Official 330 Sundancer Thread

pretty much all the 330s ive seen have more of a "pure white" on the arch. the contrast is pretty stark. maybe you got lucky?
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Guys,
I have searched the posts and I have not seen the exact problem I'm experiencing. I have a 1997 330 DA with 7.4L V drives. The port engine expels water from the side exhaust just fine but the starboard does not, at idle or slow speeds. It seems most of the exhaust on starboard is being expelled through the underwater exhaust. At higher RPMs the starboard side exhaust is a trickle when the port side exhaust is blowing it out. Any ideas what is wrong?
 
Just purchased a 1998 330 Sundancer. Has original electronics (Raymarine loran and depth finder. Depth finder doesn’t work). I would like to replace them with an inexpensive GPS/fishfinder/map combo. Boat is on an inland lake so don’t really need radar. Any suggestions! Also how to swap out the transducer. Would also like recommendations on where to buy canvas. Thanks in advance. Great forum btw.
 
Just purchased a 1998 330 Sundancer. Has original electronics (Raymarine loran and depth finder. Depth finder doesn’t work). I would like to replace them with an inexpensive GPS/fishfinder/map combo. Boat is on an inland lake so don’t really need radar. Any suggestions! Also how to swap out the transducer. Would also like recommendations on where to buy canvas. Thanks in advance. Great forum btw.
Great Lakes Boat Top was the original manufacturer of your canvas. Call them up with the serial number of your boat and they can make replacement canvas for you.
 
I took apart my engine hatch lift piston yesterday. the hatch was coming up real slow. I opened up lubed it up and the bottom gear box was completely dry. Putting it back in today
 
I took apart my engine hatch lift piston yesterday. the hatch was coming up real slow. I opened up lubed it up and the bottom gear box was completely dry. Putting it back in today
Sounds like some preventative maintenance is order on my boat this spring. How do you access the gear box to open it up?
 
Sounds like some preventative maintenance is order on my boat this spring. How do you access the gear box to open it up?
It was pretty simple,
3/4 wrench and socket and cut the wires removes the pistons. 4 bolts on top and one more under the gearbox and the whole thing comes apart. it was all just dried up grease
 
It was pretty simple,
3/4 wrench and socket and cut the wires removes the pistons. 4 bolts on top and one more under the gearbox and the whole thing comes apart. it was all just dried up grease
 

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That is identical to what my vent lift looked like when I opened it up to try to save a buck.
 
Transducer installation on my 97 330DA:

So I decided to upgrade my transducer to a through hull bronze B60 from the shoot through Airmar P79. Not much room in the bilge so I had a dilemma of where to punch a new 2 3/8 hole in my boat. What I decided was to use the spot where the long dead Lowrance 3500 OEM depth sounder transducer was installed. The problem is that that one is smaller diameter. So i decided to drill the hole saw right dead center through the old transducer rather than trying to remove it first. Problem is you drill right into the ceramic element. So I swapped to a masonry bit and drilled through it. Then back to the hole saw, and slick as anything, drilled out a new hole, AND removed the old transducer in one step.

The rest of the install went great other than the difficulty getting the nut tight on the new one. I am going to have the marina's team ensure I have it tight enough this week. I think its pretty much tight, but they will make double sure.

In case anyone was wondering, the hull is almost 1" thick solid glass in that spot where those transducers are. No wonder the little P79 was only "OK" shooting through that glass. I think the new B60 will be much better.

(in case you are wondering, I have not yet upgraded my electronics, thus the B60 non-chirp transducer. Still use the C80/radar. It does what I need --- for now.)
 
I replaced mine in the spring. had to use a sawzal due to it spinning as I was trying to remove it. I used the airman with the water temp feature
 
Decided to go with shoot thru the hull. What kind of epoxy should I use? Should I build a little temporary frame to hold the epoxy to get it up on the shoulder of the transducer?
 
The unit is a Lowrance Elite-7 TI Med/High sonar. The transducer is the one that comes with it. Says it is 83/200,455/800.
 
The unit is a Lowrance Elite-7 TI Med/High sonar. The transducer is the one that comes with it. Says it is 83/200,455/800.
.

That is a CHIRP transducer that is not intended for in-hull use. It wont work properly shooting through the glass. Also you have a 17 degree deadrise hull so you would have to epoxy it at an angle to get it to work right. You may want to install a proper through hull or, if you want to use that one, you may want to mount it on the transom so you get the full features of it. You can use a "Stern Saver" to mount it so you don't have to drill holes in your boat. I used it it to install a Fish Hawk on my boat. Pic below:
 
Hmmm. I was assured by Lowrance tech support that it would work. Don’t really want wires out the back of the boat. What kind of transducer would work if not this one?
 

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