Preventative recomendations

Mike sandor

Active Member
Jul 28, 2017
175
Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Boat Info
2007 320 Sundancer
Twin 496. Bravo 3
2018 3500 Chevy, Loadmaster trailer
Raymarine Axiom, Quantum 2
Engines
496 Mercruiser/Bravo III drives
I am looking for some advise regarding recomended service on our new to us
2007 320 sundancer. 219 hours. Bravo 111. We just purchased the boat this winter. It was surveyed and sea trialed. No major issues. A technician at the marina where we will slip this boat recomended that we do a complete p.m. Replace all bellows, seals, gimbal bearing, water intakes, shifting cables, trim switches and impellers.
What are your thoughts on this list being a bit to agressive? I agree with all the seals, bellows, impellers but I am a bit skeptable on the shifting cables as there is no report of shifting issues. Also, the gimbal bearing, yes, inspect and check alignment, but just to replace for the sake of replacing has got me wondering. 219 hours just seems light to me to warrent replacement of many of these items. Thoughts?
Thanks, Mike
 
Agreed on the bearing, if it checks out ok I'd hold off on that.

The other items make sense. You should do the shift cable at the same time as the bellows because the bellows have to come off to do it, and the cables are not very expensive. If the shift bellow was leaking at all the cable won't be far behind for replacement anyways, and then everything would have to come apart. Have them check the through transom water pickup tube while it's all apart for "bravoitis"
 
For me...you are pulling the drive for the bellows...the gimbal bearing is not expensive and the drive must come off for that as well. Why not do it as well to establish your baseline?

Bennett
 
If you are doing a bellows replacement job, the shift cables and trim senders are usually at EOL or not far behind and you don't want to take things apart again to replace them on their own.

Seals - not sure what he means by that, the seals in an outdrive would not be considered a maintenance item, if you are replacing seals it is because you have a problem with gear oil leaking somewhere.

Gimbal Bearing - I know it's a cheap / easy thing to replace while you are doing the bellows (can actually replace it anytime just by removing the outdrive), but if it is greased properly and has never gotten water in it, it will last the life of the engine. I personally have replaced bellows, shift cables, trim senders, but never a gimbal bearing.

My opinion here is give everything a good inspection (pull the drive!) and check the alignment. Make you decision about replacing this stuff on that inspection. If the bellows are original on a 2007 then you are in the range of needing to replace them - maybe now, but they could still have some service left. A lot depends on how the boat was used - salt water/fresh? Stored in or out of the water, year around etc? My bellows lasted 15yrs and still were not in bad shape, my shift cable bellows started leaking and that is what prompted me to do the job (my boat is freshwater and dry stored). You are looking at @ $1500 per drive for this work, that would make me think it over and plan a little bit. Don't misunderstand, I am all about maintenance, just not unnecessary maintenance.
 
It also depends on what maintenance records came with the boat. "re-commissioning" involves establishing a maintenance base-line so you know what to plan for in the future. Any periodic maintenance item that is NOT called out in the available maintenance record is a good candidate for immediate attention.

On top of that there are opportunistic items to consider. For example replacing the shift cables since you have the bellows off already, as @BillK2632 mentioned.
 
You don't need to remove bellows to do a lower shift cable on a B3. If you do need bellows, that would be a good time to do the trim senders while the bell housing is off, rotting wires are the weak link with them. Gimbell bearing could last the life of the engine/drive if greased on a regular schedule. Def. do your water pump impellers

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Personally unless it came up on your survey or you know something isn't right..... I would wait for at least a season to get to know your new boat and explore a few things. Then you can decide before you winterize to get some maintenance done at the same time.
 
I would agree with pull the drive, inspect, align and then decide...definitely all filters and impellers and use it for the season if nothing looks suspicious
 
I have just done most of that work myself on my 240 with Bravo 3, there is a new type water inlet hose that is better at stopping the restriction of cooling water thru the transom due to 'bravoitis' may be a good idea to ask your mechanic to fit that type if you get it done. Part No. 32-8M0090859
 
IMG_1975.JPG Would anybody by chance have the center line dimensions for the shifter cable end adjustment tool # N-189810-A? I have not pulled the cable off yet, I could measure the existing and make the tool according to those dimensions but would like to verify they are correct. Also, anyone know the thickness of the shift cable spacer tool # N-189810-B. It apears to be .250 thick but again, I just want to be sure. I would be willing to make you a set in return for the info. Of course, if you got the info, you probably have the tool...da..
Thanks, Mike
 
.250 is correct. I've never needed the other tool to replace the cable. Put the drive and shifter both in neutral and tighten down that little square nut. The barrel adjuster that's on the new cable is good to go out of the box.
 
