Thanks for the quick reply Tom!
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Thanks for the quick reply Tom!
You need to remove the four screws in each corner of the black backer board which holds the TV. Lift it out and the TV is bolted from the inside.Has anyone replaced the TV in the salon? How do you get the TV out of the cabinet?
You need to remove the four screws in each corner of the black backer board which holds the TV. Lift it out and the TV is bolted from the inside.
How did you mount that TV, looks great.I agree with CAMELLA. Below is what we replaced ours with. A 40" HDTV with a small sound bar on the bottom, and the subwoofer is under the salon sofa with the vacuum tools. The former TV cabinet is now used as additional storage.
View attachment 54720
How did you mount that TV, looks great.
Thank you for the reply Tom.Thank you. I used a flat wall mount from Best Buy that allows you tilt the TV forward slightly, and just used 2 lag screws for the mount and then simply set the TV on the mount. If you pop off the panels (they're held on by the famous SR christmas trees) there are several 2" x 4" 's running vertically behind there that I attached it to that made it sturdy. I just marked it out on the cherry panels, and pre-drilled first. Any questions, just let me know.
-Tom
Anode Question, since it's that time of year!
For 48DA's with V-drives:
This is what I've got so far:
Qty. 1 - 406 Transom Mount Anode (5" between holes)
Qty. 2 - Trim Tab Anode R-3HA - 4" diameter (increasing from last years R-3A 3 3/4 dia since they were toast when hauled out)
Qty. 4 - Teardrop T-20a (Hydraulic Swim Platform)
Qty. 2 - X-9 2" shaft anodes
Bow Thruster - ??? Can't find one yet, anyone out there have any advice? My joystick says vetus, but no other clues to work off of.
This year I've decided to give up the zinc and go with all aluminum anodes, I'm 100% saltwater use and from everything I see online they are better. Anyone out there confirm this? Supposedly when the zinc turns white on the outside, they stop working, my transom anode was all white and in pretty good shape at time of hauling, which concerns me.
https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/zinc-and-aluminum-sacrificial-anodes
Does anyone have storage of any sort under their captains chair?
V-Drive owners, Is anyone else having any issues with the load % differences? Just had the boat splashed this past weekend, at 2300 RPM's I was 23.5 knots, port engine 19.8gph, 69% load, stbd engine 17.5gph, 57% load. I was able to turn 2675 RPM WOT both engines at about 29 knots. The port engine load and fuel burn is significantly higher at all RPM's. ALL filters have just been replaced, etc. Fresh aftercooler service, WTF?! I'm def using more fuel on port side tank too, so I know it can't just be a sensor.
I found 2 other threads online where others have had the same issue, apparently Sea Ray may have made the port prop 1/2 degree less pitch to compensate for this 'anomaly' of port side v-drive that must turn 'backwards' in theory thus working harder? When owners send their props out to be serviced, like I just did, they come back matching, thus creating the issue?
Can anyone relate or share their knowledge?
V-Drive owners, Is anyone else having any issues with the load % differences? Just had the boat splashed this past weekend, at 2300 RPM's I was 23.5 knots, port engine 19.8gph, 69% load, stbd engine 17.5gph, 57% load. I was able to turn 2675 RPM WOT both engines at about 29 knots. The port engine load and fuel burn is significantly higher at all RPM's. ALL filters have just been replaced, etc. Fresh aftercooler service, WTF?! I'm def using more fuel on port side tank too, so I know it can't just be a sensor.
I found 2 other threads online where others have had the same issue, apparently Sea Ray may have made the port prop 1/2 degree less pitch to compensate for this 'anomaly' of port side v-drive that must turn 'backwards' in theory thus working harder? When owners send their props out to be serviced, like I just did, they come back matching, thus creating the issue?
Can anyone relate or share their knowledge?