Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Lazy Daze said:
If you are 100% positive that it's lake water, then the sources could be... drain plug, transom assemblies, bellows, thru-hull fittings such as transducer or seacocks. Of course, this is barring any type of hole in the hull, which would likely be obvious.

The way to figure it out is no different for this boat than any other boat... start with a completely dry bilge and observe closely. Paper towels in key areas, for example, can help.

Paul, it is not normal to have water in your bilge. In some cases it's a "no big deal" thing, but in other cases it could be a bigger problem that's just starting. There's LOT'S of threads about determining whether the source is raw water, rain water or even a boat system that's leaking. Do a search for those - lot's lot's of info already out there. Heck, there might even be info somewhere in this thread.
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Thanks Dennis, the boat is new to me, and I plan to eventually keep a dry bilge, just need to work the process. I appreciate your thoughts and feedback and will keep the thread posted with what I find. Going to get it dry tonight and put paper towels under the transom assemblies and at the drain plug to see if I can find a correlation.

John
 
stg099 said:
Thanks Dennis, the boat is new to me, and I plan to eventually keep a dry bilge, just need to work the process. I appreciate your thoughts and feedback and will keep the thread posted with what I find. Going to get it dry tonight and put paper towels under the transom assemblies and at the drain plug to see if I can find a correlation.

John
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You should also place some towels around the water heater and the water pump in case it's coming from your freshwater system.
 
How often do you clean your flame arrestor?

Also unrelated to engines I just priced out getting the halon system replaced with the new and compliant Sea Fire manual/automatic system total installed price is $850. The install takes about 1.5 hours (the extinguisher is larger and requires new brackets.
 
Lazy Daze said:
If you are 100% positive that it's lake water, then the sources could be... drain plug, transom assemblies, bellows, thru-hull fittings such as transducer or seacocks. Of course, this is barring any type of hole in the hull, which would likely be obvious.

The way to figure it out is no different for this boat than any other boat... start with a completely dry bilge and observe closely. Paper towels in key areas, for example, can help.

Paul, it is not normal to have water in your bilge. In some cases it's a "no big deal" thing, but in other cases it could be a bigger problem that's just starting. There's LOT'S of threads about determining whether the source is raw water, rain water or even a boat system that's leaking. Do a search for those - lot's and lot's of info already out there. Heck, there might even be info somewhere in this thread.
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Thank you Dennis, I did as you suggested, and believe that the leak is coming from the drain screw. I get about an ounce of water in the bilge when I take the boat out. Perhaps it needed to be tighter than I tightened it. I will have to wait until the boat is out of water to do so. should I put sealant around the threads?
 
paul hsu said:
Thank you Dennis, I did as you suggested, and believe that the leak is coming from the drain screw. I get about an ounce of water in the bilge when I take the boat out. Perhaps it needed to be tighter than I tightened it. I will have to wait until the boat is out of water to do so. should I put sealant around the threads?
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Why not just take a deep breath and go tighten it while it's in the water? :) No, sealant is not (shouldn't be) needed on the threads. Bronze is a soft metal and the pipe threads self seal. It also shouldn't need to be cranked super tight. More than snug, but don't go superman on it. Hopefully it just needs to be tightened and it's not the hull fitting. But do take note when you tighten it if the hull fitting seems to move/rotate a little.
 
Lazy Daze said:
If you are 100% positive that it's lake water, then the sources could be... drain plug, transom assemblies, bellows, thru-hull fittings such as transducer or seacocks. Of course, this is barring any type of hole in the hull, which would likely be obvious.

The way to figure it out is no different for this boat than any other boat... start with a completely dry bilge and observe closely. Paper towels in key areas, for example, can help.

Paul, it is not normal to have water in your bilge. In some cases it's a "no big deal" thing, but in other cases it could be a bigger problem that's just starting. There's LOT'S of threads about determining whether the source is raw water, rain water or even a boat system that's leaking. Do a search for those - lot's and lot's of info already out there. Heck, there might even be info somewhere in this thread.
Click to expand...


After some time and patience today putting paper towel all over the bilge, I’ve narrowed it down to the thru hull fitting up near the bilge pumps, huge relief compared to a transom leak. I was able to tighten the transducer at least and eight of a turn, so I’m hopeful that should slow down or stop any more water from getting into the bilge. For the few hours I was ther it remained bone dry and will check again tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Splashed our new to us 280 and took it over to the fuel dock to top off the tank. On the way back I got a low oil pressure alarm. Fortunately our marina has a good mercruiser tech and was on it immediately was as oil pressure sensor. Phew missed a big bullet here.
 
