't have enough interest. the price still can't be beat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,154
Messages
1,427,384
Members
61,060
Latest member
Danileo
Back
Top