I removed the gimbal bearing last night and it is sealed.
The replacement that came with the Mercruiser repair kit is non greasable as well. When I called them on it they said all new ones are non greasable. Greased for life, unfortunately, that life can be pretty short.
 
Reading thru the maintenance manual, it's stated that the lower units will not go "up" unless the ignition switchs are on.
I checking the operation and neither the starboard or port side go up using the trim switchs. The trailer switch does bring them both up. Odd that both sending units would be bad. Anyone see this problem?
 
My drive trims up/down and the trailer button works with or without the key on, as long as the batteries are switched on.

1. do you have the drives trimmed up pas the limit? In the case the trim down button would work, but not the trim up button.
2. if the trim buttons don't work up or down, but the trailer button does work, then the problem is with the trim limit switch (puck on port side of outdrive). Did you replace or remove these these with the other drive work? If so they need to be adjusted. If you did not replace them, it's possible they are bad from cracked wiring or corrosion - but unlikely they both went "bad" at the same time.
 
My drive trims up/down and the trailer button works with or without the key on, as long as the batteries are switched on.

1. do you have the drives trimmed up pas the limit? In the case the trim down button would work, but not the trim up button.
2. if the trim buttons don't work up or down, but the trailer button does work, then the problem is with the trim limit switch (puck on port side of outdrive). Did you replace or remove these these with the other drive work? If so they need to be adjusted. If you did not replace them, it's possible they are bad from cracked wiring or corrosion - but unlikely they both went "bad" at the same time.
Thanks for the reply. I intended to replace both the trim limit and level switches on both drives while performing all the other service items. It is odd that both drives don't trim up which leads me to think I am doing something wrong. I can only check the starboard side as the port side unit has been removed. I will test the switches this evening.
 
Thanks for the reply. I intended to replace both the trim limit and level switches on both drives while performing all the other service items. It is odd that both drives don't trim up which leads me to think I am doing something wrong. I can only check the starboard side as the port side unit has been removed. I will test the switches this evening.
Well, not only do no the breaker and key switch for the ignition need to be on, the rocker switch for the engine start on the dash does as well. The trim works as it should. Replacing the trim switches was pretty straight forward. Replacing the fresh water intake tube was a real pain. I hate when the plastic wire ties are not cut flush......sharp as razers!
 
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As a follow up to this: bought the boat this past winter, had a survey. Marine Max gave me the service records. I
planned on replacing all bellows, seals gimbal bearing, lower shift cable, water pickup tube, impellers, etc. I pulled the port lower unit and every thing looking in top shape but considering that I had the lower unit pulled, I replaced the items. Now, considering time was running out as I was a few days from pulling the boat north to the marina, plus the service history stated both drives we serviced at the same time, not many hours before I bought the boat, plus the port side looked like new, I decided to service the starboard side next year. Good intensions but it turned out to be the wrong decision. When I put the boat in the water the first time, I heard a slightly differant sound coming from the startboard side. Also heard a slight clicking sound at idle when turning the wheel left and right. It got my attention but decided to run the boat. After parked the boat in her slip, the following days, I noticed the bilge running ocasionally. Needles to say, it had my attention. Continued to used the boat for a few weeks, but the noise got louder to the point where the wife comented on it. I couldn't stand it any longer and pulled the boat out. In the marina parking lot, I pulled the lower unit, as soon as I broke the seal, I could smell it. The bellows had water, the bearing was totally shot. Spent the day rebuilding.
Hot as hell, on the hard. Finished it up and that is when murphy's law hit me. When I replaced the water pick up tube, while installing the tapered sleeve in the hose at the gimbal housing, The hose spun while tightening the sleeve, effectively pinching off the water flow. Didn't find that until I put the boat in the water and she promptly overheated. Pulled the boat again, checked everything for blockage at the motor, no problems, should have checked the hose first as soon as I raised the lower unit, put my hand on the hose I could feel the twist. After I rolled it back and checked it with muffs, I promptly kicked myself in the ass for these self inflicted issues, the boat is running like a swiss clock. All I hear is the purr of those 496 motors!
 
Sorry to hear of the problem, but nice work getting it straightened out. The tent is a good idea, I have thought about getting one of those for when I work on my boat on the racks at the marina. There is great satisfaction in getting a job like this done yourself.
 

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