Captn TJ said:
Splashed our new to us 280 and took it over to the fuel dock to top off the tank. On the way back I got a low oil pressure alarm. Fortunately our marina has a good mercruiser tech and was on it immediately was as oil pressure sensor. Phew missed a big bullet here.
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That happened to me once when I was out on the lake. Smartcraft limited my rpm but as long as I ran hull speed there was no alarm. I had 40 miles to go, it was a boring ride, luckily it was nice out and lake was almost glass.
 
If its hard to move the sticks back n forth then i believe its the cable binding. I've seen people disconnect them at the motor and stuff them into a ziplock bag full of penetrant. Picture an I V bag hanging with your cable in it which gravity will force penetrant into the cable.
 
I am new to this type of boat, and I apologize if this is the wrong section for this question, but is there a better way to back the sundancer into a slip when there is a good wind? When I pull up to my slip I line up to reverse in the dock, the wind blows me off so I am no longer lined up, then as I reverse into the slip, the wind blows the bow over to the next boat. I would appreciate any tips!
 
paul hsu said:
I am new to this type of boat, and I apologize if this is the wrong section for this question, but is there a better way to back the sundancer into a slip when there is a good wind? When I pull up to my slip I line up to reverse in the dock, the wind blows me off so I am no longer lined up, then as I reverse into the slip, the wind blows the bow over to the next boat. I would appreciate any tips!
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Paul,

I always found the spring line to be your friend when docking. Generally the first line we grab and cleat on. Also there are a number of youtube videos on docking with twin sterndrives.
 
paul hsu said:
I am new to this type of boat, and I apologize if this is the wrong section for this question, but is there a better way to back the sundancer into a slip when there is a good wind? When I pull up to my slip I line up to reverse in the dock, the wind blows me off so I am no longer lined up, then as I reverse into the slip, the wind blows the bow over to the next boat. I would appreciate any tips!
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If there are pilings between boats don't be afraid to use them, pivot off them. Backing into the wind will give you some help do to the boats momentum. Get a line on the dock, midships line tends to work best but any line can help save the day once you learn to apply power against the line. You may not yet be exactly where you want to be but at least you have some control of the boat and that'll help you get there. Don't be afraid to call for a dockhand to meet you at your slip. As you're passing other slips and you know today will be a hard one don't be afraid to holler to a slip neighbor and ask them for some help coming in.
 
Woody said:
If there are pilings between boats don't be afraid to use them, pivot off them. Backing into the wind will give you some help do to the boats momentum. Get a line on the dock, midships line tends to work best but any line can help save the day once you learn to apply power against the line. You may not yet be exactly where you want to be but at least you have some control of the boat and that'll help you get there. Don't be afraid to call for a dockhand to meet you at your slip. As you're passing other slips and you know today will be a hard one don't be afraid to holler to a slip neighbor and ask them for some help coming in.
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thank you, no piling, just the neighbors boat. is it common to bounce against other boats? at low speeds, of course.
 
paul hsu said:
thank you, no piling, just the neighbors boat. is it common to bounce against other boats? at low speeds, of course.
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Sure boat operators loose control and bang into other boats but in no way should it be thought of as a thing acceptable to boating...it's not OK. Prepare for entering your slip before you get there. Hang some fenders so they might protect two boats that make contact. If a capable person is onboard put them on the bow with a fender that they can put between boats at the point of contact. Have the lines you intend to use in position and ready to use so you don't waste time once you get close to your dock.

I single hand my boat often. I get fenders, lines, or whatever I think I need ready before I enter a marina. Once you're inside is no time to think about doing those basic helpful things.

I don't know what your slip is like but if possible how about bow in, it'll be alot easier. Maybe you bow in on windy days and stern in on the good days. Just trying to throw out some options.
 
Thought I would newbie post here as well. I’ve had my 2007 280 Sundancer for a few days and am getting accustomed to it. I have had the nav lights, arch light, stereo on in the past but today I couldn’t seem to get any of them on today. I had power from the battery for everything else. What am I forgetting to do? I checked the fuses and nothing tripped. Thanks in advance. Photo of the buttons that aren’t lighting up.
 

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Chirider said:
Thought I would newbie post here as well. I’ve had my 2007 280 Sundancer for a few days and am getting accustomed to it. I have had the nav lights, arch light, stereo on in the past but today I couldn’t seem to get any of them on today. I had power from the battery for everything else. What am I forgetting to do? I checked the fuses and nothing tripped. Thanks in advance. Photo of the buttons that aren’t lighting up.
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The battery switch on the Portside should be switched to both. Portside #1 is engine Portside #2 is house and Portside both is engine and house. Starboard only has one selection and that is for the starboard engine
 
I’ll try both batteries. I am not certain I tried that. Thank you! Can I ask about that second switch next to the battery switch? Is there any other time besides engine starting that it should it be turned on? (I know not to turn it off whilst the engine is on.) I’d love to know what it actually does too if you don’t mind.
 
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